Trailside Meadows, 5/28/12

Permits: As you may or may not know, you need a permit to climb Mt. Whitney. If you don’t know that, then I’d suggest that you read any of the posts I’ve written about Mt. Whitney, as you’ve been required to have a permit for a very long time. What is new is that the Forest Service has gone to an electronic permit issuing system from recreation.gov. With respect to this development, I say, “Well played, Forest Service, way to enter the 21^st century”. Seriously. This is a good thing. Gone are the days of when you would – gasp – MAIL your permit application in and wait – gasp – WEEKS – to find out whether you had a permit. Likewise gone are the days of the faxed application. The online application allows you to know what days are available and when you can get a permit immediately. As compared to the old system, the new system seems like magic.

However, there is a teeny tiny dark side to the new system that I have to warn you about. No, it isn’t that you might not get a permit for the 4^th of July for your group of fifty people. That wouldn’t have happened under the old system either. It’s that under the new system, things are a little more stringent. Under the old system, things were a bit relaxed: I remember picking up permits at the old ranger station in Lone Pine, from the mailbox after hours, and no one ever really cared when you arrived to get your permit. (And now I’ve made myself sound old…”back in the day, before cell phones…”). Under the new system, the Forest Service does care when you arrive.

Case in point: when I went to get my permit on Sunday for my hike on Monday, I arrived at 2:30 p.m. No big deal, right? Wrong. The computer said that I was supposed to pick up my permit by 12:00 p.m. I was therefore two hours late. A big deal? Not a huge deal, but enough of a problem in that I had to tell the Ranger I was delayed by traffic, which he then put in the computer so it would release my permit. The lesson here is as follows: if you are like me, and you are used to arriving whenever to get your permit, because you’ve always done that, know that you now actually have to pick up your permit at a reasonable time. (More Info about permits here: https://fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5333235.pdf, http://www.recreation.gov/permits/Mt_Whitney/r/wildernessAreaDetails.do?page=detail&contractCode=NRSO&parkId=72201)

Mt. Whitney, as viewed from Trail Camp, 05/28/12

Bonus Tip about permits: While you have to have a permit to hike Mt. Whitney, it is not as hard to get a permit as you think. The toughest months to get permits are the following: July and August. That leaves ten other months during which obtaining a permit is not that difficult. Obviously, the longer you wish to stay on the mountain and the larger your group, the more difficult obtaining a permit will be. If you are flexible on dates, and willing to climb the mountain outside of those two months, you probably will be fine. This year, I obtained a permit for Memorial Day a week in advance – and there were plenty of other permits available for day use up to 5/28/12.

Trail Crest, 05/28/12 

Good Mountaineering Karma: Pass it On. In my opinion, there are two types of mountaineers in this world: 1) the type that attempts to summit no matter the cost; and 2) the type that is willing to help their fellow climbers. Personally, I think that Type One climbers are a bit ridiculous at their best; and at their worst, are reprehensible for not helping their fellow man. Obviously, no one should place themselves at life threatening risk of death in order to help another, but aside from that, I feel that mountaineering is a team activity, even if you are climbing solo, and that one should provide support to the best of their ability to other climbers when they can. This is a policy I’ve lived by for my entire mountaineering time, and personally, I’d like to see more climbers adopt it. When I was on Mt. Whitney on Monday, I encountered a patch of ice that realistically, you needed an ice axe and crampons to traverse safely (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/5/29/current-trail-conditions-on-the-mt-whitney-trail-may-2012.html). While it was theoretically possible to bypass this area (even though a steep drop-off was around it), as a practical point, it was basically impassable for novice climbers without the proper gear.

 Good Mountaineering Karma: Pass it on and reach the summit!

When I saw this, I first analyzed it to see how I could traverse it safely, and after doing so, looked up at the climber immediately behind me. He did not have an ice axe, nor crampons. I did not know him, in fact, I don’t even know his name now. Directly behind him? A couple that I didn’t know either, also without equipment. All of them were staring at this segment of ice with dismayed expressions. The summit? It was a mile away. That’s right: all of these people had hiked and climbed 10 miles up to potentially be stopped by this obstacle. How do I know they could have been potentially stopped? I heard them discussing it. Now, if I was a Type One climber, I would have: a) not listened to this conversation, because I would have already been down the trail; and b) not cared. 

Since I’m a Type Two climber, what did I do? I cut steps for them to descend. It took me maybe ten minutes. Then I lent two of them my axe as they descended so they could have extra security. The result? All of us reached the summit. If I hadn’t been there, they wouldn’t have reached the summit on that day. The Lesson: good mountaineering karma: pass it on – who knows when you’ll need help to see something amazing. (As an additional aside, I saw plenty of other people using those steps on my descent as well!)

Summer Conditions. 2012 has been a dry year for the Sierras. As I said yesterday, the current snow conditions are what I would expect to see in August normally. This means that in the next couple weeks the remainder of the snow will melt off, and the seasonal flows will disappear. If you are climbing Mt. Whitney this year from this point on, I would strongly recommend that you have enough water for your climb (good advice any year), as there may not be any sources for you to filter water from. This will also aid you in avoiding dehydration and altitude sickness as well. And as always, enjoy the 97 switchbacks and the hike, and don't forget your wag bags!

Hikers consider the cables on Mt. Whitney, 05/28/12

Alright, just the facts about the Mt. Whitney trail today, I’ll get to my thoughts about the hike tomorrow.

Trail Conditions: The conditions are good for hiking. As I have said innumerable times in 2012, California has had a dry winter, and nowhere is this more evident than in the Sierra Nevada mountain range right now. This is the fourth consecutive year I’ve been on Whitney (2012-2009) around the same time (May to mid-June), and this is the least amount of snow and ice I’ve seen on the mountain in a long time. There is a dramatic drop off from the amount of snow that was present in 2011 and 2010 and I’d say that the amount of snow on Whitney and in the Sierras as a whole is more emblematic of early August than late May!

Yesterday, May 28, 2012, I hiked the Mt. Whitney trail from Whitney Portal to the summit. I got an early start, leaving the Portal at around 4:00 a.m. from the overnight hikers campground, and I was carrying the gear that I discussed in Thursday’s post. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/5/24/gear-list-for-a-single-day-ascent-of-the-mt-whitney-trail-sp.html). From the Portal, the trail is clear of snow, ice, and mostly all debris all the way through Trail Camp and up past the first section of switchbacks ascending Mt. Whitney. (There are some small deadfalls on and around the trail, but there are trail crews out and working on these areas, and these spots are nothing to be concerned about). From what I saw, I would say that the snowline is currently running at approximately 10,000 feet or higher, although some very very small patches of snow do exist between 9,000-10,000 feet. The standard creek crossings prior to Outpost Camp are flowing, but due to the dry winter, such crossings are low, and likely to subside within the next couple weeks.

The remaining snowfield on the chute, 05/28/12

Since there were no obstacles or other problems, I rolled through Trail Camp at around ~7:35 a.m. At that point, most of Trail Camp was stirring, and I took the opportunity to climb up the first section of switchbacks to where the snowfield from the Whitney “chute” stopped. My plan was to climb the chute as I had done in 2010/2011 in order to avoid six miles of hiking on the switchbacks. However, even though it was a cool morning (at that point it was around 30 degrees, with a steady 10-15mph cool breeze coming from the West, off the mountain), the snowfield next to the switchbacks was already fairly soft and sloppy. I traversed approximately fifteen feet into the snowfield to satisfy myself that the snow was indeed slushy, and not just melting by the edges; and I found that it was very sloppy, slushy, and the consistency of a slurpee pretty much throughout.

At this point, it was around 8:00 a.m., and I knew that it would only be getting warmer in the chute and on the snowfield with the sun shining directly on it for the next several hours. As I had no desire to repeat my experience of 2011, when my group and I slogged up the chute in molasses-like conditions, I elected to continue up the switchbacks. At that point, 8:00 a.m., there was a team of climbers leaving Trail Camp who had the gear to ascend the chute (ice axes and crampons) and elected to take the chute rather than hike the switchbacks with me. By the time I reached Trail Crest, I could see them only a quarter of the way up the chute; and they eventually elected to turn back to Trail Camp as they were exhausted from attempting to traverse the sloppy, slushy snow of the chute.

View from Trail Crest, 05/28/12

It’s also worth noting that there are many exposed rocks and boulders in the chute at this point in time, as well as other unseen hazards that are likely lurking underneath the surface.  While all of this discussion about the chute is likely academic, as the remainder of it will probably melt off within the next two weeks, I would not recommend that anyone attempt it at this point in time unless they are climbing it while it is still frozen – i.e., before 8:00 a.m. I did speak to one climber who summited yesterday who did take the chute – but he traversed it at 6:00 a.m., and walked back down the switchbacks. As far as I’m aware, he’s the only one who made the summit yesterday who did take the chute.

As for the switchbacks, the first third of them are completely snow and ice free and are in good condition. The place where snow and ice becomes an issue is at the cables. While the first section of the cables has snow against the mountain, they are passable. However, the last section of the cables and trail is blocked completely by a mass of ice (and some snow)(as pictured). Due to the steep drop off next to the cables, this is a bad spot for a large mass of ice and snow to be. At this point, there were a number of people surveying the situation, with most parties electing to turn around rather than risk a fall. There were a number of people (myself included), who elected to proceed around the cables as best as possible. Even though I had crampons and an ice axe, I decided not to use them at this point as I saw them as being of no benefit in that situation. Instead, I managed to lever myself around on the cables before proceeding up the trail. This seemed to be the popular approach to the problem; but obviously, judge the conditions and your skill level accordingly before attempting to pass. Again, I imagine this is an academic discussion, as this obstacle is melting out and should be completely passable within the next two weeks, I would think.

Final snowfield near Whitney summit, 05/28/12

The remainder of the switchbacks and Trail Crest were also mostly free of snow and ice. From Trail Crest to the summit, there are a couple of patches of ice and snow; and there was one problem area near the “windows”. This problem was a four foot by three foot block of compressed ice lying up against the mountain on a downhill section of trail. Directly past this area was a drop off of twenty to several hundred feet. At this point, even though it was a short distance – four feet, maximum, I elected to use my ice axe and crampons. The ice in this block was very solid. Once I was back on the trail, I cut steps in the ice for the three climbers behind me in order that they could safely continue their ascent. While I’m not sure if a fall from this spot would be immediately fatal, it certainly seemed more treacherous than the segment by the cables to me. I also think that this obstacle will remain on the trail for a longer period of time, given that it is solid ice in shadow at a high elevation. From the windows to the summit, there were a few sections of snow on the trail, and a last snowfield (also slushy in the mid-afternoon) that was thirty feet across.

The summit itself was nearly completely snow-free, and I summited at around 11:15 a.m.(http://youtu.be/j364VWB-rPA) Due to the wind, slushy chute, obstacles near the cables, and other standard mountaineering issues, there weren’t many people on the summit yesterday. I passed four people coming down on my ascent, and was joined on the summit by five other people. At the time of my descent (~12:00 p.m.), I passed four people who had a reasonable expectation of summiting, leaving the mountain with an unofficial summit total of 14 people, somewhat low considering there was a lack of snow on the trail. Nevertheless, it was a great hike, and I’d say that within two weeks, there will be no need to carry ice axes or crampons, as there will be no snowfields or other snow related obstacles.

Note: The gear in this photo is not the gear talked about below!

Back by popular demand, it’s the list of gear that I will take up Mt. Whitney in a few days. As always, know the conditions and do not follow my recommendations blindly. Equally as important, know your own body, which will help you determine which items are best for you to keep your core temperature in the proper range during the ascent. As I noted yesterday, the weather on the mountain can change rapidly; and you will need to have the clothes to withstand such climactic changes. Chances are, unless you are some sort of alien, your body will go from cold to hot and back to cold during the hike, which means you will need to layer appropriately to avoid heatstroke or hypothermia. Last, just because I reference a piece of gear in my list that I am using does not mean that you need to have the exact same piece of gear – certain manufacturers make similar gear; some gear I am using may (gasp) be several years old, but reliable; and some gear from other parties may fit you better. Use your best discretion in utilizing this list as it is a mere guide, not the end-all-be-all of gear lists, but you can also be assured that I do know what I’m doing as I’ve been up this mountain 11 times, and summited 7 times, in addition to all of the other mountaineering that I’ve done. So, without further ado, here’s the gear I’ll be taking:

Mandatory (Meaning, I have to have it for the climb in May 2012, and if you are going in May 2012, you should probably have it too):

1)      Backpack: I run a slightly larger Arc’teryx daypack that I’ve been using for several years now. I’m not sure what the model is, but it’s served me well, and I like how Arc’teryx gives you comfortable padding on the shoulders/back/hipbelt. Whatever backpack you are bringing, I suggest that it has a spot to either strap on your ice axe or a loop to attach it. 

2)      Ice Axe/Crampons: At this point in time, there is snow/ice on Whitney, and if you are looking to ascend and descend safely, you will need these tools and the knowledge of how to use them. Both my ice axe and crampons are made by Black Diamond, but there are other solid brands out there. Make sure that the ice axe is sized for your correct height, and the crampons fit your boots ahead of time.

3)      Water: I carry a full four liters, mainly because I like to stay hydrated, which helps with the altitude, and because I hate stopping to filter water. I also like to have extra in reserve for emergencies, and as a bonus tip I’ll admit that I actually carry five liters, in that I’ll probably drink a liter before heading up the trail.

4)      Clothing (to wear): I’m going to be wearing a set of breathable hiking pants; hiking socks (good socks, almost as important as good boots); mid-weight fleece long underwear top; and I’ll bring a soft-shell fleece jacket that’s heavy for two reasons: 1) no need to carry an additional waterproof shell; 2) it will keep you warm when you do stop/protect you from the wind. Chances are I won’t put on my jacket until I get to Trail Crest; at which point I’ll also change my top despite it being a wicking fabric. I will also bring a pair of gaiters, because no one likes snow inside their boots.

5)      Clothing (reserve): Since you don’t want to carry much weight on a one-day climb, you want to keep your reserve clothes to a minimum; while leaving you with room for margin should you need them. Since I carry a soft-shell fleece, I don’t carry an additional jacket. What I do carry is a set of long underwear bottoms, and an extra long underwear top to wear from Trail Crest down. That’s it. The only way I would consider carrying extra clothes than that is if I knew the conditions called for extreme cold or weather, in which case, a lot of things would be different.

6)      Hats: I carry a fleece hat for cold; and a brimmed hat for sun.

7)      Boots: I will be using my set of Asolo Mountaineering boots that fit my crampons. The only good piece of advice I can give you about boots is that you should never take a brand new pair of boots on this hike that have not been broken in. Other than that, it’s personal preference.

8)      Food: Again, for a day climb, you shouldn’t be looking to eat gourmet meals. This again is a personal preference area, but you have to eat. For starters, you are going up 11 miles, and ascending 6,000 feet – you will be burning calories at an amazing rate. If you’re not eating, chances are you’re not going to make it because your body will run out of energy. I personally take energy bars and other high protein sugar fare, and munch through the day, knowing that I can have a good meal the night before and the night after. If you want to take sandwiches/cook food, know that you will be either: a) carrying extra weight; b) taking extra time. If it’s in your timeframe/plan, good for you; I pretty much only stop at Trail Crest and the Summit. Also, as another bonus tip: watch out for marmots when you do stop, because they are looking for food and quite aggressive, and will chew through packs, tents, and other items if you aren’t attentive.

9)      10 Essentials: Some of these are covered above – food, water, clothing. The ones that aren’t – such as matches, water purification tablets, emergency blanket, knife/multitool, map/compass (or GPS), sunscreen, sunglasses, and first aid kit, to name a few, you should have on your person. Even though Whitney is a popular trail, you should always be prepared.

10)  Wagbag/TP: Everyone poos. Chances are you will need to use it. Best bonus tip you will get: bring an extra bag to put the wagbag in, in case of leaks/spills and to cut down on the smell.

 The infamous "Wagbag" - everyone poos!

Optional Gear (You might want it; then again, you might want to save the weight).

1)      Camera: I’ve been to Whitney a lot, so at this point, I rely on my iPhone to get the shots/video. It works great and saves weight.

2)      Trekking Poles: I hear these save knees, but I’m not quite ready to sign up for a set just yet.

3)      Additional Clothes; additional food; additional water; or anything else that you think you need/want in particular. If you think you’re packing too much: you might be – don’t be like this guy here: http://youtu.be/ZzUDr3wdOac, and like me, enjoy your hike/climb!

Going for a Two Day Climb? Check out this list here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2007/12/10/the-las-list-of-gear-for-whitney-october-19-20-2007.html

Snowfield in Consultation Lake drainage, June 2011

At 14,505 feet, Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the continental United States. As the “highest peak”, it carries a certain amount of mountaineering cache. How much mountaineering cache? Well, that depends on what kind of a mountaineer one aspires to be; and when one climbs the mountain. Some mountaineers dismiss the peak as a “walk-up” because in July and August when the snow melts, a summit attempt only requires hiking eleven miles to the summit and eleven miles back down to the trailhead, which requires no technical climbing skills at all. From late fall to mid-summer, when the trail is covered with snow, the peak is not a mere “walk-up”, and technical skills are required to traverse snowfields safely while climbing up to the summit. I’ve been on the peak – and on the mountain a number of times, and what I can say about the mountain is this: there are prettier mountains; there are uglier mountains; it can be a place of mystic serenity; and it can be a place of brutal despair; but even though I’ve summited it seven times, I keep going back because it’s there, and because I like to go to the mountains to seek their tidings for my own inner peace.

But let’s talk about the facts about Mt. Whitney. Assuming you are taking the Whitney Portal Trail – the most popular trail, and the one that is run by a lottery, you are talking about over 6,000 feet of elevation gain to the summit; and 6,000 feet of elevation loss from the summit. You are talking about a total distance of twenty-two miles roundtrip. While these numbers won’t confuse anyone with the distances and the elevations gained and lost in the Himalayas, they’re nothing to take lightly either. This is to say nothing of the other hazards that you will encounter on the mountain: acclimatization issues, heatstroke, dehydration, hypothermia, weather, bears, and yes, marmots. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2007/11/21/las-guide-to-summiting-whitney-part-v-minor-to-major-potenti.html).

 The "chute", June, 2011

As I mentioned above, I’ve been on the peak a number of times (11); and I’ve summited seven times – this may seem like a lot, until you realize that other, more experienced climbers have been on the peak many more times than you (26 weeks in a row consecutively; 10 times in a week). The best things to know about Whitney are to know your limits and be prepared. What is the best resource for information about Mt. Whitney and current conditions? The Mt. Whitney Portal message board. Every time that I’ve climbed Mt. Whitney (in the internet age), this board has provided me with invaluable resources about conditions and what to expect. This information is crucial, because conditions vary on the mountain from day to day, and month to month. In 2001, when I summited Whitney, it was 95 degrees on the switchbacks – and it felt like 120 in the direct sun. In 2005, I couldn’t make it past Trail Camp in early May because I had no snowshoes, and was breaking trail the whole way. In 2007, when I backpacked up with a group, we had 50-70 mph winds ripping through our camp at Trail Camp all night before our summit bid the next day.

In 2009, I got off the summit just before clouds rolled in and the thundersnow began. In 2010 I got my group off of the summit and trail crest just as it began to snow on the day of the summer solstice. This is to say nothing of what happened in 2002, or any other year. In order to summit the mountain, you have to know the conditions, and be prepared for the conditions, as well as know your own physical condition and limits. Last year, in 2011, when I led my group up in mid-June (when all of these pictures were taken), there was still quite a bit of snow. In fact, there was more snow than when I had taken my group up on June 20, 2010. (Pictures here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/7/1/mt-whitney-portal-to-summit-june-21-2010-part-two.html).

Looking back down the chute, June 2011

Like 2010, we had decided that we were going up the mountain in one day, and we were taking the main trail. Unlike 2010, however, we ran into snow covering the trail from a point just beyond Lone Pine Lake. At that point, it was no problem – since we had the proper gear and knowledge, we traversed firm, packed snow through the drainage of Consultation Lake up toward trail camp. We arrived at Trail Camp at around ~9 a.m., which we assumed would give us plenty of time to traverse the snow covering the “chute” to Trail Crest. However, unlike 2010, the snow in the chute was already warm and slightly sloppy at that time of day. The result? We spent a brutal two hours slogging through knee high soft snow to Trail Crest in the direct sun, which totally destroyed our energy levels.

After a rest, we headed out toward the summit along the backside. While my two climbing partners were still in good form, I was dragging. Even worse, having been up the summit seven times, I knew I was dragging. And this is where the first lesson about Mt. Whitney comes in: know your limits. In the 11 times I have been on the mountain, I have seen all sorts of crazy things, mostly involving people not being prepared, and not knowing their limits. Now, there’s a fine line here: as a mountaineer, you want to push yourself to accomplish your goal; but you also want to be safe. As Sir Edmund Hillary noted, a successful climb of any mountain involves descending. On Whitney, like any mountain, you have to know your limits, especially when risks like altitude sickness do exist. You have to know that when you are on the summit you are only halfway done with the hike. Think about that: on Whitney, when you are on the summit, you still have to descend 11 miles safely, which, like in 2011 and 2010, may be treacherous due to snow and ice. You have to apportion your energy accordingly, and know your limits.

 West Side,Mt. Whitney Trail, June 2011

As for me in 2011, I sat down on the crest within a quarter mile of the summit (how do I know it was ¼ mile or less? Really? After being there past there 7 times, you know) and waited for my friends to come down. Could I have made it to the summit? Sure, I could have made it. Did I have to make it? No. Would anything bad have happened to me on the descent had I gone for it? Probably not. But stopping to rest; take in the view; and the mountain was the right decision and one that I would make again. (More on that here: http://youtu.be/Up-KyPn5Y8g). Was it easy? Nope, I am a very competitive person, and having been to the summit seven times before doesn’t make me less competitive, especially knowing how close I was. Still, it was the right decision, and next week I’ll be going back – and stay tuned to see where I end up on the mountain. But if you are considering attempting to summit, be prepared – and know your limits!

Current Conditions for 2012: There was not much snow this year in the Sierra, so from what I hear, the trail is pretty clear to Trail Camp. However, check back in next week for my report on the trail conditions. At this point, it still appears that you will need an ice axe, and crampons. 

Whitney Portal Message Boards: http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=1&page=1

Iron Mountain, 5/20/12

Good news: the Solar Eclipse of 2012 came and went yesterday, and the world did not end. As a result, we will now have to wait for the next big celestial event – the transit of Venus (the last one of the 21^st century, FYI) to find out if indeed the apocalypse is happening. Fortunately, we do not have to wait long – this event will be occurring on June 5, and June 6 of this year. (http://earthsky.org/astronomy-essentials/last-transit-of-venus-in-21st-century-will-happen-in-june-2012). If by some fluke chance, the transit of Venus does not end all life as we know it on the planet, there will only be a few more months left until December 2012 comes along and provides a definitive answer on whether life on this planet will end this year. If not, there’s always next year with all of its associated predictions of doom and gloom to look forward to!

In San Diego, as the forecast for Sunday was for a coastal cloud layer up to approximately 1500 feet, I elected to take my group of eclipse viewers to higher ground atop the summit of Iron Mountain in order not to miss the show. I figured that at 2,696 feet, we’d be well above the cloud deck, and have a great bird’s eye view with our “Eclipse Glasses” that I had picked up from the Reuben H. Fleet Space Theater. (http://www.rhfleet.org/).

 The Infamous "Eclipse Glasses"

The Trail: I took my group up the standard Iron Mountain trail described here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/2/11/iron-mountain.html. Not surprisingly, the trail had not changed at all since I had last been on it. We made good time up the trail, and there were no obstructions of any sort, nor any new developments on the trail that I can report for spring 2012. The City of Poway does a good job of keeping the trail clean and clear; so aside from several yuccas being consumed by hungry beetles, everything appears normal for this time of year. The only thing I will say about the hike was that as it is now late May, the temperatures are starting to heat up on the trail, so plan accordingly, bring plenty of water, and keep an eye out for rattlesnakes.

The Eclipse: While Iron Mountain has a good view from the summit, this view was obscured to the west yesterday by those aforementioned coastal clouds. And, while Iron Mountain has a good view, we there to see the eclipse, and it did not disappoint. Around 5:27 p.m., the moon slowly began to move in front of the sun, and for the next hour, my group and everyone else who made the hike had a great view of the phenomenon. While the summit did eventually fill up with people by around 6:30 p.m., at which point the sun was almost 83% covered, it was a sociable crowd which was willing to help one another by sharing pieces of welder’s glass, eclipse glasses, or other safe-sun viewing equipment and knowledge. There was even a telescope set up that could pick out sunspots on the visible portions of the sun, so if you were a science person, the summit was a good place to be.

 Cell phones: good for everyday use; not as good for eclipse photos. Especially when the battery dies!

Lessons Learned: First and foremost, while the Eclipse Glasses may have looked like something out of a bad 1950’s three-dimensional movie, they were very effective in protecting our eyes. In this respect, I am very pleased to report that none of my group went blind, so thank you Reuben H. Fleet science center. (Again: http://www.rhfleet.org/). In addition to preventing blindness, these glasses sold at an economical $2.00 per pair, which saved me the trouble of wandering around the county as some parties apparently did looking for welder’s glass. We also learned that while cell phones are great at snapping images of everyday life, they’re not so good for taking pictures of the eclipse (even when filtered through a set of eclipse eyeglasses). Other than that, it was an excellent time, and I’m sure I’ll be out for the next solar eclipse, because at those times, the sun and moon have the power to turn minutes into centuries.

Photos of the Eclipse: http://www.ibtimes.com/articles/343423/20120521/solar-eclipse-2012-photos-ring-fire-annular.htm, http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2012/05/ring_of_fire_eclipse_2012.html

Tips: Don't stare into the sun. No, really. Don't stare into the sun with unprotected eyes. Also, don't stare into the solar eclipse (i.e., the sun and the moon) with unprotected eyes either. I'd think this is/was/would be common sense, but, judging by the amount of warnings out there, apparently not. Here's a handy chart on how to view the eclipse safely without going blind: http://www.space.com/15614-sun-observing-safety-tips-infographic.html. And, if you don't take precautions, and you do go blind, don't worry, the Mayans predicted that the world will end on December 20, 2012, so you won't have to be blind for long......maybe, assuming they haven't been misinterpreted by scholars and laypeople several thousand years later....

More Information: http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2012/may/12/how-prepare-big-eclipse-may-20/, http://nature.nps.gov/features/eclipse/index.cfm, http://articles.cnn.com/2012-05-16/tech/tech_solar-eclipse_1_eclipse-viewers-annular-sky-telescope?_s=PM:TECH

And, how to photograph the eclipse here: http://news.yahoo.com/sunday-solar-eclipse-safely-photograph-ring-fire-180800451.html

Titan Missile Silo, Spring 2012

The Cold War- a great time to listen to the dulcet tones of The Ink Spots singing I Don’t Want to Set the World on Fire while wondering which superpower would ultimately prevail. Today, even though the United States won the Cold War, not much has changed: during the Cold War, there was paranoia over potential nuclear attacks. Today, there is paranoia over potential terrorist attacks (with or without nuclear weapons). During the Cold War, there was biting, heated political rhetoric about democracy versus communism. Today, we have…biting, heated political rhetoric about democracy versus communism or socialism. The phrase, “the more things change, the more they stay the same” seems fairly applicable regarding these situations, but one thing that has changed, and for the better is the decommissioning of numerous ballistic missile facilities due to the Strategic Arms Limitation Talks (“SALT”) and Strategic Arms Reduction Treaties (“START”) that occurred at the end of the Cold War.

Today, the only remaining Titan II intercontinental ballistic missile site (“ICBM”) that remains open to the public – or slightly operational at all is the Titan Missile Museum in Sahuarita, Arizona. Since I’m a sucker for strange spots, I decided to swing by and check it out when I was in Arizona a couple of weeks ago. The first thing you realize about the missile site and silo is that during the Cold War, the government of the United States was very smart. How so? Think about it: the silo, the missile, and the site were and are located in the middle of nowhere in an inhospitable desert. If there had been nuclear war, the area would have been reduced to a location that was in the middle of nowhere in a now inhospitable and radioactive desert. In short, no loss to the United States whatsoever. Take that commies! (People of Sahuarita, I kid – no hate mail, please, I love being out in the middle of inhospitable nowheres).

 Titan Missile Silo, Spring 2012

The second thing you realize about the site is that the Titan missile in it protected the United States not just from the Soviet Union, but from the Borg as well. That’s right: the Titan missile protected us in the past and will protect us in the future as well, if Star Trek: First Contact is to be believed. Again I say, kudos to you government planners! What’s that? Start Trek isn’t real? Pshaw, that’s not what I hear! In any case, Star Trek: First Contact was filmed at the silo (in part) – so it must be true! But onto my review of the actual museum and tour, as opposed to my observations of things I learned even before I entered the site (such as to also watch out for rattlesnakes. I know! They hang out in the desert! Who knew!).

The tour: well, the museum and tours are run by volunteers of the Pima Air and Space museum, and all joking aside, they are very knowledgeable about the site, the history, and the region. I was impressed by all of the knowledge all of the staff members brought to the facility and the tour; however, at times, I felt that there was a little too much information being imparted, such as the exact composition of Titan II rocket fuel, and how it was transported from three different sites to Sahuarita. I like technical information as much as the next guy, but at times, there was definitely some information overload. I have to admit that as a Cold War espionage aficionado, I found the information about how the crew entered the silo and base through a number of secured locations in a certain amount of time fascinating.

There were some odd moments on the tour, however, starting with the requirement that every man over 5’10 wear a safety helmet. What about women over 5’10? That question was never answered for me – and was probably information that was kept on a need to know basis. Secondly, this was another site where photography was supposedly not permitted. Seriously, Arizona, what’s up with that? This time, I was told it was for “national security reasons”. Now look: I’m as patriotic and respectful of National Security as anyone, but you’re honestly going to tell me I can’t take pictures of an over thirty year old facility that’s been decommissioned, open to the public, and full of thirty year old technology because of “National Security”? That boggles my mind. As you can see, I took two pictures – one of the interior corridor, and one of the blast door. If the release of these images means that the commies will win the Cold War that’s already over, I’m sorry America. The coolest thing of the tour – despite being inside a nuclear ICBM silo – was the simulated launch at the end of the missile. If I had gotten to touch the missile, that would have been the best part of the tour easily. Having said that, despite receiving a little too much information at times on the tour, it was definitely a good experience that I’d recommend.

Directions: The silo is located at: 1580 W. Duval Mine Rd., Sahuarita, Arizona, which is approximately two miles west of the Interstate 19.

Tips: Apparently, there are tours of the silo that allow you to visit the crew quarters, and at times, stay inside the silo. While those options sound pretty darn neat-o to me, I sadly was not there at the right time to experience those options. Personally, I think the tour is best suited for anyone who was born after 1991, as it will blow their minds as to the state of technology back in “the dark ages” of the Cold War.

More Information: http://www.titanmissilemuseum.org/index.php?pg=1, http://www.bigwaste.com/photos/az/titan/, http://www.atomictourist.com/titan.htm

You might not know it from reading Coleridge’s stanzas, but Xanadu is actually in Southern Arizona. To be precise, the entrance to Xanadu is found in Benson, Arizona. Don’t believe me? It’s true. That’s where the Kartchner Caverns are found, caves that were originally named “Xanadu” by Gary Tenen and Randy Tufts to protect them and keep them secret from the general public. Alright, fine – if you want to be technical, Coleridge was talking about an imaginary land, one that only existed in his mind and one that was probably fostered by a wicked opium addiction, but he might as well have been talking about the Kartchner Caverns, because they are that phantasmagorical.

Enough about Coleridge – let’s talk caves. The Kartchner Caverns are over 50,000 years old, and are some of the most well preserved limestone caves in the world. These caves are a part of the Arizona State Park system, and have an interesting human history from the late twentieth century on. As I mentioned above, the caves were discovered by Gary Tenen and Randy Tufts, and they were so concerned that the caves would be co-discovered or found by other parties and either ruined or despoiled, they only referred to the caves with code words. Eventually, they introduced the caves to various parties, and eventually the caves were acquired by the State Park system to be protected in perpetuity for the general public. (A more extensive history of all the secret shenanigans of Gary and Randy can be found here: http://www.explorethecaverns.com/caverns-history.html).

I recently visited the Caverns, and took the Rotunda/Throne Room tour. As the park website suggested, I booked my cave tour tickets early, and arrived early. Even though the parking lot was beginning to fill up on a sunny Sunday, the park rangers helpfully moved me to an earlier tour that had availability with no charge. The Ranger leading the earlier tour noted that my group was somewhat lucky, as it only had 13 people in it, as opposed to the usual thirty (30!). The first unique thing I noticed about the Caverns, after the informative museum and shuttle ride to the cave entrance were the massive airlock doors that you must pass through to enter the caverns. That’s right; I said doors – plural, as there are three. The state of Arizona spent over 28 million dollars to protect the caves – and their warm, moist environment from the dry environment of the desert. From what I could feel, the doors are doing a great job. The ambient temperature in the cave was roughly ten to fifteen degrees warmer than outside (it was a cold morning), and it was downright muggy.

As for the remainder of the tour, I’ll be honest: I’d prefer to explore this location or any location on my own. Now that I’ve complained, I’ll be the first to admit that the Ranger leading the hike was well versed in the different formations of the Throne Room and the Rotunda, and very knowledgeable about the history of the caverns, and the scientific processes that formed them. The tour ended with a light and music show at the infamous “Kubla Kahn” pillar – which is the largest limestone column in Arizona, which was also pretty cool.

Directions: The State Park website provides this handy web form to get you to their park:  http://azstateparks.com/parks/kaca/map_driving.html

Tips: Astute readers and even first time visitors will notice that I have posted no pictures of the caverns and are probably wondering why there are no photos in this entry. Alas, the caverns do not allow photography at all. However, there are some great videos of the formations at these links, which give you an idea of what you can see: http://youtu.be/ISewwO38xs0, http://azstateparks.com/parks/kaca/index.html. It’s also important to note that portions of the caverns are closed during the year to protect the native bat population. Finally, if you’re one for conspiracy theories and or good fiction, read this link to learn how the caverns may be inhabited by a monster, and why that is the real reason why photography isn’t allowed: http://sylvestrusmaximus.tumblr.com/post/15805539951/the-creature-of-kartchner-caverns-preview.

More Information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kartchner_Caverns_State_Park, http://www.moon.com/destinations/tucson/excursions-tucson/kartchner-caverns-and-the-huachuca-mountains/sights/kartchner-caverns-state-park

Tuzigoot Ruins, Spring 2012

Tuzigoot. That’s right. I said it – Tuzigoot. It’s not a curse, it doesn’t mean anything about aliens, it’s a word from a long lost past. Tuzigoot is the Apache word for “crooked water”. But, if you’re considering going to Tuzigoot, there’s something even more interesting than long-lost words – it’s the fact that the entirety of the ruin was partially hidden when it was excavated in the 1930’s. As I mentioned last week, Tuzigoot is the ruins of a small city, and now is the second National Monument located in the Verde Valley (the first being Montezuma’s Castle). Like Montezuma’s Castle, Tuzigoot was inhabited by the Sinagua people in the 1000’s. Again, like Montezuma’s Castle, the site was mysteriously abandoned in the 1400’s by those same Sinagua people.

Unlike Montezuma’s Castle, however, Tuzigoot was constructed atop a reasonably sized hill with commanding views of the Verde Valley. To me, this is where things get interesting – whereas Montezuma’s Castle was (and is) hidden away from inquisitive eyes for hundreds of years in niches in a slot canyon, the ruins of Tuzigoot were in plain view for hundreds of years. That’s right: the ruins of Tuzigoot were in plain view for hundreds of years – and yet hidden. Now, I know there’s bound to be skeptical readers that are reading this blog and saying, “Yeah right – I know that someone had to have seen those ruins”.

Riddle me this though,  readers: would you have known that ancient ruins lurked here in 1934 had you been walking through the Verde Valley and examining the hill that Tuzigoot stands on at a distance? Would you have? Would you have known that based on seeing something that looked exactly like this: http://www.nps.gov/tuzi/images/20090728174213.jpg ? Personally, I rather doubt it. And, this goes to my larger point that I talked about a week ago: use your powers of observation – there’s always something magical and mysterious waiting to be discovered out in the world. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/5/1/chapel-of-the-holy-dove-kendrick-park-arizona.html) The archeologists and people that worked on the Tuzigoot excavation certainly thought that there were many interesting things to be discovered too!

 Tuzigoot Ruins, Spring 2012

Directions: The National Park Service advises potential visitors not to Mapquest or use Google to find Tuzigoot (aha, here is the evidence of an alien conspiracy, as it is clearly unplottable!) as such services supposedly give you bad directions. Since I’m bad at following directions, I used Google Maps and…..had no problems. Nevertheless, the NPS directions are quite good, so for your convenience, here they are:

“Tuzigoot National Monument is 52 miles south of Flagstaff, Arizona via U.S. Alternate Highway 89A, or 90 miles north of Phoenix. Travel Interstate Highway 17, take Exit 287 and travel west on Highway 260 to Cottonwood. You will continue through Cottonwood on Hwy 89A and go toward Clarkdale. At the first traffic light after turning on to 89A, signs will direct you to turn left to stay on 89A. Go straight through this intersection. This will put you on HISTORIC 89A (designated on the map above as HWY 260) and take you through “Old Town Cottonwood”. As you can tell from the map, Main Street (Historic 89A) does a lot of twisting around. Once you leave Cottonwood you are almost there. There will be a sign telling you where to turn to get to Tuzigoot. You take Tuzigoot Road and follow it to the end…that is where Tuzigoot National Monument is.”

Tips: As Tuzigoot was a small city for a number of years, it also contained the remains of a number of individuals that died during that period of time. According to the National Park Service, the Sinagua people buried the remains of dead children under their living space, in order that they could be with their family. As such, when you are walking around the site, remember to treat it with respect as it is sacred to the decedents of the original inhabitants. It’s also interesting to note that the entrances to most of the living spaces at Tuzigoot were located on the ceilings, rather than the sides, which allowed the inhabitants to maximize the amount of space within the city. The Visitor Center at Tuzigoot also has some great information regarding other former sites in the Verde Valley which used to be within the line-of-sight of the city, and good information about the excavation of Tuzigoot and the Sinagua people.

More Information: http://www.exploring-arizona.com/exploring-arizona-a-fresh-look/parks/tuzigoot-national-monument/,http://www.nps.gov/tuzi/index.htm, http://www.nps.gov/history/archeology/sites/antiquities/profileTuzigoot.htm

Montezuma's Castle, Spring 2012

If I was to tell you that out of all fifty states, Arizona has the most National Monuments; chances are you would not believe me. However, this is a fact, as Arizona has eighteen National Monuments, and the next closest state, New Mexico only has twelve. And, for bonus trivia points, the difference between a National Monument and a National Park is that the President of the United States can create a National Monument without Congressional approval and that a National Park must be enacted by Congress and signed into law by the President. Placing questions of law and land use aside, all of the National Monuments and State Parks present in Arizona mean that there’s plenty to do other than go to the Grand Canyon.

One of the more interesting and little known National Monuments present in Arizona is Montezuma’s Castle. The Castle itself is one of two companion National Monuments in the Verde Valley/White Hills region of Arizona, the second being Tuzigoot National Monument (which I’ll discuss next week). Montezuma’s Castle is interesting because of what it is not. First, it is not a castle, it’s a cliff dwelling. Second, Montezuma never lived there. Third, it was inhabited by the Sinagua people – but around 1400 A.D., the site was abandoned by these people, and was uninhabited by the time it was re-discovered by settlers. Fifth, while it’s a great example of Native American cliff dwellings, it’s not even the largest example at the site – the “Castle A” remnants are ruins of a much larger structure. Now, I don’t know about you, but to me any one of these five points provides something interesting to speculate and ruminate on while you visit the site.

 Castle A Ruins, Spring 2012

Directions: Per the National Park Service, you’re going to want to take Interstate 17 to exit 289 (which is 90 minutes north of Phoenix, and 45 minutes south of Flagstaff). From Exit 289, drive East through two traffic circles (I know, bizarre, right? Another mystery – why two traffic circles in the middle of Arizona?) for a half mile (.5) to the blinking red light, where you will turn left and follow Montezuma Castle Road into the park. Once you enter the park, there is ample parking next to the visitor center. Once you have explored the visitor center to your heart’s content, there is a 1/3 (.33) of a mile interpretive trail that leads past the ruins of both Montezuma’s Castle and Castle A. The trail is flat, paved, and contains great views of the ruins and interpretive panels regarding the area.

Tips: Unless you have a time machine, and can travel back to before 1951, you will not be allowed to enter the ruins of Montezuma’s Castle or Castle A (and yes, the National Park Service did allow people into the ruins until that point). However, the interpretive trail does provide some great views of the ruins. While you are on the interpretive trail, you will also be next to Beaver Creek (which no doubt provided water for the early inhabitants and their crops) which is one of the few year-round creeks in Arizona. If you’re itching to actually explore some ruins though, you’re stuck with two options: 1) become a Ninja and sneak in at night; or 2) visit Tuzigoot, which I’ll talk about next week!

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moca/index.htm, http://www.arizonaruins.com/Sinagua/MontezumaCastle/index.html