Cinder Cone Natural Area, Mojave National Preserve

Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area

I don’t know about you, but when I think “Volcano”, I don’t think desert. But, more often than not, there’s evidence of volcanism in the deserts of Southern California. From the Ubehebe Crater in Death Valley (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/3/1/ubehebe-crater-death-valley-national-park.html) to Banshee Canyon in Hole-in-the-Wall (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/10/ring-loop-trail-mojave-national-preserve.html), there’s remnants of ancient volcanoes and their eruptions. To me, one of the neat things about these ancient volcanoes is the different types of rocks they leave behind, and the different types of terrain that they have produced. The other great thing about these areas of volcanism is that they provide great opportunities for exploring.

The Cinder Cone Natural Area is one of these volcanic areas that is basically designed for exploring. Stretching for miles and miles, the area is located directly off Kelbaker Road in the Mojave National Preserve. The area has over twenty cinder cones, and large ancient lava flows. It is a place where you can wander around marveling at the various rocks, or, if you wish to off-road a little bit, an area where you can head out to discover lava tubes and discover what lies within them.

Directions: The Cinder Cone Natural area is located sixteen miles South of Baker. From the I-15, exit Kelbaker Road, and follow it for sixteen miles south south-east. At sixteen miles, you will notice a black basalt line to the East, delineating some of the lava flows present in the area. At this point, you can either pull off the road, and hike approximately one to two miles to the base of the lava flows, where you can explore from there, or you can take one of the many dirt pullouts and off-road on one of the trails to the base of the lava flows.

 Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area

Do note that the area is full of soft sand, and I would recommend that you have either all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive should you attempt to off-road in this region. When I was there, I drove out on one of the off-road trails toward the base of the lava flow in a non-4WD/AWD vehicle, and quickly realized that I would be better off hiking than becoming potentially stuck and stranded. If you want to explore lava tubes, you’ll want to follow Kelbaker Road nineteen miles south from Baker, until you reach the Aiken Mine Road. Once you turn onto the Aiken Mine Road, it is approximately four miles to the East on an unpaved sandy off-road trail.

Tips: Travel in the Mojave National Preserve is not without risk as there are large expanses without basic services, including water and gasoline. Moreover, while the National Park Service maintains the roads to the best of their ability, they are a bit rougher than you would expect in certain places. As noted above, if you are planning on going off-roading, be sure to have a vehicle that can handle the challenges of the terrain. It is also important to note that there is limited to no cellular service within the Preserve, and in many areas, GPS units do not function well. Plan accordingly, and make sure to have the proper equipment, including maps and plenty of water when you head out to explore.

 

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/upload/Cinder_Cones_SB_Bl_LowRes.pdf, http://www.nature.nps.gov/geology/usgsnps/mojave/cinder1.html, http://www.nature.nps.gov/nnl/site.cfm?Site=CICO-CA, http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2004/1007/volcanic.html

Ring Loop Trail, Mojave National Preserve

The infamous "Rings Climb" - dun dun dunnnnn

Every National Park has its own signature “must-do” hike. In Yosemite, it’s the Mist Trail and Half Dome. In Zion National Park, it’s Angels Landing. And, in the Mojave National Preserve, the signature hike is probably the Rings Climb/Ring Loop Trail. I say “probably” because I have to admit that I’m a big fan of hiking around the Kelso Dunes when I’m in the Preserve; and in my mind, it’s a tough call deciding between the two. However, in terms of pure hiking, I’m going to have to stick with my initial call: the Rings Climb/Ring Loop Trail is the signature hike of the Preserve.

Directions: The Rings Loop Trail leaves from one of two locations located at the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center parking lot. There is a trail entrance located at the East side of the parking lot, near the entrance, and another trailhead located at the picnic area at the North end of the Visitor Center lot. I’d personally recommend that you start your hike at the East trailhead in the Visitor Center parking lot. The trail is well marked from this point, and you have a clear, flat first quarter mile before you arrive at a grouping of boulders with petroglyphs on them. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/9/hole-in-the-wall-petroglyphs.html ). It is precisely for this reason that I recommend leaving from this trailhead rather than the other, as you are more likely to spot the petroglyphs than if you are approaching from the opposite direction. (However, if you’re particularly observant, and looking for them, I am sure that you will find them no matter which direction you travel).

Mid-Banshee CanyonAfter the petroglyphs, the trail continues for another half mile (.5) on mostly flat terrain, winding slightly to the North. At three quarters (.75) of a mile total distance, you will get great views of the opening to Banshee Canyon. From this angle, it looks like a fanciful castle with windows, turrets, and other openings. The trail then heads slightly uphill into Banshee Canyon, leaving you in the middle of the phantasmagorical rock formations that Hole-in-the-Wall is named for. These rock formations are the byproducts of an ancient volcanic eruption, which scorched the surrounding desert millions of years ago. Today, the various holes, openings, and other formations look like anything you can imagine.

Once you’ve taken an appropriate amount of time to admire the geologic features, you’re likely going to want to find your way out of Banshee Canyon (named for the howling sound the canyon makes in high winds, naturally). To the South is a slight slot that ends in a straight vertical wall with carved/worn hand and footholds. While this is an exit, it’s meant for climbers, and not the average NPS visitor. (I checked it out, and found it to be a good workout!). To the North, the NPS trail heads up another slot, until you reach the signature point – the rings.

 First set of "rings"

The rings are simply that – metal rings that NPS has installed into the rock walls of the canyon. They are divided into two separate sections. The first section is steep, but at this point, the rings are placed to give a person more of an assist hiking, rather than being needed to actually ascend this portion of the trail. However, the second section of rings heads up a short rock wall, and are needed to actually climb up a section before hiking out.

Now, here’s where discerning readers will ask the thousand dollar question: Just how tough/dangerous is the ring area? Should I attempt it? First, let me give you the NPS answer (as I am former NPS employee): everyone should do what they feel comfortable with; and not try anything outside their comfort/skill level that will leave them in danger. Second, let me give you the LA answer: most people can do this. Yes, a fall from the first section would cause bruising or a broken bone at worst, while a fall from the second section could definitely result in something worse. Having said that, I’ve been on the cables at Half Dome, and the route on Angels Landing, both of which are NPS approved trails, and these Rings are easy compared to those risks. Things to note: the canyon through the ring section is somewhat narrow, so if you are a bit larger, you may feel that it is a tight fit. (I note that I am not a big person, nor small, but average sized, and I found it a bit tight in a spot or two). Also, if you are concerned about people passing up and or down, this is probably not the spot for you, especially if you’re a little claustrophobic.

 Second set of "rings"

Having said all of those important but serious things, I will also note that the rings are fun. I saw older people climbing them (70+) and junior mountaineers climbing and descending them with ease. And that is why I would call this hike a must-do and the signature hike of the Preserve – it’s fun, there’s great scenery, and you get to adventure up and down the canyons a little bit. From the rings, it’s probably a tenth of a mile (.10) to the trailhead by the picnic area, and a great overlook of the Hole-in-the-Wall formations. The loop is a mile in length total, so this hike is accessible at any time for just about anyone.

Tips: Did I mention there’s petroglyphs? (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/9/hole-in-the-wall-petroglyphs.html) I think I did. Other than that, I’d recommend heading out at night (with proper lighting, of course) to view Banshee Canyon for a unique view of the formations under the moonlight.

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/-hiking.htm, http://www.birdandhike.com/Hike/MOJA/Rings_Trail/_Rings_Trail.htm, http://www.hikespeak.com/trails/hole-in-the-wall-rings-trail-in-mojave-national-preserve/, http://articles.latimes.com/2012/jan/08/travel/la-tr-mojave-20120108

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main Boulder

If I said to you, "Riddle me this, Bat-boy, which is the third largest national park/preserve in the lower forty eight states?", you'd probably pause for a minute, and respond with, "Yellowstone", "Yosemite", "Grand Canyon", or maybe if you were feeling erudite, "Big Bend". But you'd be wrong: the answer is the Mojave National Preserve. (http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/index.htm). In this respect, Mojave National Preserve ("MNP") is probably the stealthist park in the National Park Service network, which is quite a feat considering how large it is! While I can't say exactly why this is - perhaps it's because it loses visitors to its more popular siblings, Joshua Tree and Death Valley, to its South and North, respectively; or perhaps its because it's in a remote area (halfway between Las Vegas and halfway between Los Angeles); what I can say for sure is that it's full of interesting items and adventures. 

For example: the Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs. These petroglyphs are located within a quarter of a mile (.25) from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center on the Ring Loop Trail, and yet, are relatively unknown, undiscovered, and even on a weekend, berefit of visitors. These petroglyphs are roughly ten to twelve thousand years old from what I've been told, and from what I saw, are in good condition, considering they are on some exposed boulders, and have likely been visited by thousands of people. 

Directions: Take the Ring Loop Trail from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center. Follow the trail South/Southeast for a quarter of a mile (.25). Before the trail turns West, there will be a grouping of boulders. The petroglyphs are on the main face of a larger boulder, but smaller groupings appear on other boulders in the cluster.

Tips: The petroglyphs are faint in places, and if you are booking along, and not paying attention to your desert surroundings, you will pass them easily. Take your time, and scan the exposed rock faces as you pass by. In addition, should you want a good 360 degree view of the surrounding hole in the wall region, the hill above the boulders can be scrambled up easily for a great view! It's also worth noting that the interpretive rangers at Hole-in-the-Wall are conducting programs about the petroglyphs once a week, at this point, occurring on Saturdays (check with the Visitor Center should you visit to ensure that this is still the correct day when you visit). And, as it is the desert, do take plenty of water, and be respectful of the ancient art that exists on these rocks.

 Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main BoulderHole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

Hole-in-the-Wall PetroglyphsMore Information:http://www.summitpost.org/petroglyph-rock/356484/c-356444, http://www.summitpost.org/petroglyphs-near-hole-in-the-wall/175899, http://www.nationalparksblog.com/petroglyphs-hole-in-the-wall-mojave-national-preserve/, http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/-hiking.htm