Happy Isles Trail Junction to Cloud’s Rest

Switchbacks up the side of Nevada Fall

The great thing about Happy Isles (seriously) is that it is the jumping off point not just for day hikes, but for many multi-day trips into the backcountry from Yosemite Valley. Over ninety-five percent of Yosemite is designated as wilderness, meaning that there are few roads other than trails, and that one must hike to get to these pristine locations. If the Mist Trail is the most popular day hike from Happy Isles, the most popular long distance/multi-day hike is Half Dome. In my opinion, Half Dome is just a day hike (18 miles roundtrip), but it is also a popular overnight destination, with many people electing to climb into Little Yosemite Valley to spend the night before rising early to summit the next day. Half Dome is so popular that at this point, both day use and overnight visitors are required to get permits.  

Like Yosemite, there isn’t much I can say about Half Dome that hasn’t been said. It has obtained a mythic place in hiking lore, and many people want to try their luck at a summit bid, assuming they get a permit. For me personally, Half Dome is just alright. I felt safer climbing the Snake Dike route with ropes to the summit rather than ascending the cables over slick granite with no protection, surrounded by hordes of tired and untrained people.( http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Half-Dome-Snake-Dike) Then again, going up the cables on Half Dome is a bit of a thrill that if you’re wilderness oriented, probably should be experienced at least once in a lifetime. At some point, I’ll talk more about summiting Half Dome, but for now, know that you need a permit, and that it is a bit of a long day. For my money, however, there’s a better hike from Happy Isles that takes you to a higher mountain with less people, and that is the hike to Cloud’s Rest.

Merced River, a good place to fill up those bottles (after treating the water, of course!)

Cloud’s Rest is the highest peak in the Tenaya Canyon region of the park at 9,926 feet, and in my opinion, has one of the best views in the park, along with Sentinel Dome, Mt. Hoffman, and Mt. Dana. From the summit, you have a sheer drop-off view of Tenaya Canyon beneath you, a small Half Dome (1,100 feet shorter, at 8,836 feet), and the high country of the park to the North, East, and South. If those credentials weren’t good enough, every time I’ve been at the top, I’ve seen next to no people, and it’s a great place to camp and stargaze. Then again, if you want to sulk about not getting your Half Dome or overnight Little Yosemite Valley permit and stay home, I’m not going to complain about having a beautiful area to all to myself.

It’s worth noting that if you don’t want to climb the nearly 6,000 vertical feet from Yosemite Valley to Cloud’s Rest, you can head toward the peak from a number of trails leaving the Tioga Pass Road. While I am used to doing this hike as a minimum two-day backpack based on my experience, I’m not going to rule out certain motivated individuals doing it in a day – after all, it is only twenty-two miles roundtrip, and I, along with many people have done that distance to summit Mt. Whitney in a day, which is four thousand feet higher. If you’ve got the skill, endurance, and want a challenge (as this would be a strenuous day), I say go for it. If not, get a backcountry permit, and take your time to enjoy the backcountry. This would be a great two-day introductory backpack that would allow you also to bag a fairly tall peak, so there’s yet another bonus for heading up to Cloud’s Rest.

Directions: Head over to Happy Isles (Shuttle Stop #16). From there, follow either the Mist Trail as detailed here (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html) to Vernal Falls, and then to Nevada Falls, or take the John Muir Trail junction to Nevada Falls, as detailed here (). Either way, you will be ready for your first break once you reach the top of Nevada Falls, having climbed 2,900 vertical feet from Yosemite Valley in three miles. I’d recommend that you take a minute, eat some high calorie food, enjoy the view, and wipe the sweat off your brow before heading onward, into Little Yosemite Valley.

Atop the switchbacks, .75 miles out from the peak.

Once your break is over, you will head Northeast into Little Yosemite Valley. This mile long section of the trail is a great spot to regain your pace, and catch your second wind of the day before you once again start heading uphill. You will be passing the Merced for most of this section, and this is important to note, because it is a great spot to refill your water bottles. From mid-summer to early winter, this may be the last best source of water for the next day for you, as there are no large bodies of water present on the trail after Little Yosemite Valley. Unless there is snow on the trail that you can melt; or you have confirmed that there is still seasonal runoff that you can filter, I would highly recommend you drink up and fill up all of your bottles before proceeding any further, otherwise you may be spending a very thirsty night on the mountain.

Since this hike takes two days, I’ll continue tomorrow with my directions! Until then, see you on the trail!