Mist Trail to Nevada Fall, Yosemite National Park (2012)

Vernal Fall, Spring 2012

After I wrote a couple articles about the Mist Trail last year (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html), I received a number of e-mails wondering when the best time was to hike the Mist Trail. In all honesty, I’d say now what I said then – anytime is the best time to hike the Mist Trail to either Vernal or Nevada Fall. However, for 2012, if you are looking to experience “the mist” and want to get wet, now would be the best time to hike the Mist Trail.

The reason right now is the best time to do this hike is simple: the snowpack is already melting. As I’ve said on many occasions this year, 2012 was a bad year for the Sierra snowpack as California has had a warm winter. At this point, from about two weeks ago until mid-summer, what snow was present at the higher elevations will be melting – and at times, melting rapidly. This means that this year, from mid-to late summer, the rivers and seasonal flows will be running at a low level, or not at all. When rivers and other seasonal flows are at a low level, what waterfalls that exist flow at a low level, or not at all.

Mist Trail, Spring 2012

So, if you want to get wet, now, is the time to go for 2012, before all of the snowpack melts. When I was recently in Yosemite, I hiked the Mist Trail up to a tenth of a mile under Nevada Falls. I would have gone all the way up to Nevada Falls and come back down the John Muir Trail, but earlier in the day I had been hiking in another area of the park, and at that point, was perfectly content to take it a little easy.

From what I saw on my hike, the trail is in good to excellent condition, with few dead trees and branches on the trail to Nevada Fall. No snow remains on any section of the trail to Nevada Fall, and from my observations of that area as well as other areas of the park, the snowline is running at ~8500 feet or higher, depending on the sun exposure of the area. As conditions are warm, and only going to get warmer, it’s a great time to get out and do this hike!

Directions: As noted in previous articles, you’re going to either want to take the Yosemite Park Bus to Happy Isles, where the trailhead for the Mist Trail is, or you’re going to want to bike or walk there. Further directions on distances and everything else can be found here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html .

More Tips: Another good reason to hike this trail this time of year is the opportunity to see wildlife – on my recent hike, I saw a number of animals that will likely not be present during the busy summer season. As for traffic on the trail: it was busy, but it will only be getting busier as the season progresses, so get out there to avoid the rush while you can!

Nevada Fall, Spring 2012

Cross Country Skiing Yosemite Valley

Fresh powder in El Capitan Meadow

The best time to visit Yosemite Valley is the winter. Sure, the valley is spectacular in the summer, and there is never a bad time to visit Yosemite, but if you want to avoid the crowds, the best time is the winter. In the winter, the snow falls on the granite monoliths surrounding the valley before trickling down to blanket the trees and floor in white silence. In the winter, everything moves at a slow and tranquil rate – including the Merced River. The coating of ice and cold silences summer’s lingering noise and lets Yosemite Valley recapture its wild glory.

The best way to see this primal beauty? On foot, of course. You can walk part – or all of the Valley Floor loop (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm), or if you’re extraordinarily lucky as I was last year in 2010, you can cross country ski around the valley. (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wintersports.htm) Now, as the NPS link states, there is rarely enough accumulation in the valley proper to do this, but sometimes, the internet doesn’t know everything. 2010 was a banner year for snow in the Sierras, and when I arrived in Yosemite for my yearly fall visit last November, I found myself arriving a day after several feet of fresh powder had been deposited over the entirety of the park.

Obviously, I was lucky – my timing was impeccable. These conditions existed on a Wednesday, and the storm had just passed the day before on a Tuesday, leaving perfect cold bluebird conditions at all elevations. There were few people in the park; and fewer still in the valley, where I parked my car alongside the road before strapping on my skis. To be honest, I felt a little guilty cutting fresh tracks across pristine, empty meadows under the mountains watchful eyes; and I was upbraided at one point by a raven for being too noisy as I passed alongside the burbling Merced; but in the end, it was an amazing experience. The valley was deathly silent from El Capitan meadow to points East and West, and I was able to again appreciate the timeless stillness of Yosemite Valley that has captivated people for centuries. And, if the photos don’t give you an idea of what the valley looks like when its deathly silent, this video will: http://youtu.be/PbV0gFTjcR0

 Fresh powder in Yosemite Valley

My Tip: If you are arriving in Yosemite after a recent snowfall, take a moment to see what the conditions are in the valley. It’s a great spot for beginners to learn as it is flat; and it’s a great spot to cross country ski regardless because of the natural features. Obviously, as Yosemite Valley only has an elevation of 4,000 feet, there will be a limited amount of opportunities to ski the valley, but if you’re lucky enough, I’d definitely recommend it for a good morning warm-up before heading on to more difficult terrain at Badger Pass or Crane Flat. The most open expanses are down by El Capitan meadow; but should there be enough snow, you should be able to tour most of the valley as I did.

See you in the powder!

Happy Isles Trail Junction to Cloud’s Rest, Yosemite National Park, Part II

Looking back toward Yosemite Valley and Half Dome from the CR Trail

Directions to Cloud’s Rest Continued:

From Little Yosemite Valley, take the trail junction North towards Half Dome. From this point, you will be under constant tree coverage until you break treeline around nine thousand feet several miles up the trail. Depending on what time of day or year this is, you may be around a fair number of people heading up or down from Half Dome. After you have gone 1.5 miles, there will be a turnoff for Cloud’s Rest and the Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Since this trail report is about Cloud’s Rest, it should be obvious what to do here: take the turnoff and keep heading uphill. For the next half mile (.5), you will see a number of campsites that backpackers have made for treks into the High Country, and for overnight ascents of Half Dome.

If you are feeling tired after this first five miles, and hey, with a backpack, and having ascended that far, this is not a bad place to stay, should you have the time on your permit, and or the inclination to stop. It is also worth noting that after this point, there are less flat areas for an extended stretch off trail, so you are likely committed to reaching the summit (or an area just below) unless you like sleeping on sloped terrain. After this half mile stretch, you will see another trail junction which will take you to the Sunrise High Sierra Camp, and destinations North. If that’s where you want to go, head that way, otherwise, stay on the trail you are on toward Cloud’s Rest.

 Not a bad spot to camp near the summit of Cloud's Rest

From this junction, is it five miles to the summit of Cloud’s Rest. I have been up and down Mt. Whitney in a day. I have been up and down many fourteeners, and higher peaks in single and multiple days. I have backpacked over many mountain ranges, and I have to say that in my experience, the first three or so miles of the remaining five are one of the most brutal stretches I have backpacked through . Rest assured, the trail through this section is well graded, marked, and not overly steep.  But...every time I have headed through this section of trail, it has felt to me like it takes freaking forever. Offhand, I can think of several reasons for this – if you started in the valley the same day, at this point you are a probably a little tired from the elevation gain and distance. Second, while the scenery is beautiful, it is also your standard Sierra Nevada forest, with nothing extraordinary visible for a couple miles. So, if you are in this stretch of trail and it feels like it is taking forever, don’t worry – it probably is – or at least that’s how it feels.

After you traverse this portion, however, you will be rewarded with an amazing view. As you approach the 9,000 foot mark, the trees will thin, leaving you on a series of switchbacks with views facing West interspersed by lone pines, and an increasingly small Half Dome. After these switchbacks, the trail straightens out, and levels out somewhat just above 9,000 feet. Here, on the shoulder of the mountain, you’ll find a great spot to camp for the night. There are a number of freestanding glacial boulders, and you’ll find a number of spots that have been packed down on the loose granite shelf. This is where I usually stay, and where I stayed in 2009. I’d say the only better spot to sleep on this trip is the summit of Cloud’s Rest itself. If it’s summertime, be prepared for this area to be fairly popular among backpackers, meaning there might be 4-5 other people there; wintertime, you’ll be lucky if you see another person.

Sunrise over the Clark Range

Depending on the time of day, and time of year, you may want to drop your bag and gear before heading for the summit, which is less than a half mile (.5) from this spot. If it’s late in the day, and you feel like taking it easy, you’ll be able to set up camp easily, and watch the sun set behind Half Dome, while watching Mt. Starr King and Mt. Clark to the South. If you decide to relax, the summit of Cloud’s Rest is a great place to watch the sunrise (as is the above mentioned campsite). It is worth noting that should you elect to sleep on the summit of Cloud’s Rest as I have done, it is an exposed granite area that is basically 10,000 feet (9,926, come on, that’s basically 10K!) that gets quite windy, and has a steep drop off on the Tenaya Canyon side. From the summit, there are great panoramic views of the park. Should you stay at the summit, or the high camp I mention, you’ll be treated to a great sunrise; and great stargazing. Once you’re done on the summit, and if you only have the two day permit I mentioned, you can either make camp for the night, or begin your trek back into the valley. Either way, I guarantee that you’ll have an excellent time summiting this peak, and a relaxing short backpack.

Tips: Remember, there may be no water sources available after Little Yosemite Valley, especially if it is late season, and no snow is present. Be sure to carry plenty of water after that point.

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.summitpost.org/clouds-rest/150422, http://gurmeet.net/hiking/yosemite-national-park-clouds-rest/, http://hiking.polarhaven.net/hike.php?id=69, 

Happy Isles Trail Junction to Cloud’s Rest

Switchbacks up the side of Nevada Fall

The great thing about Happy Isles (seriously) is that it is the jumping off point not just for day hikes, but for many multi-day trips into the backcountry from Yosemite Valley. Over ninety-five percent of Yosemite is designated as wilderness, meaning that there are few roads other than trails, and that one must hike to get to these pristine locations. If the Mist Trail is the most popular day hike from Happy Isles, the most popular long distance/multi-day hike is Half Dome. In my opinion, Half Dome is just a day hike (18 miles roundtrip), but it is also a popular overnight destination, with many people electing to climb into Little Yosemite Valley to spend the night before rising early to summit the next day. Half Dome is so popular that at this point, both day use and overnight visitors are required to get permits.  

Like Yosemite, there isn’t much I can say about Half Dome that hasn’t been said. It has obtained a mythic place in hiking lore, and many people want to try their luck at a summit bid, assuming they get a permit. For me personally, Half Dome is just alright. I felt safer climbing the Snake Dike route with ropes to the summit rather than ascending the cables over slick granite with no protection, surrounded by hordes of tired and untrained people.( http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Half-Dome-Snake-Dike) Then again, going up the cables on Half Dome is a bit of a thrill that if you’re wilderness oriented, probably should be experienced at least once in a lifetime. At some point, I’ll talk more about summiting Half Dome, but for now, know that you need a permit, and that it is a bit of a long day. For my money, however, there’s a better hike from Happy Isles that takes you to a higher mountain with less people, and that is the hike to Cloud’s Rest.

Merced River, a good place to fill up those bottles (after treating the water, of course!)

Cloud’s Rest is the highest peak in the Tenaya Canyon region of the park at 9,926 feet, and in my opinion, has one of the best views in the park, along with Sentinel Dome, Mt. Hoffman, and Mt. Dana. From the summit, you have a sheer drop-off view of Tenaya Canyon beneath you, a small Half Dome (1,100 feet shorter, at 8,836 feet), and the high country of the park to the North, East, and South. If those credentials weren’t good enough, every time I’ve been at the top, I’ve seen next to no people, and it’s a great place to camp and stargaze. Then again, if you want to sulk about not getting your Half Dome or overnight Little Yosemite Valley permit and stay home, I’m not going to complain about having a beautiful area to all to myself.

It’s worth noting that if you don’t want to climb the nearly 6,000 vertical feet from Yosemite Valley to Cloud’s Rest, you can head toward the peak from a number of trails leaving the Tioga Pass Road. While I am used to doing this hike as a minimum two-day backpack based on my experience, I’m not going to rule out certain motivated individuals doing it in a day – after all, it is only twenty-two miles roundtrip, and I, along with many people have done that distance to summit Mt. Whitney in a day, which is four thousand feet higher. If you’ve got the skill, endurance, and want a challenge (as this would be a strenuous day), I say go for it. If not, get a backcountry permit, and take your time to enjoy the backcountry. This would be a great two-day introductory backpack that would allow you also to bag a fairly tall peak, so there’s yet another bonus for heading up to Cloud’s Rest.

Directions: Head over to Happy Isles (Shuttle Stop #16). From there, follow either the Mist Trail as detailed here (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html) to Vernal Falls, and then to Nevada Falls, or take the John Muir Trail junction to Nevada Falls, as detailed here (). Either way, you will be ready for your first break once you reach the top of Nevada Falls, having climbed 2,900 vertical feet from Yosemite Valley in three miles. I’d recommend that you take a minute, eat some high calorie food, enjoy the view, and wipe the sweat off your brow before heading onward, into Little Yosemite Valley.

Atop the switchbacks, .75 miles out from the peak.

Once your break is over, you will head Northeast into Little Yosemite Valley. This mile long section of the trail is a great spot to regain your pace, and catch your second wind of the day before you once again start heading uphill. You will be passing the Merced for most of this section, and this is important to note, because it is a great spot to refill your water bottles. From mid-summer to early winter, this may be the last best source of water for the next day for you, as there are no large bodies of water present on the trail after Little Yosemite Valley. Unless there is snow on the trail that you can melt; or you have confirmed that there is still seasonal runoff that you can filter, I would highly recommend you drink up and fill up all of your bottles before proceeding any further, otherwise you may be spending a very thirsty night on the mountain.

Since this hike takes two days, I’ll continue tomorrow with my directions! Until then, see you on the trail!

Mist Trail to Nevada Fall

Nevada Fall

One and one half miles of uphill ascent not enough of a workout for you? Looking to see more than one waterfall flowing from the power of the Merced River? Well, you’re in luck. There’s another waterfall directly above Vernal Falls, and it’s just as beautiful – if not more so than the first. How do you get there? Glad you asked.

Directions: Follow the Directions here: (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html) to the first bridge crossing before Vernal Fall. After this point, you have two choices on how exactly, you want to get to Nevada Fall.

The first way is up the Mist Trail, as described in the above link and the previous series of postings. Once you reach the top of Vernal Falls, the trail follows the Merced River back into the trees (roughly East) for half a mile (.50). At this point, the Emerald Pool will be directly to your North (left, if you are coming up from Vernal Falls). The Emerald Pool is a slow area of the Merced River flowing down to Vernal Falls (sometimes not, depending on how fast the current is moving and how high the River is – just the conditions accordingly should you decide to enter).

To your right (South) there will be trail junction that will take you up to the John Muir Trail (JMT) in .40 miles past Clark Point. Continue straight across the Merced, and you will find yourself heading uphill through a series of forested switchbacks at the base of Nevada Fall. After approximately .50 miles, you will be on a series of graded switchbacks on the North side of Nevada Fall and directly under Liberty Cap. For my money, this is a great view of Nevada Fall, and is equally – if not more stunning than the Mist Trail. At the top of the switchbacks, you can either proceed left (North) into Little Yosemite Valley, or to the Right (South) toward the area around the fall (approximately .10 miles). This last portion of the ascent is steep, and I guarantee you will be working up a sweat if you are carrying a multi-day bag. From the Emerald Pools, it is 1.05 miles to the top, and 1.15 miles to the actual fall, leaving you with 1.65 miles of distance one way from Vernal Falls to the top of Nevada Fall.

Nevada Fall

The area around the fall is solid granite, only interrupted by the Merced River, which has eroded a deep furrow in the rock over thousands of years. To cross the Merced, you have to utilize the NPS bridge, but you can walk down the granite slopes to overlook the fall cascading down into the valley you just ascended. Once you are done, you can return the way you came, or you can return back down the JMT as described in the following paragraph in a loop. From the top of the switchbacks, it is .40 miles to the JMT/Pohono Trail Junction, which will lead you back down toward the Valley.

The second way you can reach Nevada Fall is to turn off on the JMT after crossing the first bridge. The junction is approximately .10 miles to the right (South) as you are approaching the Mist Trail. The JMT runs from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney, and it takes backpackers approximately one month or longer to travel the distance as it heads South through the Sierra Nevada Mountain range. The first section of this challenging trail winds up a moderately graded series of forested switchbacks for .32 miles. If you are backpacking out of Yosemite Valley, you may want to consider this route as it is usually cooler and shadier than the busy Mist Trail. Once you have traversed the switchbacks, you will be up above the treeline, and on the edge of a stunning cliff that looks down upon the Merced, and waterfalls below. (In late spring or early winter, this section should be traversed with caution, as ice can build up along the area, and it would not be a good place to slip!) From this point, it is a gradual uphill climb for a mile (1.0) to the JMT/Pohono junction, and Nevada Fall described above. 

Both routes have great views; and it is hard to go wrong by heading either way. Personally, I’d recommend doing the whole route – Mist Trail to Vernal Fall, past the Emerald Pool, up to Nevada Fall, and returning to the valley by the JMT as a loop, but it will take you some time, as you will be gaining 2,900 feet of elevation from the valley floor to the top of Nevada Falls. Also, bear in mind that you will be hiking seven miles roundtrip should you head all the way up to Nevada Falls, plus any additional distance that you may tack on should you not ride the Yosemite Valley bus.

 Top of Nevada Falls, Merced River flowing into Yosemite Valley

Despite the distance, this is a great loop hike from the Valley, and a great way to see a lot of the scenery of the area. Once you pass Vernal Falls, the crowds dissipate somewhat in the summer, although both locations remain very popular.

See you on the trail!

More Information Here:

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm, http://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/mist-trail/mist-trail.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nevada_Fall