Mist Trail to Nevada Fall, Yosemite National Park (2012)

Vernal Fall, Spring 2012

After I wrote a couple articles about the Mist Trail last year (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html), I received a number of e-mails wondering when the best time was to hike the Mist Trail. In all honesty, I’d say now what I said then – anytime is the best time to hike the Mist Trail to either Vernal or Nevada Fall. However, for 2012, if you are looking to experience “the mist” and want to get wet, now would be the best time to hike the Mist Trail.

The reason right now is the best time to do this hike is simple: the snowpack is already melting. As I’ve said on many occasions this year, 2012 was a bad year for the Sierra snowpack as California has had a warm winter. At this point, from about two weeks ago until mid-summer, what snow was present at the higher elevations will be melting – and at times, melting rapidly. This means that this year, from mid-to late summer, the rivers and seasonal flows will be running at a low level, or not at all. When rivers and other seasonal flows are at a low level, what waterfalls that exist flow at a low level, or not at all.

Mist Trail, Spring 2012

So, if you want to get wet, now, is the time to go for 2012, before all of the snowpack melts. When I was recently in Yosemite, I hiked the Mist Trail up to a tenth of a mile under Nevada Falls. I would have gone all the way up to Nevada Falls and come back down the John Muir Trail, but earlier in the day I had been hiking in another area of the park, and at that point, was perfectly content to take it a little easy.

From what I saw on my hike, the trail is in good to excellent condition, with few dead trees and branches on the trail to Nevada Fall. No snow remains on any section of the trail to Nevada Fall, and from my observations of that area as well as other areas of the park, the snowline is running at ~8500 feet or higher, depending on the sun exposure of the area. As conditions are warm, and only going to get warmer, it’s a great time to get out and do this hike!

Directions: As noted in previous articles, you’re going to either want to take the Yosemite Park Bus to Happy Isles, where the trailhead for the Mist Trail is, or you’re going to want to bike or walk there. Further directions on distances and everything else can be found here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html .

More Tips: Another good reason to hike this trail this time of year is the opportunity to see wildlife – on my recent hike, I saw a number of animals that will likely not be present during the busy summer season. As for traffic on the trail: it was busy, but it will only be getting busier as the season progresses, so get out there to avoid the rush while you can!

Nevada Fall, Spring 2012

Happy Isles Trail Junction to Cloud’s Rest, Yosemite National Park, Part II

Looking back toward Yosemite Valley and Half Dome from the CR Trail

Directions to Cloud’s Rest Continued:

From Little Yosemite Valley, take the trail junction North towards Half Dome. From this point, you will be under constant tree coverage until you break treeline around nine thousand feet several miles up the trail. Depending on what time of day or year this is, you may be around a fair number of people heading up or down from Half Dome. After you have gone 1.5 miles, there will be a turnoff for Cloud’s Rest and the Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Since this trail report is about Cloud’s Rest, it should be obvious what to do here: take the turnoff and keep heading uphill. For the next half mile (.5), you will see a number of campsites that backpackers have made for treks into the High Country, and for overnight ascents of Half Dome.

If you are feeling tired after this first five miles, and hey, with a backpack, and having ascended that far, this is not a bad place to stay, should you have the time on your permit, and or the inclination to stop. It is also worth noting that after this point, there are less flat areas for an extended stretch off trail, so you are likely committed to reaching the summit (or an area just below) unless you like sleeping on sloped terrain. After this half mile stretch, you will see another trail junction which will take you to the Sunrise High Sierra Camp, and destinations North. If that’s where you want to go, head that way, otherwise, stay on the trail you are on toward Cloud’s Rest.

 Not a bad spot to camp near the summit of Cloud's Rest

From this junction, is it five miles to the summit of Cloud’s Rest. I have been up and down Mt. Whitney in a day. I have been up and down many fourteeners, and higher peaks in single and multiple days. I have backpacked over many mountain ranges, and I have to say that in my experience, the first three or so miles of the remaining five are one of the most brutal stretches I have backpacked through . Rest assured, the trail through this section is well graded, marked, and not overly steep.  But...every time I have headed through this section of trail, it has felt to me like it takes freaking forever. Offhand, I can think of several reasons for this – if you started in the valley the same day, at this point you are a probably a little tired from the elevation gain and distance. Second, while the scenery is beautiful, it is also your standard Sierra Nevada forest, with nothing extraordinary visible for a couple miles. So, if you are in this stretch of trail and it feels like it is taking forever, don’t worry – it probably is – or at least that’s how it feels.

After you traverse this portion, however, you will be rewarded with an amazing view. As you approach the 9,000 foot mark, the trees will thin, leaving you on a series of switchbacks with views facing West interspersed by lone pines, and an increasingly small Half Dome. After these switchbacks, the trail straightens out, and levels out somewhat just above 9,000 feet. Here, on the shoulder of the mountain, you’ll find a great spot to camp for the night. There are a number of freestanding glacial boulders, and you’ll find a number of spots that have been packed down on the loose granite shelf. This is where I usually stay, and where I stayed in 2009. I’d say the only better spot to sleep on this trip is the summit of Cloud’s Rest itself. If it’s summertime, be prepared for this area to be fairly popular among backpackers, meaning there might be 4-5 other people there; wintertime, you’ll be lucky if you see another person.

Sunrise over the Clark Range

Depending on the time of day, and time of year, you may want to drop your bag and gear before heading for the summit, which is less than a half mile (.5) from this spot. If it’s late in the day, and you feel like taking it easy, you’ll be able to set up camp easily, and watch the sun set behind Half Dome, while watching Mt. Starr King and Mt. Clark to the South. If you decide to relax, the summit of Cloud’s Rest is a great place to watch the sunrise (as is the above mentioned campsite). It is worth noting that should you elect to sleep on the summit of Cloud’s Rest as I have done, it is an exposed granite area that is basically 10,000 feet (9,926, come on, that’s basically 10K!) that gets quite windy, and has a steep drop off on the Tenaya Canyon side. From the summit, there are great panoramic views of the park. Should you stay at the summit, or the high camp I mention, you’ll be treated to a great sunrise; and great stargazing. Once you’re done on the summit, and if you only have the two day permit I mentioned, you can either make camp for the night, or begin your trek back into the valley. Either way, I guarantee that you’ll have an excellent time summiting this peak, and a relaxing short backpack.

Tips: Remember, there may be no water sources available after Little Yosemite Valley, especially if it is late season, and no snow is present. Be sure to carry plenty of water after that point.

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.summitpost.org/clouds-rest/150422, http://gurmeet.net/hiking/yosemite-national-park-clouds-rest/, http://hiking.polarhaven.net/hike.php?id=69, 

Happy Isles Trail Junction to Cloud’s Rest

Switchbacks up the side of Nevada Fall

The great thing about Happy Isles (seriously) is that it is the jumping off point not just for day hikes, but for many multi-day trips into the backcountry from Yosemite Valley. Over ninety-five percent of Yosemite is designated as wilderness, meaning that there are few roads other than trails, and that one must hike to get to these pristine locations. If the Mist Trail is the most popular day hike from Happy Isles, the most popular long distance/multi-day hike is Half Dome. In my opinion, Half Dome is just a day hike (18 miles roundtrip), but it is also a popular overnight destination, with many people electing to climb into Little Yosemite Valley to spend the night before rising early to summit the next day. Half Dome is so popular that at this point, both day use and overnight visitors are required to get permits.  

Like Yosemite, there isn’t much I can say about Half Dome that hasn’t been said. It has obtained a mythic place in hiking lore, and many people want to try their luck at a summit bid, assuming they get a permit. For me personally, Half Dome is just alright. I felt safer climbing the Snake Dike route with ropes to the summit rather than ascending the cables over slick granite with no protection, surrounded by hordes of tired and untrained people.( http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Half-Dome-Snake-Dike) Then again, going up the cables on Half Dome is a bit of a thrill that if you’re wilderness oriented, probably should be experienced at least once in a lifetime. At some point, I’ll talk more about summiting Half Dome, but for now, know that you need a permit, and that it is a bit of a long day. For my money, however, there’s a better hike from Happy Isles that takes you to a higher mountain with less people, and that is the hike to Cloud’s Rest.

Merced River, a good place to fill up those bottles (after treating the water, of course!)

Cloud’s Rest is the highest peak in the Tenaya Canyon region of the park at 9,926 feet, and in my opinion, has one of the best views in the park, along with Sentinel Dome, Mt. Hoffman, and Mt. Dana. From the summit, you have a sheer drop-off view of Tenaya Canyon beneath you, a small Half Dome (1,100 feet shorter, at 8,836 feet), and the high country of the park to the North, East, and South. If those credentials weren’t good enough, every time I’ve been at the top, I’ve seen next to no people, and it’s a great place to camp and stargaze. Then again, if you want to sulk about not getting your Half Dome or overnight Little Yosemite Valley permit and stay home, I’m not going to complain about having a beautiful area to all to myself.

It’s worth noting that if you don’t want to climb the nearly 6,000 vertical feet from Yosemite Valley to Cloud’s Rest, you can head toward the peak from a number of trails leaving the Tioga Pass Road. While I am used to doing this hike as a minimum two-day backpack based on my experience, I’m not going to rule out certain motivated individuals doing it in a day – after all, it is only twenty-two miles roundtrip, and I, along with many people have done that distance to summit Mt. Whitney in a day, which is four thousand feet higher. If you’ve got the skill, endurance, and want a challenge (as this would be a strenuous day), I say go for it. If not, get a backcountry permit, and take your time to enjoy the backcountry. This would be a great two-day introductory backpack that would allow you also to bag a fairly tall peak, so there’s yet another bonus for heading up to Cloud’s Rest.

Directions: Head over to Happy Isles (Shuttle Stop #16). From there, follow either the Mist Trail as detailed here (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html) to Vernal Falls, and then to Nevada Falls, or take the John Muir Trail junction to Nevada Falls, as detailed here (). Either way, you will be ready for your first break once you reach the top of Nevada Falls, having climbed 2,900 vertical feet from Yosemite Valley in three miles. I’d recommend that you take a minute, eat some high calorie food, enjoy the view, and wipe the sweat off your brow before heading onward, into Little Yosemite Valley.

Atop the switchbacks, .75 miles out from the peak.

Once your break is over, you will head Northeast into Little Yosemite Valley. This mile long section of the trail is a great spot to regain your pace, and catch your second wind of the day before you once again start heading uphill. You will be passing the Merced for most of this section, and this is important to note, because it is a great spot to refill your water bottles. From mid-summer to early winter, this may be the last best source of water for the next day for you, as there are no large bodies of water present on the trail after Little Yosemite Valley. Unless there is snow on the trail that you can melt; or you have confirmed that there is still seasonal runoff that you can filter, I would highly recommend you drink up and fill up all of your bottles before proceeding any further, otherwise you may be spending a very thirsty night on the mountain.

Since this hike takes two days, I’ll continue tomorrow with my directions! Until then, see you on the trail!

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Summer)

The start of the "Mist Trail" proper

So, you’ve been warned. Not just by me, but by every guide book, blog, friends, and family. You’ve heard the horror stories. You’ve listened to the not-so-dire-warnings. For whatever reason, you really, really want to do the Mist Trail in the summer. I could tell you tales that would curdle your blood, that a majority of park service rescues occur on the Mist Trail in the summertime, or that the majority of deaths that occur in the park occur on this section of the trail (mostly from people falling over the falls), or that hungry bears regularly carry off unsuspecting tourists from the trail and eat them to fatten up for the winter, and you’d still want to do the Mist Trail in the summer. 

And you know what? I’m not going to tell you not to. There’s plenty of reasons why you want to do it in the summer. First, the best time to see the fall is right after the snow melts, when it seems like there is more water in the Merced River than it can possibly accommodate. Second, summertime is vacation time, and any time you’re on vacation, it’s the time to have an adventure, regardless of whole else is there. Third, like it or not, Happy Isles/the Mist Trail/the beginning of the John Muir Trail is the gateway to many backpacking and multi-day adventures. And fourth, why the heck not – it’s there!

Directions: Same as the last two posts. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html)

 Vernal Falls, 2002

Tips: The best tip I can give you is to get an early start. Even then, you won’t beat the crowds. You will, however, beat the hordes. If you are heading up the trail around 10:00 a.m. through 3:00 p.m., expect to be backpack-to-backpack the whole way with other people. The other reason to get a good start: you will avoid being caught out in a late-afternoon thunderstorm.

The next best tip I can give you is to wear solid shoes. Yes, the stairs of the Mist Trail can be traversed in bare feet, thong sandals, Chaco’s, tevas, high heels, and completely destroyed sneakers. But, just because you can do it, doesn’t mean you have to. In the summertime, the trail is completely covered with water, which makes the granite slick, and your footing uncertain. In many spots, should you slip, you will experience a near fatal to fatal fall, even though the terrain is not that daunting. I say: why risk it? Wear something you’ll be comfortable in, and something that you can trust. Furthermore, as the trail is crowded, you will be forced into weird positions as people run past you, or descend in front of you. You’re better off with something that will keep your footing secure, and your feet happy.

Additionally, if you want to be happy, insulate your gear properly whether you’re backpacking or daypacking. The last thing you want is a completely ruined camera or cell phone, or a completely soaked sleeping bag on the first night of your trip. Along with insulating your gear, bring a good coat should you not want to be completely soaked on the ascent and descent. Then again, if it’s a blazing hot day, don’t bring a coat, it’ll feel great to be naturally cooled!

Vernal Falls, 2007 

As my final tip, I will say this: watch out for rodents. Squirrels, chipmunks, and other small woodland creatures know the Mist Trail almost as well as people do. Should you leave your bag unattended at the top of the falls, or at certain other spots on the trail, you will likely find that you have picked up a furry hitchhiker, who will either jump out of your bag, giving you heart palpitations, poo in your bag (nasty), or chew their way out of your bag. Avoid this problem by watching your surroundings, and not feeding the animals.

Things Not To Do: There’s probably plenty, but I’ll stick to the one that is guaranteed to end your life. At the top of Vernal Falls, there is a fence that is at the end of the granite and anywhere between no inches and two feet from the top of the waterfall, depending on the water flow. The fence extends back up the river a fair ways, and then stops. Do not, under any circumstances climb over the fence. Let me make this even more clear: do not climb over this fence if you want to live. This isn’t just me telling you this – there are NPS signs all over the fence warning you. This isn’t just NPS telling you this either, this is your common sense speaking. When you are at the top of the falls, you can see for yourself: this is a several hundred foot drop. The waterfall is right there. The river is flowing rapidly. Should you step over that fence, you know that you will likely be dead. It is not worth the risk in any way. I don’t care how hot it is, how much fun it looks, how daring you are, how lucky you are, how funny it is, it’s just not worth it. I used to warn/lecture people when I worked there, and I still do (in an unofficial capacity now, kind of lame, I know). Don’t take it from me though: there’s plenty of stories this year about people who didn’t make it: (http://www.cnn.com/2011/12/05/us/california-yosemite-body-recovered/index.html?hpt=hp_t3). So, out of all the things you should not do: don’t do that.

 Vernal Falls Single Rainbow

Other than that lecture, have a great time, and see you on the trail!

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Winter)

Looking towards Illouette, Mist Trail 2010

There is one trailhead, and one trailhead only in Yosemite. At least, that is what you would think if you ever read anything about Yosemite, heard anything about Yosemite, or watched the hordes of people either walking or riding park shuttles to this spot. That spot, and that trailhead is, and can only be one place: Happy Isles. That is the trailhead that takes you to a number of stunning places, but most importantly, it takes you to the two most visited destinations in the park: the Mist Trail , and Half Dome. Astute readers of this blog will stop at this point and think, “Wait a minute. So-and-so said the Mist Trail was the best hike they’d ever been on. How can that be, if he just said that it’s one of the most visited trails in the park? Can that be right?”

To those astute readers, I have sad news. The Mist Trail is the most popular trail in the park, bar none.

On a hot summer day, the trail is always chock full of people just as Los Angeles freeways are always chock full of cars. I guarantee it. Even more damning (to some people), the trail is – wait for it – partially paved. Now, if these two things are deal breakers for you, read no further, but at least look at the pretty pictures I’ve attached, because the scenery is beautiful. For the rest of us, let me tell you this: yes, the Mist Trail is the most popular trail. Yes, you may be surrounded by people, and yes, that can be difficult at times. But the hike is still stunning. It is a chance to walk directly next to, and under Vernal Falls, alongside the Merced River, and to the top of the falls, where great views of Yosemite Valley, Liberty Cap, along with other portions of the park. It is the most popular trail, and hike: but it is that way for a reason. You should not not hike it just because it is popular, as this is one of those situations where the masses are right.

Snowmelt on the Mist Trail, 2010

Directions: Well, you’re going to leave from the Happy Isles trailhead. I believe I mentioned that somewhere, but in case I didn’t, you’re going to take the Happy Isles trailhead. You can either take the free park shuttle to that location (Stop Number 16), or you can potentially find parking at Curry Village, and walk from there (if you walk from Curry Village, add an extra .75 miles distance each way, for a roundtrip distance bonus of 1.5 miles). From the trailhead, follow the paved portion uphill (believe me, you will not get lost, as you will be around many people, and there are no turnouts) for .75 miles to the bridge crossing the Merced River. From the bridge, you can see Vernal Fall, and if you’re feeling it, this is a great place to stop and watch the Merced and the waterfall.

For the hiking purists, from this point, the trail is not paved. Once you are across the bridge, you will continue to follow the trail up, and you will pass the John Muir Trail (“JMT”) junction on your right (.2 miles from the bridge). Do not take the JMT unless you are going to Nevada Falls, or other destinations that are further away, such as Mt. Whitney. Once you pass the JMT junction, you will come upon a gate for the Mist Trail that is closed in winter. This is the actual portion of the Mist trail, and from this point, you will get wet.

Heading up the Mist Trail in 2010The last section of the trail traverses alongside the Merced River, and is right next to and under Vernal Falls. This section of trail is constantly deluged/soaked/drenched with water from the falls. Unless it is a drought year, or a part of the year where the falls are not raging, you, your gear, and everything on you, will get wet. Watch your step as you head up the 600 or so steps up the remaining .5 miles to the top of the waterfall. Once you are at the top, you will have a great view of the Merced from the edge of the waterfall. From there, you can either proceed up to Nevada Falls, and Little Yosemite Valley, or you can return back to Happy Isles the way you came.

My Tip: As this is the most popular hike in the park, and is beyond well known, I’d suggest that you do this hike during the off-season if you can. If you are in the park in late spring, fall, or early winter, you will find the trail mostly empty. Moreover, at these times, you will find that you enjoy this hike more than being stuck with hordes of people on the trail in the summer. In 2010, I hiked up the Mist Trail in late November, a week after a fresh snowfall, and had an amazing experience. As you can see from the absence of people in these photos, in those conditions, it did not look like the most popular trail in the park, but it did look like a winter wonderland.

Disclaimer: The National Park Service closes the last .5 miles of the Mist Trail in the dead of winter as it is a treacherous ascent with ice and snow. I would not recommend you proceed in these conditions as there is little to no room for error. However, if you feel like you are up to the task, bring the proper gear, know that you are on your own, and watch this video here: http://youtu.be/ybrDF3wCdMU

Vernal Fall, Winter 2010

Other Facts:  The hike is 3 miles roundtrip, plus or minus any distance you add from hiking from Curry Village or other destinations. You will gain 1,000 feet of elevation from the valley floor to the top of the falls, and you will likely have an excellent time! (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm)

See you on the trail!

 Hiking Superhighway? Not in winter!

More Information: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/mist-trail/mist-trail.htm,  http://timberlinetrails.net/YosemiteMistTrail.html, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Happy-Isles-topo-map.jpg, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mist_Trail