Cinder Cone Natural Area, Mojave National Preserve

Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area

I don’t know about you, but when I think “Volcano”, I don’t think desert. But, more often than not, there’s evidence of volcanism in the deserts of Southern California. From the Ubehebe Crater in Death Valley (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/3/1/ubehebe-crater-death-valley-national-park.html) to Banshee Canyon in Hole-in-the-Wall (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/10/ring-loop-trail-mojave-national-preserve.html), there’s remnants of ancient volcanoes and their eruptions. To me, one of the neat things about these ancient volcanoes is the different types of rocks they leave behind, and the different types of terrain that they have produced. The other great thing about these areas of volcanism is that they provide great opportunities for exploring.

The Cinder Cone Natural Area is one of these volcanic areas that is basically designed for exploring. Stretching for miles and miles, the area is located directly off Kelbaker Road in the Mojave National Preserve. The area has over twenty cinder cones, and large ancient lava flows. It is a place where you can wander around marveling at the various rocks, or, if you wish to off-road a little bit, an area where you can head out to discover lava tubes and discover what lies within them.

Directions: The Cinder Cone Natural area is located sixteen miles South of Baker. From the I-15, exit Kelbaker Road, and follow it for sixteen miles south south-east. At sixteen miles, you will notice a black basalt line to the East, delineating some of the lava flows present in the area. At this point, you can either pull off the road, and hike approximately one to two miles to the base of the lava flows, where you can explore from there, or you can take one of the many dirt pullouts and off-road on one of the trails to the base of the lava flows.

 Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area

Do note that the area is full of soft sand, and I would recommend that you have either all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive should you attempt to off-road in this region. When I was there, I drove out on one of the off-road trails toward the base of the lava flow in a non-4WD/AWD vehicle, and quickly realized that I would be better off hiking than becoming potentially stuck and stranded. If you want to explore lava tubes, you’ll want to follow Kelbaker Road nineteen miles south from Baker, until you reach the Aiken Mine Road. Once you turn onto the Aiken Mine Road, it is approximately four miles to the East on an unpaved sandy off-road trail.

Tips: Travel in the Mojave National Preserve is not without risk as there are large expanses without basic services, including water and gasoline. Moreover, while the National Park Service maintains the roads to the best of their ability, they are a bit rougher than you would expect in certain places. As noted above, if you are planning on going off-roading, be sure to have a vehicle that can handle the challenges of the terrain. It is also important to note that there is limited to no cellular service within the Preserve, and in many areas, GPS units do not function well. Plan accordingly, and make sure to have the proper equipment, including maps and plenty of water when you head out to explore.

 

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/upload/Cinder_Cones_SB_Bl_LowRes.pdf, http://www.nature.nps.gov/geology/usgsnps/mojave/cinder1.html, http://www.nature.nps.gov/nnl/site.cfm?Site=CICO-CA, http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2004/1007/volcanic.html

Kelso Dunes, Mojave National Preserve

Tatooine, er, Kelso Dunes, from the "trailhead"

I hate to make people jealous, but I have a confession: I’ve been to Tatooine. I’ll be even more honest – it wasn’t at Star Tours, and it wasn’t through any related Star Wars video games. And, as a further disclaimer, I’ll let you know that I haven’t gone completely around the bend yet, and it didn’t take place in a dream, or within the confines of my own head. Did you know that on Tatooine, the sand talks? In certain places, you can feel it saltating against your legs, and you can hear the whispering plink plink plinks as it bounces off your body. Even more interesting, when you’re out in the deep mountains of sand of its far reaches, you can hear the dunes peak to you with a deep bass timbre, in rumbling chords of booooom sssssssss boooom.

 Midway up the Kelso Dunes

But, before you call the men with the white coats, let me clarify where exactly on Tatooine I’ve been: I’ve been to the Kelso Dune portions of the planet only. What’s that you say? There’s no Kelso on Tatooine, and that the Kelso Dunes are on this planet? Fiiiiiiiiine, you got me. I am right about all of the above though – the sand in the Kelso Dunes talks; and if you’re there at the right time, it booms and sings – one of the few networks of sand dunes on the planet that does!

Directions: Head three light years past...alright, alright. If you’re in the Mojave National Preserve, you’re going to want to find Kelbaker Road, which will take you to the graded gravel turnoff. And, actually, if you’re outside the park you’ll want to take the Kelbaker Road exits from the I-15 or the I-40 as well. If you’re coming from the North, you’ll pass through Kelso before you get to the Dunes. Do note that there is no gas within the entirety of the Mojave National Preserve, so be sure to fill up prior to entering the park to explore.

View South from the Kelso Dunes - the distant line is the "trail" The Trail: Actually, there is no trail. Once you reach the parking area for the dunes, there is a pit toilet, some interpretive panels, and a short quarter mile segment heading due North into the dunes. From that point, it is every man, woman, and stormtrooper search party for themselves (and you thought I was done with the Star Wars references). It took me about an hour to reach the summit of what I perceived to be the highest dune from the parking lot.

While this may sound like an incredibly short distance; let me assure you that as you are headed uphill for almost the entirety of the hike/walk/desert trek/exploration, it is actually quite difficult and strenuous at times. Oh right, I forgot to mention why it is difficult: you are trekking uphill in sliding, slippery, shifting, foot sucking sand. Even if it is not hot when you are doing this, you will work up a sweat if you are headed to the top, I guarantee it. Should you not be headed to the top dune, you will also work up a sweat traveling around the dune field, as it is rigorous work at times. From the parking lot you can travel as short – or as long as you wish; however due note that dune travel can be disorienting, and should you head to a far far away dune, make sure you can orient yourself back.

 Dune sliding - tallyho!

Tips: If you’re going for photographs, I’d say the best times are either early in the day, when there are no footprints, or late in the day, when the light changes in the desert. My other tip is to get out there and enjoy the dunes. This is one of the few locations where off-roading is prohibited, so you can run, jump, slide, roll, and do just about anything down dune hills without the fear of being squashed by a vehicle. My suggestion: take a sled; old snowboard; lunch tray; inner tube; or anything that you can slide in; and head up part or all of the way up a dune and then slide down. And, if you don’t have a sliding object that you can use, head up, and slide down with just your feet causing as many savalanches of your own as you want.

Supplemental Tip: If you’re coming from the North, and you’re hungry, I recommend you stop in Kelso, where the National Park Service has renovated the old train station, and its diner, The Beanery. It’s a great spot to learn more about the park, and experience some of the history of the region. (http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/beanery.htm)

See you in the sand!

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/upload/MOJAmap1.pdf, http://geomaps.wr.usgs.gov/parks/mojave/kelso1.html, http://geomaps.wr.usgs.gov/parks/mojave/kelsosand.html, http://www.mydreamcametrue.com/dreamdesert.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelso_Dunes

Zzyzx, Mojave National Preserve

Soda Spring, Zzyzx

Zzyzx! It sounds like a species or planet from Douglas Adams’ Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. It also sounds like a dread sickness, “After Bart got the zzyzx, he only lived one minute!” Or, if you’re heading North on the I-15 to Las Vegas, and it’s late at night, the word and exit (the last exit before Baker) makes you think, “Zzyzx – man, I wish I was in Vegas so I could get zome zzzzzzzyzx of my own”(even though everyone knows that no one sleeps in Vegas!). Or, if you’re on your way back from Vegas, the word sounds like the best curse ever, because you’ve been stuck in 110 degree traffic for the last hour on the I-15 South, and you lost all of your money, and the girl/guy you were with. In this case, you’re probably thinking, “I got your ZZYZX right here you son of a sea monkey!!!”

Zzyzx, a real town, with real street names.However, if you’re a true desert wanderer, you’re not thinking any of these things. You’re thinking, “Hey, that’s a mighty strange term – I wonder what exactly is off Zzyzx???” And, since I am a true desert wanderer, let me tell you what’s off Zzyzx road (just in case you elect not to stop). To the North, there’s desert, and desert tortoises. To the South, there’s more desert – Mojave National Preserve desert, to be exact, and if you follow the road down, you’ll see a sign that says this “Zzyzx, 6 miles”. If you continue following the road, you’ll wind along some salt flat, and the road will go from paved to graded gravel, to paved again, and then to gravel, and then you’ll be in a parking lot outside of the town of Zzyzx.

 Empty swingsets in abandoned towns=creepy.

Astute observers and readers are now likely muttering at their screens, “What? You’re telling me there’s a town in the middle of the Mojave called Zzyzx? Yeah, right. I’d have heard of this before. Nice try!” To this, let me assure you that had you been alive in say, 1944, you would have definitely heard of Zzyzx – on a little box called the radio. Back then, it was developed by Curtis Howe Springer, who had his own radio show promoting the water (yes, there’s water – and lots of it there), selling the water, and promoting his own health spa and yes, radio evangelism. Prior to that, it was called Soda Springs, and inhabited thousands of years ago by prehistoric man. Today, what remains is pretty much all of the town built by Springer, which is now the California State University Desert Studies center. While classes are held there regularly, every time I’ve been there, the place has been empty and deserted. This brings me to my last point about Zzyzx – it’s eerie. When its high noon, and you’re standing by the abandoned swing set on the Boulevard of Dreams (actual street name), you start to wonder where the inhabitants are, and what happened to them. Then you start to wonder, “Are they coming to get me? Is this a horror movie? Is what got them going to get me??” Or maybe that’s just me. Horror movie qualities aside, the town has a cute art deco feel and interesting street names, so if you’ve been stuck in traffic, or want to see a part of America that’s disappeared, check it out – Zzyzx.

Zzyzx - I wouldn't recommend you drink that untreated water! Directions: See above, but first exit after Baker, or first exist before Baker. Zzyzx exit, of course.

Tips: What, you need more? I mean, really, I think this whole post is a giant tip. How many of you knew there was a town out in the Mojave also called Zzyzx? I thought not. Ok, ok. I say, wait for a starry night, and drive out to the town while listening to a little Blue Moon by ol’ blue eyes himself, Frank Sinatra to get a feel for how Zzyzx was in its heyday. That, and don’t drink the water out there: Springer may have sold it, but was ultimately busted for being the “King of Quacks”! (There’s also a good recording of Springer at the Kelso NPS Museum, should you wish to listen to his radio claims).

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/zzyzx.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zzyzx,_California, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curtis_Howe_Springer, http://www.weirdus.com/states/california/fabled_people_and_places/zzyyxxzz/index.php

The Mojave Desert Tortoise Application and CA Desert Application

It used to be that you'd head out to the wilderness with nothing but a map, compass, and dagnabit, a film camera on your back, along with other things that comprised your ten essentials. That was then - and this is now. Today, most of us carry a smartphone, which, among other things, can be your camera, GPS unit, map repository, and many other things. I'm an avid iPhone user, and I definitely am always looking for new applications to go along with my existing group of battery draining applications.

Since I've been talking about the desert for the last couple weeks, it seemed like a good idea to review two of my new favorite desert related applications.

Watch for Tortoise!The first is the Mojave Desert Tortoise App, and it can be found here: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mojave-desert-tortoise/id400806083?mt=8 . This is a great little app that has a quick quiz about the Mojave Desert Tortoise and its lifestyle, as well as handy facts, should you be lucky enough to see one, and even more importantly, should you be lucky enough to see one, a way to take a picture and upload it to researchers seeking to better understand and protect the tortoise - so, like the sign says - "Watch for Desert Tortoise"(!). (As a hint, now would not be a good time to use this app, as the Tortoises are hibernating).

Second, and equally as helpful is the California Desert Application, which can be found here: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ca-desert/id431028825?mt=8. This is a great little app with an intereactive map of desert areas, an interactive interface regarding different activities that are available in these areas, and a section for recent news and events going on in those areas.

Also, the best news about these apps is that they are both free, so should you have an iPhone, and plan to be out exploring in the local Southern Californian Deserts, be sure to check them out!

See you on the Interwebs!

Ring Loop Trail, Mojave National Preserve

The infamous "Rings Climb" - dun dun dunnnnn

Every National Park has its own signature “must-do” hike. In Yosemite, it’s the Mist Trail and Half Dome. In Zion National Park, it’s Angels Landing. And, in the Mojave National Preserve, the signature hike is probably the Rings Climb/Ring Loop Trail. I say “probably” because I have to admit that I’m a big fan of hiking around the Kelso Dunes when I’m in the Preserve; and in my mind, it’s a tough call deciding between the two. However, in terms of pure hiking, I’m going to have to stick with my initial call: the Rings Climb/Ring Loop Trail is the signature hike of the Preserve.

Directions: The Rings Loop Trail leaves from one of two locations located at the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center parking lot. There is a trail entrance located at the East side of the parking lot, near the entrance, and another trailhead located at the picnic area at the North end of the Visitor Center lot. I’d personally recommend that you start your hike at the East trailhead in the Visitor Center parking lot. The trail is well marked from this point, and you have a clear, flat first quarter mile before you arrive at a grouping of boulders with petroglyphs on them. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/9/hole-in-the-wall-petroglyphs.html ). It is precisely for this reason that I recommend leaving from this trailhead rather than the other, as you are more likely to spot the petroglyphs than if you are approaching from the opposite direction. (However, if you’re particularly observant, and looking for them, I am sure that you will find them no matter which direction you travel).

Mid-Banshee CanyonAfter the petroglyphs, the trail continues for another half mile (.5) on mostly flat terrain, winding slightly to the North. At three quarters (.75) of a mile total distance, you will get great views of the opening to Banshee Canyon. From this angle, it looks like a fanciful castle with windows, turrets, and other openings. The trail then heads slightly uphill into Banshee Canyon, leaving you in the middle of the phantasmagorical rock formations that Hole-in-the-Wall is named for. These rock formations are the byproducts of an ancient volcanic eruption, which scorched the surrounding desert millions of years ago. Today, the various holes, openings, and other formations look like anything you can imagine.

Once you’ve taken an appropriate amount of time to admire the geologic features, you’re likely going to want to find your way out of Banshee Canyon (named for the howling sound the canyon makes in high winds, naturally). To the South is a slight slot that ends in a straight vertical wall with carved/worn hand and footholds. While this is an exit, it’s meant for climbers, and not the average NPS visitor. (I checked it out, and found it to be a good workout!). To the North, the NPS trail heads up another slot, until you reach the signature point – the rings.

 First set of "rings"

The rings are simply that – metal rings that NPS has installed into the rock walls of the canyon. They are divided into two separate sections. The first section is steep, but at this point, the rings are placed to give a person more of an assist hiking, rather than being needed to actually ascend this portion of the trail. However, the second section of rings heads up a short rock wall, and are needed to actually climb up a section before hiking out.

Now, here’s where discerning readers will ask the thousand dollar question: Just how tough/dangerous is the ring area? Should I attempt it? First, let me give you the NPS answer (as I am former NPS employee): everyone should do what they feel comfortable with; and not try anything outside their comfort/skill level that will leave them in danger. Second, let me give you the LA answer: most people can do this. Yes, a fall from the first section would cause bruising or a broken bone at worst, while a fall from the second section could definitely result in something worse. Having said that, I’ve been on the cables at Half Dome, and the route on Angels Landing, both of which are NPS approved trails, and these Rings are easy compared to those risks. Things to note: the canyon through the ring section is somewhat narrow, so if you are a bit larger, you may feel that it is a tight fit. (I note that I am not a big person, nor small, but average sized, and I found it a bit tight in a spot or two). Also, if you are concerned about people passing up and or down, this is probably not the spot for you, especially if you’re a little claustrophobic.

 Second set of "rings"

Having said all of those important but serious things, I will also note that the rings are fun. I saw older people climbing them (70+) and junior mountaineers climbing and descending them with ease. And that is why I would call this hike a must-do and the signature hike of the Preserve – it’s fun, there’s great scenery, and you get to adventure up and down the canyons a little bit. From the rings, it’s probably a tenth of a mile (.10) to the trailhead by the picnic area, and a great overlook of the Hole-in-the-Wall formations. The loop is a mile in length total, so this hike is accessible at any time for just about anyone.

Tips: Did I mention there’s petroglyphs? (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/9/hole-in-the-wall-petroglyphs.html) I think I did. Other than that, I’d recommend heading out at night (with proper lighting, of course) to view Banshee Canyon for a unique view of the formations under the moonlight.

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/-hiking.htm, http://www.birdandhike.com/Hike/MOJA/Rings_Trail/_Rings_Trail.htm, http://www.hikespeak.com/trails/hole-in-the-wall-rings-trail-in-mojave-national-preserve/, http://articles.latimes.com/2012/jan/08/travel/la-tr-mojave-20120108

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main Boulder

If I said to you, "Riddle me this, Bat-boy, which is the third largest national park/preserve in the lower forty eight states?", you'd probably pause for a minute, and respond with, "Yellowstone", "Yosemite", "Grand Canyon", or maybe if you were feeling erudite, "Big Bend". But you'd be wrong: the answer is the Mojave National Preserve. (http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/index.htm). In this respect, Mojave National Preserve ("MNP") is probably the stealthist park in the National Park Service network, which is quite a feat considering how large it is! While I can't say exactly why this is - perhaps it's because it loses visitors to its more popular siblings, Joshua Tree and Death Valley, to its South and North, respectively; or perhaps its because it's in a remote area (halfway between Las Vegas and halfway between Los Angeles); what I can say for sure is that it's full of interesting items and adventures. 

For example: the Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs. These petroglyphs are located within a quarter of a mile (.25) from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center on the Ring Loop Trail, and yet, are relatively unknown, undiscovered, and even on a weekend, berefit of visitors. These petroglyphs are roughly ten to twelve thousand years old from what I've been told, and from what I saw, are in good condition, considering they are on some exposed boulders, and have likely been visited by thousands of people. 

Directions: Take the Ring Loop Trail from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center. Follow the trail South/Southeast for a quarter of a mile (.25). Before the trail turns West, there will be a grouping of boulders. The petroglyphs are on the main face of a larger boulder, but smaller groupings appear on other boulders in the cluster.

Tips: The petroglyphs are faint in places, and if you are booking along, and not paying attention to your desert surroundings, you will pass them easily. Take your time, and scan the exposed rock faces as you pass by. In addition, should you want a good 360 degree view of the surrounding hole in the wall region, the hill above the boulders can be scrambled up easily for a great view! It's also worth noting that the interpretive rangers at Hole-in-the-Wall are conducting programs about the petroglyphs once a week, at this point, occurring on Saturdays (check with the Visitor Center should you visit to ensure that this is still the correct day when you visit). And, as it is the desert, do take plenty of water, and be respectful of the ancient art that exists on these rocks.

 Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main BoulderHole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

Hole-in-the-Wall PetroglyphsMore Information:http://www.summitpost.org/petroglyph-rock/356484/c-356444, http://www.summitpost.org/petroglyphs-near-hole-in-the-wall/175899, http://www.nationalparksblog.com/petroglyphs-hole-in-the-wall-mojave-national-preserve/, http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/-hiking.htm