Summit, Cowles Mountain

Right behind the second most popular hike in San Diego, Iron Mountain, is the first most popular (cue drum roll) Cowles Mountain. If you even have a remote interest in hiking, or the outdoors, or are even somewhat athletic in that you move around because you are alive, or even if you’re the undead of some sort, chances are that you’ve heard about Cowles Mountain. Like Iron Mountain, Cowles Mountain is a popular hike. In fact, saying that it’s popular is like saying that the Interstate 5 through Los Angeles during rush hour is congested. It’s a classic understatement. As Cowles Mountain is located very close to the core of San Diego, there are people on this trail at all hours. I have been on this trail at all hours of the day and night, and frankly, as I said about Iron Mountain, I defy you to find a time when people are not on the trail.

But here’s the thing about Cowles Mountain. I’m not sure it’s really a mountain. Yes, I know that technically, at 1,591 feet above sea level, it qualifies as a “mountain”, and yes, I know that it is one of the “larger” peaks in the city proper, but to me, it just feels like a hill. My mind quails to count Cowles as a mountain, when it seems like a hill compared to some of the bigger peaks in the surrounding region within an hour or two hour drive. To me, it seems a little bit like that movie – The Englishman Who Went Up a Hill But Came Down a Mountain (yes, I know – obscure movie reference of the month, if not year), and in this sense, Cowles Mountain is San Diego’s “mountain”, so it’s best for me not to claim that it’s not or that it’s mountain-ness should be diminished. I also willingly concede that if you’re working yourself into shape, or are young, old, or have some other reason, it may seem like Mt. Everest to you, in which case, it is worthy of the name; but to me, it seems like Cowles Hill – but then, who cares what I think, because I don’t get to name things whatsoever.

Directions: The best way, and the most popular way to head up Cowles Mountain is the Western approach, which starts from the Mission Trails Regional Park parking lot at the intersection of Golfcrest and Navajo. (http://www.mtrp.org/directions.asp?idno=2) Do note that as this is a very popular hike, the lot may be full, at which point, you may have to park on the street; but do not worry, there is ample street parking. From the parking lot, the trailhead is clearly marked, and is conveniently located next to a bathroom. The trail immediately starts heading uphill, as it has nine hundred and thirty-three (933) feet of elevation gain. The majority of the trail is switchbacks heading toward the summit, and in my opinion, given the amount of traffic that the trail gets, the trail is well maintained. After one and one half miles (1.5), you will find yourself at the summit, with a great 360 degree view of the city of San Diego. At this point, you can continue along the Eastern side of the mountain further into Mission Trails park proper; or like most people, turn around and head back down for an easy, roundtrip hike of three (3) miles.

 Winter Solstice, Cowles Mountain Summit, 2011

I rate this as an easy hike despite the elevation gain based on two factors: 1) the amount and variety of people hiking the mountain, from young to old; and 2) the fact that people regularly run the mountain on a daily basis; sometimes with weights. However, difficulty is subjective, and if you are new to hiking, you may find it steep; if that is the case, this is a great introductory hike, and a great introduction to hiking in San Diego because of the view and the comraderie you will experience on the trail.

Tips: If you’re running the trail, like I do at times, be prepared to come to a screeching halt or stop on numerous occasions, as the trail does get congested, and there are blind corners. Be considerate, watch your speed, and don’t run over people. Additionally, every December Mission Trails Regional Park Guides lead a great hike for the winter solstice, which is a fun experience for all ages, provided you can get up early enough to hike the mountain! (http://www.mtrp.org/events.asp?actiontype=showdate&the_date=12/21/2011) And, as with any hike, do be sure to take water.

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.mtrp.org/pop_map_details.asp?area_idno=0&habitat_idno=0&trail_idno=3, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowles_Mountain, http://www.100peaks.com/2009/09/01/cowles-mountain-peak-7/, http://www.yelp.com/biz/cowles-mountain-san-diego

Just your friendly greeting sign at the trailhead.

The third confession that I have for my readers this week is not a confession, it’s a fact. Fact: Iron Mountain is the second most popular hike within the confines of San Diego County. The only thing that makes Iron Mountain the second most popular hike within the county is that at six miles roundtrip, it is a big longer than the first most popular hike within the county, Cowles Mountain. If you are looking for solitude on your hike, do not hike Iron Mountain. Well, ok, I shouldn’t say that. If you hike Iron Mountain in the middle of the night or on a rare rainy, cold day in San Diego, you might be alone on the trail. You might. Even under those conditions, I’d still assume that you’d run into at least one person. Iron Mountain is the second largest peak in the city of San Diego proper at 2,696 feet; and it is in the portion of the county with a number of hiking trails, such as the Goodan Ranch-Sycamore Canyon Preserve, and Woodson Mountain. Unlike Woodson, I’d recommend Iron Mountain as a hike, as it’s a great hike or jog; and when you get to the summit, you will have great unobstructed views of the surrounding area; however, do bear in mind that if you are indeed seeking solitude, this is not the hike for you.

 Looking up toward the summit of Iron Mountain

Directions:  The parking lot for Iron Mountain is located almost exactly at the junction of CA-67 and Poway Road. By almost exactly, I mean that the lot is located a smidgen South of the junction, but for all intents and purposes, it is at that spot. If you are at that T-intersection facing East, you will be able to see it, and the horde of people around it. A quick note about the lot: back in the day, one had to risk life and limb crossing the CA-67 as there was no “official” parking; but occasionally, the lot does fill up on warm weekends. If this is the case, there is parking across the road, or on the side of the road; but do take care crossing the CA-67.

The hike is a fairly simple out-and-back route; from the lot, one heads out under a tree-lined canopy, and then across a stretch of meadow for the only flat terrain of the hike.

At approximately three quarters of a mile, the trail curves down slightly, before heading up into the first sections of switchbacks. At this point, you will start to gain some elevation before ending up at a T-junction. At this point, if you are heading for the peak, you will want to turn right (South) on the well-signed and marked trail. From this point, the trail winds around the backside of the mountain, giving you good views of Eastern San Diego County, before a series of switchbacks provide you with most of the elevation gain, and leave you on the summit. From the summit, you will have a great three-hundred and sixty degree of the county, and on a very clear day, you can indeed see the ocean. Once you are done on the summit, follow the trail back to the parking lot. I would rate this as an excellent moderate hike, one that will challenge a beginner hiker, and one that will keep an experienced hiker at least interested. Plus, there’s a good view at the summit.

A Word About Distance: As this is the second most popular hike in San Diego county, one would think that the distance on the hike would be cut and dry. Well, one would be wrong. I’ve hiked Iron Mountain more times than I can count, and I find the mileage to always be consistently from 5.6 to 5.8 miles roundtrip. Yet, as noted above, there’s a sign at the beginning of the trail stating that it is 3.5 miles to the summit; and if you look at the links below, you will find a variety of mileages from 4.8 to 6.63 miles roundtrip. Based on my experience, I’m going to stand by my mileage totals, which were originally based out of Jerry Schad’s Afoot and Afield, and confirmed by my GPS. If anyone is overly concerned about the mileage issue, they can write me, and either agree, or tell me that I’m an idiot. I suspect the different mileages are from people adding or subtracting portions to the hike, but that’s just my suspicion.

Tips: If you are doing this hike in summertime, or a warm fall day in the fall, do bring plenty of water. Most of the hike is exposed, and it does get quite hot  - into the 90’s or higher during those times. As you will be heading uphill for a fair portion of the hike and exerting yourself, the risk of dehydration at those times is high. Bringing water is a good idea in general, however! Also, there’s a telescope and mailbox at the summit which are things that are not usually seen atop mountains. My last tip is something I discussed months ago: there’s plenty of great scenery around, especially at the Goodan Ranch-Sycamore Canyon Preserve. If you’re looking to get out and beat the crowds, this is the spot for you: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/11/30/goodan-ranchsycamore-canyon-preserve-cardiac-hill-to-ridge-t.html . If not, enjoy the hike!

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.100peaks.com/2009/06/24/first-peak-completed-iron-mountain/, http://www.localhikes.com/Hikes/IronMtn_7320.asp, http://www.sdctc.com/san-diego-trails-iron-mountain, http://www.yelp.com/biz/iron-mountain-poway

Woodson Mountain from the CA-67 Eastern Approach

True confessions week on lastadventurer.com continues today with my second confession: I’m not a fan of the hike heading up the Eastern side of Woodson Mountain (a/k/a Mt. Woodson) in San Diego County. Perhaps I’ve done the hike too many times. Perhaps it’s because whenever I’ve done the hike, there’s tons of people on the trail. Or perhaps, it’s just difficult for me to get behind a hike that heads up an asphalt and dirt road and ends at a cluster of antennas. But, despite my opinion, Woodson remains a popular hike within the county, which confounds me, as San Diego has so many hikes that have better views, better locations, and don’t end with the aforementioned cluster of antennas. In my mind, it’s almost as if the antennas are emitting some sort of mind control signal to the surrounding county, “Cooooooooooome, cliiiiiimb Woodson.”  Perhaps I’m onto something here: I should start warning the public not to climb Woodson from the Eastern approach because the pod people will get them at the top. That’s right – you heard it here first. Don’t climb Woodson – it’s controlled by pod people (and rattlesnakes)!!!

 Woodson Mountain, Facing West, near the summit.

Directions (If you’re willing to take the risk):  The Eastern approach starts from the CA-67; I usually take Poway Road East to the junction with the CA-67 and from this point, the trailhead is three miles to the North. If you are not following this route, you want to take the CA-67 until it intersects with Hedy Drive. At this point, you should look for parking, either on the East side of the CA-67 (near Hedy Drive) or on the West side of the road near Mt. Woodson Road. I guarantee that there will be parked cars on either side of the road to further aid you in finding the location. Once you have parked, take care crossing the CA-67 if you are on the East side, and head to the trailhead which is well-marked, trodden and easy to follow near Mt. Woodson Road.

From the beginning of the hike, you will be on a well graded road that is paved for a majority of the time. The road/track/trail ascends somewhat steeply over the course of 1.8 miles and eventually reaches the summit of the mountain. In my opinion, the best portions of the hike are at or around three-quarters of a mile to the summit, when you pass a number of interesting free standing boulders. Should it not be too hot, these are a great spot to practice rock climbing and or bouldering. If it is spring or summertime, do keep an eye out for rattlesnakes in and around the boulders, as it seems to be an extraordinarily popular spot for them in my experience. Once you are past the boulders, you will be at the summit which has lots of antennas, and on clear days, an average view of the ocean and the surrounding area. (Sorry people, I’m just not buying that this is one of the best views in the county, even on bluebird days). From the top, it’s 1.8 miles back down to the road, for a roundtrip distance of 3.8 miles.

 A bit more of that Woodson Mountain panorama

Tips: My main tip is that unless you absolutely have to do this hike, hike somewhere else. Alright, that’s a bit harsh. I just think that there are better places to head in the county where you can see better views with less people, such as Corte Madera, Mt. Lawson, Stonewall Peak, Cuyamaca Peak, or heck, even Iron Mountain. But, on the plus side, Woodson Mountain is a great hike for a quick morning jaunt, and is a great way to get into the wilderness when you are pressed for time. The Eastern Route is also a great spot to bring up climbing mats for bouldering; and is a great spot for a quick, steep trail run that will test your hill climbing ability. In the summer, do bring a lot of water as the Eastern side is very exposed, and gets hot fast; and do watch for the aforementioned rattlesnakes. Last, do note that the “potato chip” rock is not at the summit of the mountain, but extends from a grouping of rocks off the trail.

So, if the pod people have persuaded you to go here and you have no other choice – see you on the trail!

More Information:  http://www.summitpost.org/woodson-mountain/282613, http://www.100peaks.com/2009/07/28/woodson-mountain-peak-5/,   http://www.sandiegoasap.com/mt-woodson.html

Whitewater River, looking up Whitewater Canyon

This week on lastadventurer.com, true confessions. Confession number one: I have been going back and forth from Southern California to the Coachella Valley region and areas North of it for over twenty years off and on. Until about a month ago, I had no idea that there was an area of pristine flood plain, containing miles of hiking trails, and great views of the San Gorgonio Wilderness in the area. No. Idea. At. All. I feel at this point that there should almost be some sort of demerits taken against my wilderness specialist card. After all, the area I’m talking about is part of the Pacific Crest Trail (“PCT”) – how could I miss this? However, it’s better to arrive at the party late than not arrive at all.

Yes, what I am talking about is the Whitewater Preserve, an area of over 2,826 acres that is owned by the Wildlands Conservancy. The region is situated directly on the floodplain of the Whitewater River, and is surrounded by large swaths of land owned by the Bureau of Land Management and the San Gorgonio Wilderness, providing one large area to explore, and one colossal wildlife corridor. The Wildlands Conservancy holds a number of pieces of land within California, and in my experience, each of them are well managed, well maintained, and well protected, something that is definitely needed with the Department of Parks and Recreation in California facing continuing budget cuts. Due to time constraints, I didn’t get as far out into the backcountry as I would have wished, but I did get out on the Canyon View Loop trail, which leaves directly from the picnic area/Ranger Station/interpretive center, and in my opinion, provides a great scenic overview of the preserve for the first time visitor.

Looking at the Ridgeline of Whitewater Canyon

 Directions: To enter the Whitewater Preserve, exit the I-10 at the Whitewater exit, and head North up the Whitewater Canyon Road for five miles until the road ends. There is a parking lot at the end of the road, but do note that the area is popular for picnics as well as hiking, and the lot does fill up. From the parking lot, the trailhead is directly to the North, and is the main jumping off point for all of the hikes into the backcountry. The trail is well marked from the beginning, and leads past a large boulder with mileage distances along the PCT as well as the preserve. After about a half mile (.5), you will see a turnoff to the West, which will lead you over the Whitewater River on a well maintained footbridge.

As 2012 has been a dry year for Southern California, the water was well below the bridge; but I suspect that in a wet year, the river could be difficult to cross; something you should keep in mind depending on when you are visiting. Once across the bridge, the trail heads through some brush before heading uphill through some switchbacks to the top of the ridge, where the Canyon Loop Trail is again well signed. From here, you can see some great views of the canyon as you head South before ultimately looping back around to the Ranger station and parking lot. Roundtrip, this hike will be about three and a half miles (3.5), and I would rate it as easy and suitable for all ages. Do note that there is indeed some uphill portions; but overall, the hike is not overly strenuous.

 Whitewater Canyon

Tips: There’s a secret river and park near Palm Springs! What more do you want? Ok, let’s go for bonus tips: due to the fact that the preserve is connected to large swaths of backcountry, it is a wildlife corridor for many animals, including black bears which do head into the canyon on a regular basis. From my observations, it’s also a great place to view animals, as I saw plenty of small animals in the area during the middle of the day. Last, if you don’t feel like hiking, it’s a great place to sit back and relax among the trout ponds and river to beat the desert heat.

See you on the trail!

More Information:

http://www.wildlandsconservancy.org/maps/Whitewater%20Canyon%20Preserve%20Map.pdf, http://www.wildlandsconservancy.org/maps/wwtm21610.pdf, http://www.wildlandsconservancy.org/preserve_whitewater.html, http://www.yelp.com/biz/whitewater-preserve-white-water, http://calitravelgirl.wordpress.com/2011/04/21/whitewater-preserves-canyon-view-loop-trail-has-views-to-die-for/#comments

View of San Jacinto from the "top" of the Bump-N-Grind Trail

Sometimes, when you’re on the road, you find locations that are great hikes, but since you’re not a local, you may end up calling the location by a new name that has no relation to the old or actual name. Case in point: for years, I’ve been visiting Palm Desert. About ten years ago, I got tired of running around the same flat streets, and while running by the Target in Palm Desert, I saw people climbing a hill. I figured, “Hey, that looks like some good variety, not too tough, I’ll hit that up tomorrow”. Needless to say, when I “hit it up” the next day, I found that it was a lot more strenuous than, “not too tough” (more on that later), but I still had a great time. I found it so enjoyable that every time I was in Palm Desert after that, I went up and around it. All this time, I thought it was called the “Painter’s Path” trail, because I thought I had seen a sign near Highway 111 at the start that said that.

When I went to do a little research to write this piece about the hike, I found that it is called “The Bump-n-Grind” trail, “Dog Poo Trail”, “Patton Trail”, or “Desert Drive Trail”, but more often than not, “The Bump-n-Grind”. At first I was in denial - surely, I had a picture of the trailhead sign that proved I was right. Nope. No pictures of that purported sign. Then, I thought that it was an isolated nickname – surely, there was another name for it that confirmed I was right. Nope. Bump-n-Grind seemed to be chapter approved by locals. At this point, while bemused – I had been telling people about this hike for years – “you go up over behind the Target”, and calling it by my name, it was clear that I was wrong. Then again, a hike by any name is surely better than no hike at all?

Directions: Park in the Target parking lot right off Highway 111 in Palm Desert (http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/store_details.jsp?&storeNumber=940&referringURL=%2Fsite%2Fen%2Fspot%2Fstate_results.jsp%3Fstate%3DCA). The trail leaves off the back of the parking lot and is readily apparent; there is also an access point slightly North of the Target entrance up Highway 111 past the Tilted Kilt. Either way, be prepared for a short but very steep ascent that heads up for about  ~1000 vertical feet before dead-ending at a spot in the mid-foothills that overlooks the Coachella Valley, and all of Palm Desert below. From the dead-end spot, there are other foot trails that head up further into the foothills, but they are not “approved” trails or routes. From the dead-end, the hike heads back down the hill to the parking lot. Total distance: a little over two miles roundtrip.

Tips: Did I mention above that I thought it’d be not too tough, but was surprised? Yeah, that’s right. It’s steeeeeeeeeeeep. Think about it: you start at around ~200 feet and you go up to ~1250 feet in a little over a mile. That’s steep. But fun! If you’re going to run it, it’s a leg burner. If you’re going to walk it, it’s still a burner. Is it doable? For sure, there will likely be tons of people on it. Enjoy it, and the view. Do bring water – it’s the desert. Don’t head up midday in the dead heat of summer, unless you can really handle that 110 degree heat and physical exertion. Do call it what you will, but do know that it is officially the “Bump-N-Grind”.

See you on the trail! 

More Information: http://www.hiking-in-ps.com/bumpngrind.php, http://www.yelp.com/biz/bump-and-grind-trail-mike-schuler-trail-head-palm-desert

Start of the La Orilla Trail, San Elijo Reserve

Enclaves! San Diego is full of wilderness enclaves. You just need to know where to look. A couple months ago, I talked about Crest Canyon (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/11/28/crest-canyon.html), and how it’s a great secret spot to hike or run. A couple miles up the road, there’s another great spot for a calming walk or trail run next to the San Elijo Lagoon. This lagoon is the keystone of the San Elijo Lagoon Reserve, which features over seven miles of hiking trails, and is slightly North of Solana Beach, and slightly South of Cardiff.

Directions: From Interstate 5, exit Lomas Santa Fe, and head East to Highland Road (this road will be marked by a 4-Way Stop Sign). On Highland, turn left. Follow Highland East/North-east for a short while; and then turn left (North) onto El Camino Real. The parking lot for the trailhead will be on the West side of the road slightly before a hairpin turn. (The Reserve provides a good set of directions on their webpage, which I’ve placed below). From the parking area, it is several feet to the start of the trail. To me, the first portion of the trail is like entering a mystical forest with its low hanging cottonwood branches. Shortly up the trail (less than .10 miles), you will find a hollowed out area with tree branches covering it; it looks like a home to an unknown animal – or a gateway to another land.

After that, you will be entering the riparian area of the trail, where you will see cattails, and if it’s been a wet year – or if it’s recently rained, like it had the other day when I hiked this trail, you’ll see standing water in La Orilla Creek. If it’s dry – or hasn’t rained, the only water you’re likely to see is the Lagoon itself.

Riparian Portions of the La Orilla Trail The trail then meanders up some very slight hills, and then at .45 miles, arrives at the easement for the power lines above. At this point, you’ll have a variety of options – you can turn off onto some of the San Elijo Lagoon trails leading back into Solana Beach or you can continue West. Should you continue west, you’ll pass some free standing trees, some of which are Torrey Pines, and ultimately head along the Lagoon itself, under the Interstate 5, and toward the Coast. If you follow the trail to its end, you will arrive at the train tracks next to the Coast Highway just North of Solana Beach, which is directly across from Cardiff State Beach. The total distance from the trailhead to the Coast is 3.5 miles, one way, and is by and large, very flat. If you don’t decide to relax on the beach for a bit, the total round trip distance of this hike (or run) is seven miles. This trail is easy, and is for hikers of all skill levels.

Tips: At times, you will see people riding horses in and around the La Orilla trail near the El Camino Trailhead. If you are running the trail, be aware – and respectful of riders, so as not to dart around a corner, which will likely startle the horse(s). The section of trail that traverses under the Interstate 5 also has a narrow section of bridge; and if you are not paying attention, or you slip when running over it, you will end up in the Lagoon, and you will get wet. One last cautionary note about getting wet: when it rains, the trail becomes muddy in some places; and slippery in other places due to the high sand/clay content of the soil, and should you slip – you will get muddy and wet. Other than that, even though the area is fairly urban, this is a good spot to see deer, and sometimes, coyotes!

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.sanelijo.org/la_orilla.htm, http://www.sanelijo.org/explore-seven-miles-trails-san-elijo-lagoon-ecological-reserve, http://www.sanelijo.org/sites/sanelijo.org/files/Publications/Trailguides/laorilla.pdf, http://sandiegooutdoorguide.com/component/content/article/1326-la-orilla-trail, http://parks.ca.gov/?page_id=656

Looking down the Partington Cove Trail

Big Sur. It’s one of those mythic places of California that everyone knows nothing and everything about. It’s a place of hidden beaches; stunning views where the land drops off into the ocean; and hairpin turns on the Cabrillo Highway (California Route 1). It’s a place of sun and fog and sudden winds; of wild animals, expected and unexpected; authors; and large mansions from a different era. The thing about Big Sur that no one ever talks about is the potential for traffic, and traffic jams. It almost seems incomprehensible that this remote and pristine area would have the same problems as say, downtown Los Angeles until you think about it rationally.

Bridge over Partington Creek

Most of the route through Big Sur, California Route 1 is full of hairpin curves, broken only by occasional bridges, lonely straightaways, steep coastal drop-offs, and is almost always a two-lane road. And, if you add in the key variable: beautiful ocean-front scenery, what you are left with is an equation that looks like this: two-lane road + beautiful scenery + tourists staring at said scenery = traffic jams and general slowing. (This is to say nothing of areas where road construction is currently ongoing as of 2012, where the two lane road becomes a one-lane road). Frankly, there’s actually nothing wrong with this situation – California Route 1 should be driven slowly to absorb the scenery; it’s just that one has to be prepared to view the country slowly. And, part and parcel of viewing the area slowly is knowing where to stop and explore. In this respect, the Partington Cove Trail is one of the best and easiest places to explore.

 Directions: While the trail isn’t marked, you’re going to want to look for a metal gate on the West side of Highway 1 – chances are there will be a fair amount of cars on either side of the road pulled out to hike the trail. The gate is roughly two (2) miles North of the entrance to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park; or roughly five (5) miles South of the Nepanthe Restaurant/Store complex. If you park on the East side, take care crossing the Highway 1, as there are frequent distracted drivers not looking for pedestrians.

From the metal gate, the trail is wide and flat down to the coast. Once you are down the hill, you will be by an interpretive kiosk, where the trail will fork off into three separate directions. The first will take you down towards a small cove where the trail dead-ends. The second will take you over a wooden bridge, through a forested grove, and through the tunnel to the remains of the pier at Partington Cove. The third will take you upstream along the Partington Creek. I’d recommend that one heads down to the smaller cove, before heading back to the trail junction and walking through the tunnel down to Partington Cove. At the cove, there’s a bench where you can watch the waves; and plenty of rocks to scramble around on depending on how high the tide is. (http://youtu.be/h9vayVct56U) If you’re looking around, you can also find the old eyebolts and moorings from the pier that used to exist here. Once you’re done exploring the area, return the way you came. While the hill isn’t that steep, this is where you will get somewhat of a workout. Roundtrip, you are looking at a little bit over one (1) mile.

 Partington Cove region

Tips: The tunnel through the rock to the old pier was initially used to carry out tanbark by mules; and was possibly used by bootleggers during prohibition. The tunnel is what really makes this an interesting hike in my book, as it allows one to imagine all sorts of interesting scenarios that occurred in this region. If you’ve got something to eat; the bench at the end of the trail at the cove is a great place to relax and watch the world go by. Lastly, while the trail isn’t technical in any way, nor that difficult, it can be a little slick at places, as your author found out. I had a very embarrassing moment when I slipped and ate it mid-way down – so much for those mountaineering skills right? But, with a little more attention and humility, I am sure you will be fine!

See you on the trail!

The infamous Partington Cove Tunnel - watch for smugglers!

More Information: http://www.blogmonterey.com/2011/06/09/partington-cove-day-hikes/, http://www.hikinginbigsur.com/hikes_partingtoncove.html, http://www.flickr.com/photos/senders/4867473789/, http://www.yelp.com/biz/partington-cove-big-sur,http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/road-trips/california-pacific-coast-road-trip/ 

Round Valley, April 2011 (less snow here than May 2010!)

Although the backcountry skiing on San Jacinto is superb, what I like most about the peak is climbing it in winter. In fact, I’d go so far as to say that I prefer climbing the peak in the winter months over the summer months. While I have nothing against the summer route – and standard route that you loosely follow in the winter – I’d say the winter approach is a lot more fun. For starters, in the winter, you will likely have to find your own route after a certain point depending on the snow; there are less people; and in my opinion, the mountain is more scenic with a coating of ice and snow than it is in the summertime. There’s also no risk of dealing with extremely hot temperatures, dust; and if the conditions are right, you can glissade down the face of the mountain, which is a great rush, and an enormous time saver. I always make a point to head up to the summit of San Jacinto once a year (just to make sure it’s still there); and for the past two years, I’ve had great bluebird days on the peak in winter. As I’ve discussed the last two days, the snow this year is not what it has been, but I am sure I will head up to the summit at some point in the near future. From what I hear, you will still need crampons/microspikes at this point, even though the snow conditions are not optimal.

Folly Peak to San Jacinto summit traverse (2011).

Directions: The easiest – and most accessible route is the same route that you would take in the summertime. The route starts from the Palm Springs Aerial Tram station in Long Valley. From the tram station, head into Long Valley, where you will pass the Ranger Station within a quarter mile. Remember, you will need a permit to head any further – but, don’t despair – permits are free! From the Ranger station, you will head up the trail (if it is visible) to Round Valley. At this point, where you head is a matter of where you want to go, and how your orienteering skills are. In 2010, I kept my group fairly close to the route of the actual trail (even though it was several feet below us in the snow); and in 2011 I elected to take my climbing partner and I up the face of Folly Peak after we branched off at Wellman’s Divide.

Alternatively, one could head straight for the summit prior to or at Round Valley; but in my opinion, the Folly Peak to San Jacinto traverse in winter is the way to go. Folly Peak is directly to the West of the San Jacinto summit; and clocks in at 10,480 feet. Last year, we traversed up to its summit in some fairly soft powder that was warming in the mid-afternoon sun. Once we were at the summit of Folly, we followed the more packed snow on the ridgeline over to the actual summit of San Jacinto, which was a little less than a mile. To get back to the tram, you can either walk back the way you came, or, if the conditions are right, like they were last year, you can glissade back down into Round Valley. This is exactly what my climbing partner and I did; we traversed back down to the rescue hut, and after checking it out – and the log, found a great spot to glissade down. I’d estimate that this way eliminated about two to three miles from our return trip; and was great fun, but there has to be enough snow to take this route (which at this point in 2012, it appears there is not). Distance wise, you can make this winter summit bid last around twelve miles if you really want, but realistically, if you know how to use a map and compass, or GPS, you’re looking at much less distance.

Summit, San Jacinto, 2011

 San Jacinto summit, looking North to San Gorgonio

Tips: As noted in the last post, you’ll want the proper gear for this, in case the tram stops running; and because you are winter mountaineering. The summit does get hit pretty hard by strong winds, and the temperature can drop very fast. If you are going to attempt this in wintertime, I’d recommend one heads out mid-winter, rather than late winter. The difference? Firm footing that will involve less postholing than melting snow offers. If you are going to attempt this, do be familiar with your map/compass/GPS so as not to get lost. And finally, do note that John Muir did indeed say, “The view from San Jacinto is the most sublime spectacle to be found anywhere on this earth!” While I hate to disagree with Muir overall, what I will say is that if you do climb the peak in winter, you will definitely have a more sublime experience than the summer!

See you on the trail!

And...a view from the summit, here: http://youtu.be/uAwr5sMeW5A

More Information: http://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/636/files/MtSanJacintoSPmap.pdf, http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=1480, http://angeles.sierraclub.org/hps/guides/27F.htm, http://www.summitpost.org/folly-peak/300638, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Jacinto_Peak, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/6/6/san-jacinto-tram-to-summit-may-31-2010.html

Heading for the San Jacinto summit, Winter 2011

One of my annual traditions is to head out to San Jacinto in the wintertime to partake in some of the best backcountry skiing in Southern California. However, if I’m being honest, it looks like this tradition is going to take a one-year hiatus based on the conditions I saw on Sunday, January 23, 2012, as there is not enough snow to get in any runs, unless I’m willing to ride over rocks and more rocks. Perhaps the conditions will change in the next six weeks, but at this point, as I noted yesterday, it looks like a drought year for us, which means no backcountry skiing on San Jacinto. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/23/current-snow-conditions-on-mt-san-jacinto-january-2012.html)

 Plenty of fresh powder to go around! (2011)

Forget the snowpack though for now: let me tell you why I think San Jacinto is the best backcountry skiing in Southern California. First, it’s easily accessible – it’s a quick twelve minute ride up the Palm Spring Aerial Tramway to Long Valley, and in a good snow year like 2010 or 2011, you can instantly head out once you leave the tram station. Even in poor years, or late in the season, it’s a short hike/walk up towards Round Valley at around 9000 feet, where you will encounter snow that can be traversed and then skied. Second, there’s lots of variety. You can ski around either Long Valley, Round Valley, or many other portions of the park on relatively flat terrain; and there is plenty of downhill terrain either on the face of the peak proper, or in various chutes and small hills. In this respect, the terrain can be great for beginners – or for experts looking to get in some serious backcountry runs.

In my experience, should there be enough snow, and should you be willing to invest some effort into traversing with skins or on ski, or hiking on foot, you can get a good run of approximately 1500 vertical feet in – not too shabby! Third, unlike Baldy, and the terrain around it, it’s not too busy. Sure, you’ll pass people in Long Valley, but once you get out in the open, you’re going to find fresh powder – I guarantee it. In this respect, I’d say San Jacinto is one of the more unknown areas to ski in, even though it’s readily apparent to everyone.

Getting ready for the ~1500 or so foot vertical run. (2011) Tips: I always try and head up the day after a storm, because there will be fresh powder everywhere. Even if I can’t make it after a storm, I arrive at the tram station early to catch the first tram up at 8:00 am as the tram cars fill up as the day progresses, and it’s a hassle dealing with a full tram and all of your gear. Do also note that a permit is required for traveling past Long Valley, but such permits are free, and are found at the Long Valley Ranger Station. I always have the proper gear for this trip – map, compass, GPS, and spare clothes, among other things, just in case the tram stops running, or something else comes up. I generally also carry/wear my Avalung, but I’ve never had to use it there. I also make sure to have lots of high caloric foods and to have lots of energy, because there are no lifts after the tram, and you will be expending a lot of energy on whichever runs you do go on. Lastly, do note that the weather can change on San Jacinto fairly quickly, and the summit region does get hit pretty hard at times by high winds, which can lead to some fairly iced out conditions, so exercise the proper care.

With those things in mind, the next time there’s a mammoth dump of snow in Southern California, and you want to experience acres of wide open backcountry, check out San Jacinto – but just realize that it might be 2013 before this happens! 

More Information: http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=636, http://www.mtsanjacinto.info/index.php, http://www.pstramway.com/, http://inthewildernesswithtodd.blogspot.com/2011/03/san-jacinto-backcountry-skiing-2-27-11.html, http://san-diego-ski-club.org/backcountry.htm

San Jacinto, 01/22/12 - not much snow!

Yesterday was basically a 1980's adventure revival day as I stopped at the Cabazon Dinosaurs (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/23/cabazon-dinosaurs.html) and headed up the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway for a little hiking. There's nothing really retro - or eighties about the tram these days, as it's a slick, modern rotating machine, but when I got to Long Valley, I had a very retrofabulistic moment (yes, I know retrofabulistic isn't a real word, but it sounds good, right?) when I looked around, and there was almost no snow. At that moment, my exact thoughts were: "Where's the snow?!?!?" As you can see from the photos, there was little to no snow at around the ~8500 foot mark that Long Valley sits at. As I walked along the valley, both East and West, I'd say the snow depths were running at ~1-3 inches, variable, mostly melted off, and what base layer remained was almost completely iced out. Keep in mind that these conditions were after the "winter" storm we received in the Southern California region, which obviously left no accumumulations at this elevation. From Long Valley up to Round Valley, there was spotty accumulation, mostly under deep tree cover and around the rocks of ~2-4 inches, variable; with an occasional "drift" of a foot or more (again, completely iced out). More often than not, even up to around ~9500 feet, there were bare spots of dirt, and no snow coverage whatsoever. 

San Jacinto, 01/22/12 - where's the snow?!

This is in start contrast to last year, 2011, when I was on the summit in April, and there was still a substantial amount of snow from Long Valley on (several feet), and from 2010 when I headed up the to the summit on Memorial Day in several feet of snow from Long Valley. While a storm is passing through today, the ten day shows nothing but sun. At this point, it looks like we will be experiencing a drought year, which, while good for peakbaggers, is bad for fire conditions. If you are planning on heading for the summit at this point, I'd strongly recommend microspikes/crampons due to the prevalance of ice on the trail and summit approach.

Pray for snow!

More Information: http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=636, http://mtsanjacinto.info/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=6fa45979eed52ba5ffc35100ff9cc233