Angel's Landing, Zion National Park

View of Angel's Landing from the trailhead

As I’ve mentioned before, every National Park has its own signature hike or moment. For Yosemite, it’s the Mist Trail (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html); for Death Valley, it’s Golden Canyon (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/3/6/golden-canyon-to-red-cathedral-death-valley-national-park.html); for Mojave National Preserve, it’s the Ring Loop Trail (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/10/ring-loop-trail-mojave-national-preserve.html); for the Grand Canyon, it’s the South Kaibab or Bright Angel Trails (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2007/6/15/bright-angel-trailsouth-kaibab-trails-grand-canyon-national.html?SSScrollPosition=0); and for Zion National Park, the signature hike is Angel’s Landing. If that didn’t get your attention, this will: in my opinion, Angel’s Landing is not just a signature hike just for Zion, but a signature hike for all of Utah; and is definitely one of the top hikes in the United States.

First mile of West Rim Trail to Refrigerator Canyon

Now, having placed my reputation again on the line regarding this hike, let me give you the disclaimers! First, like any signature or “must-do” hike, Angel’s Landing is not a hike where you will find absolute solitude: there is a 95% chance that there will be other people on the trail with you. Does that mean you shouldn’t hike Angel’s Landing? Of course not! And, if you time it right, and there aren’t other people on the trail with you, you can feel very lucky.

Second, and most importantly, unlike Golden Canyon, the Rings Trail, or the Mist Trail, Angel’s Landing is not a hike for beginners. Nor is it a hike for anyone with a fear of heights. The reason it is not hike for these classes of people is simple: the final stretch to the summit is up a very, very steep section of trail with long drop-offs on either side. While the National Park Service has installed cables that are secured to the rock face of the mountain, there is limited space to stand, and due to the popular nature of the hike, it is likely that people will be ascending next to you, or attempting to descend down the same route you are attempting to ascend. It is one of the worst places for a panic attack, which is why I caution any prospective hiker from attempting this trail should they have a fear of heights, or limited to no experience in ascending or descending steep mountain terrain. It is a great hike, and it is safe, so if you are looking for a challenging trek and great views, this is the hike for you.

Refrigerator Canyon

Directions: Zion Canyon is only accessible by foot, bike, or the National Park Service bus service that runs the length of the canyon. Unless you are looking for a real challenge, I suggest that you take the NPS bus to the Grotto bus stop. From the bus stop, the trailhead for Angel’s Landing, the West Rim Trail, is located across the road. The trail first crosses over the Virgin River, providing you with a great view of the peak. From that point, the trail heads up a series of meandering switchbacks toward Refrigerator Canyon. This first mile of trail is paved, and provides great views of the Virgin River, Zion Canyon, and from the turn into Refrigerator Canyon, great views of the trail itself. While this first mile of trail is steep in places, it also serves as an area where many of your fellow hikers will decide how far they are traveling. This section of trail is somewhat exposed to the sun, and on a hot summer’s day, many hikers will get tired and turn back either before or at the beginning of Refrigerator Canyon.

 Base of Walter's Wiggles

After the first mile, you will enter Refrigerator Canyon. Why is this section of the hike called Refrigerator Canyon? High, sloping red rock walls shade the canyon continually, leaving the ambient temperature five to twenty degrees cooler than being in the direct sun. I personally love this portion of the hike, and always take time to listen to the rustling leaves of the trees present, or the babbling seasonal runoff that is present in early spring. Continue to follow the trail through the canyon to its second most infamous section, Walter’s Wiggles. It’s a testament to the extreme drop-offs present at the cables that this feat of trail engineering is the second most infamous section. The twenty-one switchbacks of the Wiggles provide great views of Refrigerator Canyon below, and great views of the surrounding red rock walls. Once you reach the top of the Wiggles, you will be at Scout’s Lookout, which has two things: bathrooms (but no water), and a fantastic view of the direct final climb up to Angel’s Landing. At this point, you will have ascended two (2) miles, and will have only a half mile (.5) left to reach the summit. However, as you will see from Scout’s Lookout, this half mile is almost straight up over a section of exposed rock on the spine of the mountain. I personally like to call Scout’s Lookout, “Should-I-Stay-or-Should-I-go” point, because it is precisely at this point a majority of hikers are deciding exactly that question.

 View of the spine of Angel's Landing from Scout's Lookout

The last section of trail heading up to the summit is very, very, very, very steep. I am not trying to scare any potential hikers/climbers, but it is worth noting that people have indeed fallen to their death from this point. Only you and you alone can judge whether you have the physical – and mental fortitude to proceed up the trail from Scout’s Lookout; but should you elect to proceed, you will be rewarded with a feeling of accomplishment and a great view. As noted above, NPS has made this section as safe as they can with cables affixed to the mountain, but there are steep drop-offs on either side of the spine for this section of trail. Watch your footing; watch where you are placing your weight; hands; and watch your balance. Once you have traversed the cables, you will find yourself a short walk from the summit, where you can admire the view of Zion Canyon and the Virgin River before traversing the cables back down to the trail and to the Grotto bus stop. The total distance of this hike is 5.4 miles roundtrip, and you will gain 1,488 feet in elevation.

 View from the summit of Angel's Landing

Tips: Did I mention this trail is steep and not for the faint hearted? It is. In the summer, Zion can become very hot, so be sure to take plenty of water for the ascent, as a majority of it is quite exposed. As noted above, take proper precautions when traversing the cables; the area can become quite congested with ascending and descending hikers. Also, be sure to allot enough time on the summit blocks to relax, enjoy the view, and eat lunch, dinner, breakfast, or whatever snack you have brought with you. Do also note that the summit is home to numerous chipmunks and ground squirrels that would love nothing more than to share your food with you and are quite friendly. Do not be overly startled by their inquisitive presence, especially near the edges of the summit!

More Information:http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/loader.cfm?csModule=security/getfile&PageID=533013, http://www.nps.gov/featurecontent/zion/eHike.htm, http://www.citrusmilo.com/zionguide/angelslanding.cfm, http://www.naturalbornhikers.com/AngelsLanding/angelslanding.htm, http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5538034

Ring Loop Trail, Mojave National Preserve

The infamous "Rings Climb" - dun dun dunnnnn

Every National Park has its own signature “must-do” hike. In Yosemite, it’s the Mist Trail and Half Dome. In Zion National Park, it’s Angels Landing. And, in the Mojave National Preserve, the signature hike is probably the Rings Climb/Ring Loop Trail. I say “probably” because I have to admit that I’m a big fan of hiking around the Kelso Dunes when I’m in the Preserve; and in my mind, it’s a tough call deciding between the two. However, in terms of pure hiking, I’m going to have to stick with my initial call: the Rings Climb/Ring Loop Trail is the signature hike of the Preserve.

Directions: The Rings Loop Trail leaves from one of two locations located at the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center parking lot. There is a trail entrance located at the East side of the parking lot, near the entrance, and another trailhead located at the picnic area at the North end of the Visitor Center lot. I’d personally recommend that you start your hike at the East trailhead in the Visitor Center parking lot. The trail is well marked from this point, and you have a clear, flat first quarter mile before you arrive at a grouping of boulders with petroglyphs on them. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/9/hole-in-the-wall-petroglyphs.html ). It is precisely for this reason that I recommend leaving from this trailhead rather than the other, as you are more likely to spot the petroglyphs than if you are approaching from the opposite direction. (However, if you’re particularly observant, and looking for them, I am sure that you will find them no matter which direction you travel).

Mid-Banshee CanyonAfter the petroglyphs, the trail continues for another half mile (.5) on mostly flat terrain, winding slightly to the North. At three quarters (.75) of a mile total distance, you will get great views of the opening to Banshee Canyon. From this angle, it looks like a fanciful castle with windows, turrets, and other openings. The trail then heads slightly uphill into Banshee Canyon, leaving you in the middle of the phantasmagorical rock formations that Hole-in-the-Wall is named for. These rock formations are the byproducts of an ancient volcanic eruption, which scorched the surrounding desert millions of years ago. Today, the various holes, openings, and other formations look like anything you can imagine.

Once you’ve taken an appropriate amount of time to admire the geologic features, you’re likely going to want to find your way out of Banshee Canyon (named for the howling sound the canyon makes in high winds, naturally). To the South is a slight slot that ends in a straight vertical wall with carved/worn hand and footholds. While this is an exit, it’s meant for climbers, and not the average NPS visitor. (I checked it out, and found it to be a good workout!). To the North, the NPS trail heads up another slot, until you reach the signature point – the rings.

 First set of "rings"

The rings are simply that – metal rings that NPS has installed into the rock walls of the canyon. They are divided into two separate sections. The first section is steep, but at this point, the rings are placed to give a person more of an assist hiking, rather than being needed to actually ascend this portion of the trail. However, the second section of rings heads up a short rock wall, and are needed to actually climb up a section before hiking out.

Now, here’s where discerning readers will ask the thousand dollar question: Just how tough/dangerous is the ring area? Should I attempt it? First, let me give you the NPS answer (as I am former NPS employee): everyone should do what they feel comfortable with; and not try anything outside their comfort/skill level that will leave them in danger. Second, let me give you the LA answer: most people can do this. Yes, a fall from the first section would cause bruising or a broken bone at worst, while a fall from the second section could definitely result in something worse. Having said that, I’ve been on the cables at Half Dome, and the route on Angels Landing, both of which are NPS approved trails, and these Rings are easy compared to those risks. Things to note: the canyon through the ring section is somewhat narrow, so if you are a bit larger, you may feel that it is a tight fit. (I note that I am not a big person, nor small, but average sized, and I found it a bit tight in a spot or two). Also, if you are concerned about people passing up and or down, this is probably not the spot for you, especially if you’re a little claustrophobic.

 Second set of "rings"

Having said all of those important but serious things, I will also note that the rings are fun. I saw older people climbing them (70+) and junior mountaineers climbing and descending them with ease. And that is why I would call this hike a must-do and the signature hike of the Preserve – it’s fun, there’s great scenery, and you get to adventure up and down the canyons a little bit. From the rings, it’s probably a tenth of a mile (.10) to the trailhead by the picnic area, and a great overlook of the Hole-in-the-Wall formations. The loop is a mile in length total, so this hike is accessible at any time for just about anyone.

Tips: Did I mention there’s petroglyphs? (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/9/hole-in-the-wall-petroglyphs.html) I think I did. Other than that, I’d recommend heading out at night (with proper lighting, of course) to view Banshee Canyon for a unique view of the formations under the moonlight.

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/-hiking.htm, http://www.birdandhike.com/Hike/MOJA/Rings_Trail/_Rings_Trail.htm, http://www.hikespeak.com/trails/hole-in-the-wall-rings-trail-in-mojave-national-preserve/, http://articles.latimes.com/2012/jan/08/travel/la-tr-mojave-20120108

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main Boulder

If I said to you, "Riddle me this, Bat-boy, which is the third largest national park/preserve in the lower forty eight states?", you'd probably pause for a minute, and respond with, "Yellowstone", "Yosemite", "Grand Canyon", or maybe if you were feeling erudite, "Big Bend". But you'd be wrong: the answer is the Mojave National Preserve. (http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/index.htm). In this respect, Mojave National Preserve ("MNP") is probably the stealthist park in the National Park Service network, which is quite a feat considering how large it is! While I can't say exactly why this is - perhaps it's because it loses visitors to its more popular siblings, Joshua Tree and Death Valley, to its South and North, respectively; or perhaps its because it's in a remote area (halfway between Las Vegas and halfway between Los Angeles); what I can say for sure is that it's full of interesting items and adventures. 

For example: the Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs. These petroglyphs are located within a quarter of a mile (.25) from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center on the Ring Loop Trail, and yet, are relatively unknown, undiscovered, and even on a weekend, berefit of visitors. These petroglyphs are roughly ten to twelve thousand years old from what I've been told, and from what I saw, are in good condition, considering they are on some exposed boulders, and have likely been visited by thousands of people. 

Directions: Take the Ring Loop Trail from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center. Follow the trail South/Southeast for a quarter of a mile (.25). Before the trail turns West, there will be a grouping of boulders. The petroglyphs are on the main face of a larger boulder, but smaller groupings appear on other boulders in the cluster.

Tips: The petroglyphs are faint in places, and if you are booking along, and not paying attention to your desert surroundings, you will pass them easily. Take your time, and scan the exposed rock faces as you pass by. In addition, should you want a good 360 degree view of the surrounding hole in the wall region, the hill above the boulders can be scrambled up easily for a great view! It's also worth noting that the interpretive rangers at Hole-in-the-Wall are conducting programs about the petroglyphs once a week, at this point, occurring on Saturdays (check with the Visitor Center should you visit to ensure that this is still the correct day when you visit). And, as it is the desert, do take plenty of water, and be respectful of the ancient art that exists on these rocks.

 Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main BoulderHole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

Hole-in-the-Wall PetroglyphsMore Information:http://www.summitpost.org/petroglyph-rock/356484/c-356444, http://www.summitpost.org/petroglyphs-near-hole-in-the-wall/175899, http://www.nationalparksblog.com/petroglyphs-hole-in-the-wall-mojave-national-preserve/, http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/-hiking.htm