East Side Trail to Harper's Creek, Cuyamaca Rancho State Park

Beginning of East Side Trail past Sweetwater Bridge parking area

One of my favorite hikes in San Diego is the in-and-out hike in Cuyamaca Rancho State Park of the East Side Trail to Harper’s Creek. However, I must caution you: how much you enjoy this hike will likely depend on when you go. If you head out too early in the season, as I found one year with my hiking group, you’ll be slogging through muddy meadows under slate covered skies and pelting snow. If you head out too late in the season, as I found out another year, you’ll be trekking through dry vegetation to nothing but baked rocks that do not have the slightest hint of water. You may be wondering, “When is the best time to go?”; and I would say anytime in the late winter to early spring is the best time to go, because the seasonal flow of Harper’s Creek will not have dried up yet; and hopefully, you will get to see some seasonal wildflowers.

Directions: If you are coming from the South, take the I-8 to Highway 79 into Cuyamaca Rancho State Park. At mile 4.9 along Highway 79, you will pass over the Sweetwater River Bridge, and there will be a large dirt parking lot on the immediate right-hand side of the road. If you are coming from the North, take Highway 79 to the Sweetwater River Bridge, where you will again see a large dirt parking lot on the South side of the road (your left). The East Side Trail leaves directly from the parking lot. The trail starts out passing through a grove of oaks before traversing directly along the East Side of Green Valley. The trail is by and large, very flat, so it is a great hike for beginners, or anyone looking to stretch their legs.

Looking North into Green Valley from the East Side Trail

As you pass through Green Valley, the Sweetwater River will be directly to your left (West), and at a mile and a half (1.5 miles), you will pass the buildings of Camp Cuyamaca and the Cuyamaca Rancho Park Headquarters (again on your left/to the West). Should you wish to cut out this initial 1.5 miles of distance, you can also start the hike from the Park Headquarters parking lot, but in my opinion, it is more scenic to start the hike from the Sweetwater River bridge lot. It is also important to note that should you start the hike from the Sweetwater River bridge lot, there will be two trail intersections to the North prior to passing Camp Cuyamaca; one of which that leads up to join the Harvey Moore Trail; and the other that leads up to Dyar Spring. Unless you are planning on making your hike longer, you will not want to head up these trails, and you will want to remain on the East Side Trail.

Spring Wildflowers, Harper's Creek Once you pass Camp Cuyamaca, follow the East Side Trail for another mile and one quarter (1.25) until you reach Harper’s Creek. You will know you are at Harper’s Creek, irrespective of season when you reach a large grove of oak trees. If you are doing this hike during my above suggested period (February-June), there will be a stream crossing at this point in time. How big is the crossing? Well, that’s a question that’s dependent on: a) how much rain/snow the area has received during the year; and b) what time of year you’ve gone. I’ve seen the crossing range from: a) non-existent (dry season/dry year to b) several feet wide and several feet deep. Currently, in 2012, we’re experiencing a somewhat dry year, so the crossing is not that deep or wide, but this could change if we were to get a fair amount of rain or snow (although this is looking more and more unlikely by the day).

 Seasonal waterfalls, Harper's Creek

Once you cross Harper’s Creek, it is a short walk up to a series of pools and waterfalls. Do note that this area is made by possible by seasonal rainfall/snowmelt, so if you do attempt this hike in the dead heat of August, do not be surprised to find the area bereft of any water whatsoever! If it is springtime, you will see a number of blooms (as pictured), and a number of small waterfalls (also pictured). Once you are done relaxing by this tranquil seasonal oasis, follow the East Side Trail back the way you came. Roundtrip, this hike will run you 5.5 miles on all flat terrain. This is a great morning hike year round; however, the hike is even more enjoyable during the spring months, as you get to see plenty of fresh growth.

 Tips: Take a lunch and relax by the waterfalls in the canyon; or, if you are feeling daring, take a swimsuit and wade into the pools for a quick dip!

More Information: http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=667

Corte Madera Mountain

Granite Boulders on the way to the Corte Madera Summit

Did you know that it is a known fact that the mountains talk? To be clear, I’m not just discussing the Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau, Robert Frost, or John Muir type of mountain talking in which the plants, rocks, trees, and other natural features speak to man. What I’m talking about is actual talking, man-to-man, mano-a-mano talking. What I’m talking about is the summit register (or log). In many cases in the United States, and around the World, if the mountain is big enough or popular enough, it will likely have a summit register or log. These logs come in a variety of shapes and sizes to withstand the elements – some are in battered plastic containers under rocks; some are in old ammunition containers; some have their own boxes; and some are something else altogether. What they have in common is that they are a living history of the past, containing the voices of past mountaineers and hikers and their experiences on the mountain. Some logs, like the Mt. Whitney log, get changed often; and some like the log atop Corte Madera, go back a couple of years.

 Summit Log, Corte Madera Mountain

Corte Madera is a granite mountain in the Eastern portion of San Diego; and at 4,657 feet, it has a great view of the surrounding countryside. This is one of my favorite hikes in San Diego County because it’s not well traveled, and because it passes through a number of beautiful areas on the way to the summit. And, as I discovered the last time I climbed it, its register is a good look back to the past, as it contains notes from the last several years.

Directions: This hike is on the far reaches of San Diego County; and in order to get to it, you will have to drive a bit. You will take the I-8 to Buckman Springs Road; once you exit, you will head three (3) miles South to Corral Canyon Road. At Corral Canyon Road, turn West and follow the road for five miles (do note that the road is mostly paved; but passable by non-four wheel drive vehicles in most cases). Once you reach a hairpin turn on the road, you should park. Chances are that there will be a car or two in the area. Once you have parked, cross the road and head up the trail behind the metal locked gate (this part of the trail is known as the Kernan Road).

This first part of the trail passes under some beautiful black oaks for roughly half a mile, and if it is winter or springtime, you will notice seasonal water flowing under the trees. After this half-mile stretch, bear left onto the Espinosa Trail, which again, if it is the right season, will be next to some seasonal streams. Follow this trail for another mile, and you will be atop a small hill and at the intersection of Los Pinos Road. Turn right (South-Southwest), and follow the well graded fire access road for roughly .4 miles up a series of switchbacks to another saddle near Peak 4588.

Looking back to the parking area/trail from the Corte Madera Summit

Through this portion of trail, you will pass a number of Yuccas, as well as manzanita and other Southern California chaparral. From this point, you will follow the trail down a section of trail past some loose granite before heading out on a mostly flat final stretch toward the summit. Near the summit, there are a number of “false” trails that cut off to other areas; the best way to navigate to the actual summit is to bear due West and head toward a grouping of granite boulders, and not into well-grown manzanita plants! Once you are on the summit, you will have great views of the surrounding county; but do be careful of the near three hundred (300) foot drop off from the summit. From the summit, you’ll have a good view of the route you traversed up; and when you are ready, you will return the same trail that you hiked up on. Round-trip, this hike will run you six and a half miles (6.5) in total distance, and is a solid moderate hike.

 Summit Blocks, Corte Madera Mountain

Tips:  This is a great area to see wildflowers when they are in season; and on a clear day, you can see a lot of interesting features from the summit blocks. As well, Corte Madera is known as “the Half-Dome of San Diego” to some people due to the fact that it is an exfoliating block of granite. Last, as noted above, watch for “false” trails when approaching the summit, as it is easy to become lost.

See you on the trail!

More Information:  http://www.100peaks.com/2011/01/09/corte-madera-mountain-and-los-pinos-mountain-peaks-51-and-52-the-half-dome-of-san-diego/, http://www.sandiegoreader.com/news/2005/nov/17/climb-top-corte-madera-mountain-and-survey-world-o/

Cowles Mountain

Summit, Cowles Mountain

Right behind the second most popular hike in San Diego, Iron Mountain, is the first most popular (cue drum roll) Cowles Mountain. If you even have a remote interest in hiking, or the outdoors, or are even somewhat athletic in that you move around because you are alive, or even if you’re the undead of some sort, chances are that you’ve heard about Cowles Mountain. Like Iron Mountain, Cowles Mountain is a popular hike. In fact, saying that it’s popular is like saying that the Interstate 5 through Los Angeles during rush hour is congested. It’s a classic understatement. As Cowles Mountain is located very close to the core of San Diego, there are people on this trail at all hours. I have been on this trail at all hours of the day and night, and frankly, as I said about Iron Mountain, I defy you to find a time when people are not on the trail.

But here’s the thing about Cowles Mountain. I’m not sure it’s really a mountain. Yes, I know that technically, at 1,591 feet above sea level, it qualifies as a “mountain”, and yes, I know that it is one of the “larger” peaks in the city proper, but to me, it just feels like a hill. My mind quails to count Cowles as a mountain, when it seems like a hill compared to some of the bigger peaks in the surrounding region within an hour or two hour drive. To me, it seems a little bit like that movie – The Englishman Who Went Up a Hill But Came Down a Mountain (yes, I know – obscure movie reference of the month, if not year), and in this sense, Cowles Mountain is San Diego’s “mountain”, so it’s best for me not to claim that it’s not or that it’s mountain-ness should be diminished. I also willingly concede that if you’re working yourself into shape, or are young, old, or have some other reason, it may seem like Mt. Everest to you, in which case, it is worthy of the name; but to me, it seems like Cowles Hill – but then, who cares what I think, because I don’t get to name things whatsoever.

Directions: The best way, and the most popular way to head up Cowles Mountain is the Western approach, which starts from the Mission Trails Regional Park parking lot at the intersection of Golfcrest and Navajo. (http://www.mtrp.org/directions.asp?idno=2) Do note that as this is a very popular hike, the lot may be full, at which point, you may have to park on the street; but do not worry, there is ample street parking. From the parking lot, the trailhead is clearly marked, and is conveniently located next to a bathroom. The trail immediately starts heading uphill, as it has nine hundred and thirty-three (933) feet of elevation gain. The majority of the trail is switchbacks heading toward the summit, and in my opinion, given the amount of traffic that the trail gets, the trail is well maintained. After one and one half miles (1.5), you will find yourself at the summit, with a great 360 degree view of the city of San Diego. At this point, you can continue along the Eastern side of the mountain further into Mission Trails park proper; or like most people, turn around and head back down for an easy, roundtrip hike of three (3) miles.

 Winter Solstice, Cowles Mountain Summit, 2011

I rate this as an easy hike despite the elevation gain based on two factors: 1) the amount and variety of people hiking the mountain, from young to old; and 2) the fact that people regularly run the mountain on a daily basis; sometimes with weights. However, difficulty is subjective, and if you are new to hiking, you may find it steep; if that is the case, this is a great introductory hike, and a great introduction to hiking in San Diego because of the view and the comraderie you will experience on the trail.

Tips: If you’re running the trail, like I do at times, be prepared to come to a screeching halt or stop on numerous occasions, as the trail does get congested, and there are blind corners. Be considerate, watch your speed, and don’t run over people. Additionally, every December Mission Trails Regional Park Guides lead a great hike for the winter solstice, which is a fun experience for all ages, provided you can get up early enough to hike the mountain! (http://www.mtrp.org/events.asp?actiontype=showdate&the_date=12/21/2011) And, as with any hike, do be sure to take water.

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.mtrp.org/pop_map_details.asp?area_idno=0&habitat_idno=0&trail_idno=3, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cowles_Mountain, http://www.100peaks.com/2009/09/01/cowles-mountain-peak-7/, http://www.yelp.com/biz/cowles-mountain-san-diego

Iron Mountain

Just your friendly greeting sign at the trailhead.

The third confession that I have for my readers this week is not a confession, it’s a fact. Fact: Iron Mountain is the second most popular hike within the confines of San Diego County. The only thing that makes Iron Mountain the second most popular hike within the county is that at six miles roundtrip, it is a big longer than the first most popular hike within the county, Cowles Mountain. If you are looking for solitude on your hike, do not hike Iron Mountain. Well, ok, I shouldn’t say that. If you hike Iron Mountain in the middle of the night or on a rare rainy, cold day in San Diego, you might be alone on the trail. You might. Even under those conditions, I’d still assume that you’d run into at least one person. Iron Mountain is the second largest peak in the city of San Diego proper at 2,696 feet; and it is in the portion of the county with a number of hiking trails, such as the Goodan Ranch-Sycamore Canyon Preserve, and Woodson Mountain. Unlike Woodson, I’d recommend Iron Mountain as a hike, as it’s a great hike or jog; and when you get to the summit, you will have great unobstructed views of the surrounding area; however, do bear in mind that if you are indeed seeking solitude, this is not the hike for you.

 Looking up toward the summit of Iron Mountain

Directions:  The parking lot for Iron Mountain is located almost exactly at the junction of CA-67 and Poway Road. By almost exactly, I mean that the lot is located a smidgen South of the junction, but for all intents and purposes, it is at that spot. If you are at that T-intersection facing East, you will be able to see it, and the horde of people around it. A quick note about the lot: back in the day, one had to risk life and limb crossing the CA-67 as there was no “official” parking; but occasionally, the lot does fill up on warm weekends. If this is the case, there is parking across the road, or on the side of the road; but do take care crossing the CA-67.

The hike is a fairly simple out-and-back route; from the lot, one heads out under a tree-lined canopy, and then across a stretch of meadow for the only flat terrain of the hike.

At approximately three quarters of a mile, the trail curves down slightly, before heading up into the first sections of switchbacks. At this point, you will start to gain some elevation before ending up at a T-junction. At this point, if you are heading for the peak, you will want to turn right (South) on the well-signed and marked trail. From this point, the trail winds around the backside of the mountain, giving you good views of Eastern San Diego County, before a series of switchbacks provide you with most of the elevation gain, and leave you on the summit. From the summit, you will have a great three-hundred and sixty degree of the county, and on a very clear day, you can indeed see the ocean. Once you are done on the summit, follow the trail back to the parking lot. I would rate this as an excellent moderate hike, one that will challenge a beginner hiker, and one that will keep an experienced hiker at least interested. Plus, there’s a good view at the summit.

 

A Word About Distance: As this is the second most popular hike in San Diego county, one would think that the distance on the hike would be cut and dry. Well, one would be wrong. I’ve hiked Iron Mountain more times than I can count, and I find the mileage to always be consistently from 5.6 to 5.8 miles roundtrip. Yet, as noted above, there’s a sign at the beginning of the trail stating that it is 3.5 miles to the summit; and if you look at the links below, you will find a variety of mileages from 4.8 to 6.63 miles roundtrip. Based on my experience, I’m going to stand by my mileage totals, which were originally based out of Jerry Schad’s Afoot and Afield, and confirmed by my GPS. If anyone is overly concerned about the mileage issue, they can write me, and either agree, or tell me that I’m an idiot. I suspect the different mileages are from people adding or subtracting portions to the hike, but that’s just my suspicion.

Tips: If you are doing this hike in summertime, or a warm fall day in the fall, do bring plenty of water. Most of the hike is exposed, and it does get quite hot  - into the 90’s or higher during those times. As you will be heading uphill for a fair portion of the hike and exerting yourself, the risk of dehydration at those times is high. Bringing water is a good idea in general, however! Also, there’s a telescope and mailbox at the summit which are things that are not usually seen atop mountains. My last tip is something I discussed months ago: there’s plenty of great scenery around, especially at the Goodan Ranch-Sycamore Canyon Preserve. If you’re looking to get out and beat the crowds, this is the spot for you: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/11/30/goodan-ranchsycamore-canyon-preserve-cardiac-hill-to-ridge-t.html . If not, enjoy the hike!

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.100peaks.com/2009/06/24/first-peak-completed-iron-mountain/, http://www.localhikes.com/Hikes/IronMtn_7320.asp, http://www.sdctc.com/san-diego-trails-iron-mountain, http://www.yelp.com/biz/iron-mountain-poway

Woodson Mountain, Eastern Approach

 Woodson Mountain from the CA-67 Eastern Approach

True confessions week on lastadventurer.com continues today with my second confession: I’m not a fan of the hike heading up the Eastern side of Woodson Mountain (a/k/a Mt. Woodson) in San Diego County. Perhaps I’ve done the hike too many times. Perhaps it’s because whenever I’ve done the hike, there’s tons of people on the trail. Or perhaps, it’s just difficult for me to get behind a hike that heads up an asphalt and dirt road and ends at a cluster of antennas. But, despite my opinion, Woodson remains a popular hike within the county, which confounds me, as San Diego has so many hikes that have better views, better locations, and don’t end with the aforementioned cluster of antennas. In my mind, it’s almost as if the antennas are emitting some sort of mind control signal to the surrounding county, “Cooooooooooome, cliiiiiimb Woodson.”  Perhaps I’m onto something here: I should start warning the public not to climb Woodson from the Eastern approach because the pod people will get them at the top. That’s right – you heard it here first. Don’t climb Woodson – it’s controlled by pod people (and rattlesnakes)!!!

 Woodson Mountain, Facing West, near the summit.

Directions (If you’re willing to take the risk):  The Eastern approach starts from the CA-67; I usually take Poway Road East to the junction with the CA-67 and from this point, the trailhead is three miles to the North. If you are not following this route, you want to take the CA-67 until it intersects with Hedy Drive. At this point, you should look for parking, either on the East side of the CA-67 (near Hedy Drive) or on the West side of the road near Mt. Woodson Road. I guarantee that there will be parked cars on either side of the road to further aid you in finding the location. Once you have parked, take care crossing the CA-67 if you are on the East side, and head to the trailhead which is well-marked, trodden and easy to follow near Mt. Woodson Road.

From the beginning of the hike, you will be on a well graded road that is paved for a majority of the time. The road/track/trail ascends somewhat steeply over the course of 1.8 miles and eventually reaches the summit of the mountain. In my opinion, the best portions of the hike are at or around three-quarters of a mile to the summit, when you pass a number of interesting free standing boulders. Should it not be too hot, these are a great spot to practice rock climbing and or bouldering. If it is spring or summertime, do keep an eye out for rattlesnakes in and around the boulders, as it seems to be an extraordinarily popular spot for them in my experience. Once you are past the boulders, you will be at the summit which has lots of antennas, and on clear days, an average view of the ocean and the surrounding area. (Sorry people, I’m just not buying that this is one of the best views in the county, even on bluebird days). From the top, it’s 1.8 miles back down to the road, for a roundtrip distance of 3.8 miles.

 A bit more of that Woodson Mountain panorama

Tips: My main tip is that unless you absolutely have to do this hike, hike somewhere else. Alright, that’s a bit harsh. I just think that there are better places to head in the county where you can see better views with less people, such as Corte Madera, Mt. Lawson, Stonewall Peak, Cuyamaca Peak, or heck, even Iron Mountain. But, on the plus side, Woodson Mountain is a great hike for a quick morning jaunt, and is a great way to get into the wilderness when you are pressed for time. The Eastern Route is also a great spot to bring up climbing mats for bouldering; and is a great spot for a quick, steep trail run that will test your hill climbing ability. In the summer, do bring a lot of water as the Eastern side is very exposed, and gets hot fast; and do watch for the aforementioned rattlesnakes. Last, do note that the “potato chip” rock is not at the summit of the mountain, but extends from a grouping of rocks off the trail.

So, if the pod people have persuaded you to go here and you have no other choice – see you on the trail!

More Information:  http://www.summitpost.org/woodson-mountain/282613, http://www.100peaks.com/2009/07/28/woodson-mountain-peak-5/,   http://www.sandiegoasap.com/mt-woodson.html

Stonewall Peak Photos, Circa 2000

Some oldies but goodies, Stonewall Peak from back in the day pre-2003 fires.

Lower Section Stonewall Peak TrailSurrounding Rancho Cuyamaca SPSummit View, Stonewall Peak

Stonewall Peak, Cuyamaca Rancho State Park

Heading up the lower section of the Stonewall Peak Trail, 2011

Some mountains are, and always will be eternal insurmountable giants. I know what you’re thinking at this point: “Duh, mountains are giants and they are eternal”. What I’m talking about here is not the literal portions of that sentence, but how mountains are perceived by each individual’s memory and mind. In this respect, there are many legendary peaks that everyone remembers as taller, tougher, and more rigorous than Mt. Everest, or more beautiful than the most pristine range that they know. In real life, however, these peaks are sadly smaller than Everest, and may or may not have the epic beauty of the Sound of Music. One of the first mountains that I climbed definitely fits this mold, and it is Stonewall Peak.

I first climbed Stonewall when I was small, as in legitimately small. I was so small, I wasn’t even a Wolf yet (If you’re not familiar with Cub Scouting ranks, here’s a handy pictorial chart http://usscouts.org/advance/cubscout/ranks.asp). After the first switchback I was tired, and I remember thinking, “I’m never going to be able to climb all of these turns!” (Yes, I didn’t know what switchbacks were yet, and called them turns. And yes, I once took a suitcase to Scout camp before I knew to bring a duffel or backpack. Ah, embarrassing memories). I remember passing under the old growth trees and gazing in wonder at their gnarled branches; and above all else, I remember clinging to the rail near the summit thinking I would fall through the clouds back to the earth below. Most of all, what I remember is the enormous sense of pride I felt at the summit as I gazed at the far off ocean in the distance (it was a very clear day).

Mid-trail, Stonewall Peak 2011

Since then I’ve been back to Stonewall many times, and know that the mountain is nowhere near as imposing as I thought it was back then. Despite all the times I’ve been there, I remember it as I first climbed it, the imposing monolith that stretched to the sky with a scent of dust and forest. Make no mistake; Stonewall is one of the classic hikes of San Diego County. Even though it is usually busy, and has seen a lot of recent wear from fires, I still make a point of heading up it at least once a year. It is also a great introduction to hiking in San Diego. I’ve led groups up the mountain to view the stars while cooking s’mores at the summit, and taught some basic climbing techniques on its shoulder, and it’s a great place to experience the wilderness, whether you are five or fifty.

Stonewall Peak is located in Rancho Cuyamaca State Park, across from the Paso Pichacho campground and day use area, which is where parking is located for the trail. (As of 2011, the Day Use fee is $10.00, http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=667). From Paso Pichacho, head directly across the street, and you will be on the Stonewall Peak trail. The earlier sections of the hike used to be well-forested, but the Cedar Fire of 2003 burned much of the surrounding area, and more recent fires have left the base exposed. After the first half mile, you will be under tree cover as you swing up and around the switchbacks to the peak. It can get fairly hot in some of the exposed sections during the summer, so do bring plenty of water. The last section of trail (.10 miles) traverses the exposed rock of the eastern ridge of the peak, which can bother people who are afraid of heights, but there is a well-affixed handrail to keep everyone safe. (http://www.100peaks.com/2009/12/09/stonewall-peak-peak-25-a-milestone-in-the-snow/). The summit has an amazing three hundred and sixty degree view of the surrounding area, from Lake Cuyamaca to the North, Mt. Cuyamaca to the West, and the Lagunas to the East. And while it is indeed rare, you can see the ocean on a clear day. (A great 360 view of this panorama is here:  http://www.nealwatkins.net/hiking/cuyamaca.shtml).

Cuyamaca Lake, 2011

I recommend that you take a snack, lunch, dinner, breakfast, or s’mores, and have a seat at the summit and watch the world unfold around you as you relax. The way back, when you are ready for it is the same way up, and the whole hike will run you four miles roundtrip (4.0), along with an 850 foot elevation gain. There’s also some good climbing spots by the summit should you be so inclined. http://www.summitpost.org/stonewall-peak/151714. Above all else, have a great time on one of the “100 peaks” of the 1946 Sierra Club list! http://angeles.sierraclub.org/hps/guides/32f.htm.

See you on the Trail!

Directions: http://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/23997/files/cuyamaca.pdf,

More Trail Reports Here: http://geekhiker.wordpress.com/2010/10/27/hike-stonewall-peak/

Goodan Ranch/Sycamore Canyon Preserve – Cardiac Hill to Ridge Trail Loop

Cardiac Hill - Not so steep, but a catchy name.

A couple months ago, I stopped by the Sycamore Canyon Preserve Highway 67 Staging area. Due to a lack of water, a hot day, and a late start, my party and I didn’t make it very far down the Ridge Trail. On the way out, I saw a small sign that said “Cardiac Hill”. When I saw that, I was curious. I was curious because the question that immediately popped into my head is the one that every Park Ranger hates, “But is that trail really that tough?” (I know it’s the question that every Park Ranger hates because I heard it a million times myself.) Rather than harass the Park Staff in some sort of weird role reversal, I instead vowed to come back and find out on my own.

 As I passed Iron Mountain on my way back to Sycamore Canyon this last Saturday, I could only shake my head at the hordes of people electing to hike Iron Mountain in a crowd, rather than heading down the road to Sycamore Canyon to spread out and enjoy some actual solitude. This haughty assumption was well founded, because as I pulled into the Highway 67 staging area I was utterly alone. The skeptical reader may assume that I, being the avid hiker that I am, got an early start and that was why I was alone at Sycamore Canyon. While I appreciate the vote of confidence, let me admit that by the time I arrived at Sycamore Canyon, it was 11:00 a.m. Let me say that again in case you missed it, because this is a good tip: at 11:00 a.m., when there was no parking, and hordes of people at Iron Mountain, there was an empty lot at Sycamore Canyon, not even two miles South, and plenty of natural solitude to go around, with near identical terrain, plants, and animals.

In any case, you probably want to know a little bit more about the park. The Goodan Ranch/Sycamore Canyon preserve is one of San Diego County’s Parks, and it consists of 2,272 acres of native Californian terrain, with over ten miles of trails, and it encompasses the former and now abandoned town of Stowe. (http://www.sdcounty.ca.gov/parks/openspace/Sycamore_Goodan.html). Sadly, much of the park burned during the 2003 Cedar Fire, but as you can see from the attached photos, the area is recovering at an amazing rate.

I parked at the Highway 67 staging area, and walked North to the Cardiac Hill trailhead, which was clearly signed. From there, I followed the well-laid and graded track into the Goodan Ranch portion of the park. On the way down Cardiac Hill, I saw expansive views of the former town of Stowe, Iron Mountain, and Mt. Woodson. Halfway down Cardiac Hill, I realized that it was not as difficult as it was billed – at least on the downhill portion. At 1.10 miles, I found myself at the bottom of the hill in the Goodan Ranch portion of the park (a panorama of which is seen here: http://www.youtube.com/user/lstad1#p/u/4/EoqgOBdJhiM). As the day was still young, I elected to continue heading straight (due West) at the trail junction for an additional .25 miles to the junction of the West Boundary Trail. At this junction, I swung left (South) and headed the half mile to the Ranger Station and Ranch House, or as I like to call it “New Stowe”. 

Panoramic View of the Preserve

New Stowe was by far the busiest portion of the park that day, where I saw a whopping four people, one of which was the Ranger. After checking out the interesting exhibits in the LEED rated Ranch Center, I hit the trail again, heading South. At first, I had thought that I would head back up Cardiac Hill, but after stopping, I decided I wanted to see more of the park, and that I would head back down and around on the Ridge Trail to the staging area. From the Ranger Station/New Stowe, it was a leisurely flat hike of approximately .7 miles to the Ridge Trail junction. Along this section, I passed quietly rustling sections of oaks and sycamores, with some seasonal sections of runoff burbling underneath. I was so relaxed by the calm, pastoral scene that I had come from I was almost unprepared for the straight vertical ascent that was the Ridge Trail.

 Some Yucca watching the ascent up the Ridge Trail

In retrospect, it really wasn’t that surprising – I had descended from the Highway 67 staging area at around 1200 feet high to the Goodan Ranch portion of the park, which was around 600 feet high. I always knew that I was going to have to climb back up to reach my car, and climb I did. In contrast to the Cardiac Hill trail, the Ridge Trail is a single track that traverses across some of the ridgeline that borders the South-Eastern portion of the park. While it’s not overly steep – or likely to cause someone to keel over in most cases, I did find myself working up a bit of a sweat (after all, it was 80 degrees, in direct sun, heading uphill), which was a good thing, and a great challenge, after cruising through the rest of park earlier that day. 1.75 miles later, I found myself back at the staging area, again alone, and looking at a whopping two cars next to mine. The whole loop hike was 3.8 miles roundtrip, probably an even 4.0 miles with a few side stops to look at things, and was a great, solitary moderate hike for anyone wishing to ditch the Iron Mountain crowds, or any crowd at all.

See you on the trail!

Directions: http://www.sdcounty.ca.gov/parks/openspace/Sycamore_Goodan.html

More Information: http://www.sdcounty.ca.gov/reusable_components/images/parks/doc/GoodanSycBrochure2011.pdf

Crest Canyon

Looking up Crest Canyon to the South

One of the best things about San Diego is that there are pockets of wilderness interspersed in urban settings. If you live in North County, one of the calmest stretches of trail is in Crest Canyon. Located off of San Dieguito Road to the North, and Durango Road to the South, Crest Canyon is part of the San Dieguito River Park. The Canyon is a great area to get away from work during lunch hour, or to walk through either before or after work to clear your head. From San Dieguito Road, the trail heads slightly uphill for .75 miles before heading up a slight sandstone grade to Durango Road, which then intersects with Del Mar Heights Road.

The Staircase at Durango 

Should you not wish to head up to Durango, you can loop back around on the parallel portion of the Crest Canyon trail back to the trailhead at San Dieguito. Depending on when you go, you may be lucky enough to see wildlife in this corridor – coyotes, skunks, and raccoons, but since Crest Canyon is close to Del Mar, you are more likely to see joggers, walkers, and other people looking for quiet time. In the spring (when it rains) the canyon fills up with California wildflowers, and some invasive species. 

Crest Canyon is also a great place for volunteer opportunities. Many local organizations work on the trail for service projects, and there is currently a burgeoning garden of native plants (with labels) for the novice outdoorsperson. The Canyon is dog friendly, and is also a great place to view the native Torrey Pine, which only grows in the Del Mar Region and the Channel Islands. If you’re looking for a bit of a challenge, you can park at San Dieguito, and jog up Crest Canyon before heading up to Durango, across Del Mar Heights, and into the northern portion of Torrey Pines State Reserve before again heading downward to the Los Penasquitos Lagoon (more on this later). However, if you don’t want a challenge, Crest Canyon is a great place to collect your thoughts, or start experiencing your local wilderness.

See you on the trail!

Looking North in Crest Canyon

For more information about Crest Canyon, check out the website of the San Dieguito River Conservancy: http://www.sdrp.org/archive/Trail%20Maps/Map_Crest%20Canyon%20Revised%20FINAL.pdf

Lusardi Loop Trail, Black Mountain Community Ranch Park

California Sunflowers only need so much sun

The popular perception of San Diego is that the weather never changes. In this sense, San Diego is the perpetual snowglobe of the United States: sun, palm trees, and blue skies, all day, every day. If you talk to a “local” (who is probably a transplant from somewhere else), and you talk weather, they’ll tell you that San Diego has the following seasons: Winter, equaling sunny, with smattered rain; Spring, equaling sunny with some fog; Summer, equaling sunny; and Fall, equaling sunny with some hot winds. If you talk to an actual local, they’ll fill your ear about the climactic variations of the city that are really not variations – “May Grey”, “June Gloom”, “Sort of Santa Annas”, and “Santa Annas”. While all of these perceptions are somewhat true, what is really true about San Diego is that there are seasonal changes. (Cue ominous music, right?)

These seasonal changes are best evidenced in the pockets of wilderness that are trapped within the county. I could pick many places to prove this point (such as the fall colors in Julian), but I only need one, and it is right smack in the middle of the county. Black Mountain Community Ranch Park is one of the “newer” parks in the County, comprising Black Mountain and several great stretches of trail along the nearby foothills. (http://www.sandiego.gov/park-and-recreation/parks/blackmtn/). It’s also the home of one of the yearly Xterra SoCal Trail Races (http://www.trailrace.com/blackmtn.html).

I ran the Black Mountain race back in 2010 (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/5/2/xterra-black-mountain-trail-run-march-14-2010-515k.html), and while I was booking it down the Lusardi Loop trail, I was impressed by the verdant green hills of the park. I was so impressed (maybe it was the lack of oxygen) that I told myself that I’d have to come back some time to check out the area at a much more relaxed, slower pace. After a few twists and turns, I found myself with a free couple of hours in early October of this year, and decided to hike the Lusardi Loop.

 Lusardi Loop - or Apocalyptic Wasteland? You tell me.

The trail is easy to find, right off of Carmel Valley Road (http://www.sandiego.gov/park-and-recreation/pdf/blackmountaintrailmap.pdf), and is easily accessible from the parking lot. One just walks through the parking lot and then it’s right there, next to the gate, and helpful wilderness kiosk board that warns you of death, mountain lions, and various other creepy crawlies. The first thing I noticed upon my return was that the area was dry. Not just dry, but sunblasted dry. The verdant hills of March? Gone. In their place? Miles upon miles upon miles of crispy cooked California Sunflowers. As I crunched down the well marked and well maintained trail, I could not help but marvel at the post-apocalyptic silence that followed me and rustled through the long dead plants. As I walked, it felt like I had stepped into a page from “The Road” (http://www.amazon.com/Road-Cormac-McCarthy/dp/0307265439); or was wandering between quests in the nuclear holocaust alternative reality of Fallout.

Despite my imaginative flights of fancy about who set the world on fire, the developments of the last twenty years were in plain view off to the East as I walked along, so I had no reason to wonder about which world I was in exactly, just as I had no need to wonder whether San Diego had seasons (from green to crunchy). Overall, the trail is a peaceful hike; and can range from a 3.3 mile loop, or a 9.9 mile loop that stretches out to near the San Dieguito River Park. As far as San Diego hikes go, I’d have to admit that I enjoy running it/riding the trail on my bike over trekking it, but it does get points for solitude. What I will say is that if you’re looking for a place to get away from it all where the grass whispers, or the sunflowers rustle, this is your spot. See you on the trail!