Sentinel Dome Trail (2012)

Sentinel Dome Trail, Spring 2012When I was in Yosemite a couple weeks ago, I had the opportunity to get up and about on the South Rim for a bit. As always, the South Rim still has a bit of snow accumulation that remains due to less sun exposure and higher elevations. Rather than take in the view of the High Country from Glacier Point, I elected to take an early morning walk up to Sentinel Dome to see how the park looked in early spring while I ate my breakfast. I parked at the Sentinel Dome trailhead, a couple of miles shy of Glacier Point, and noticed two things: that the meadow at the trailhead still had occasional drifts of snow that were approximately six (6) inches to one (1) foot high in several locations; and that these drifts completely covered the trail heading South towards Taft Point.

Since I wasn’t heading toward Taft Point that day, I had no route-finding concerns, and immediately set out across the meadow toward Sentinel Dome. After crossing the meadow, I encountered my only route-finding challenge of the day, crossing the creek within .10 miles of the trailhead. From the South side, the bridge was not readily apparent at that point in time; however, the creek was not running high enough that it could not be crossed in several other locations, which is what I did with a quick jump. From that point, the trail was easily visible, and had little to no snow accumulation present on it.

At about the half mile mark from the trailhead (.5) there was a large tree that had fallen and was blocking the trail, but aside from that, the trail was clear and easy to follow all the way to the summit. The only snow accumulation I saw on the trail was on the final ascent of the dome, which had some small lingering snowfields of slushy snow by midday. I don’t expect that those remaining patches of snow on the dome will last much longer due to the direct sun exposure they are receiving. From the summit, I had a great breakfast view of the surrounding areas, which made me really realize what a dry winter California experienced, but other than that, it was a great hike!

Directions: I followed the standard route that I discussed here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/8/sentinel-dome-yosemite-national-park.html, and based on the conditions, anytime between now and winter would be a great time to do this hike.

Sentinel Dome Summit, Spring 2012

Mist Trail to Nevada Fall, Yosemite National Park (2012)

Vernal Fall, Spring 2012

After I wrote a couple articles about the Mist Trail last year (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html), I received a number of e-mails wondering when the best time was to hike the Mist Trail. In all honesty, I’d say now what I said then – anytime is the best time to hike the Mist Trail to either Vernal or Nevada Fall. However, for 2012, if you are looking to experience “the mist” and want to get wet, now would be the best time to hike the Mist Trail.

The reason right now is the best time to do this hike is simple: the snowpack is already melting. As I’ve said on many occasions this year, 2012 was a bad year for the Sierra snowpack as California has had a warm winter. At this point, from about two weeks ago until mid-summer, what snow was present at the higher elevations will be melting – and at times, melting rapidly. This means that this year, from mid-to late summer, the rivers and seasonal flows will be running at a low level, or not at all. When rivers and other seasonal flows are at a low level, what waterfalls that exist flow at a low level, or not at all.

Mist Trail, Spring 2012

So, if you want to get wet, now, is the time to go for 2012, before all of the snowpack melts. When I was recently in Yosemite, I hiked the Mist Trail up to a tenth of a mile under Nevada Falls. I would have gone all the way up to Nevada Falls and come back down the John Muir Trail, but earlier in the day I had been hiking in another area of the park, and at that point, was perfectly content to take it a little easy.

From what I saw on my hike, the trail is in good to excellent condition, with few dead trees and branches on the trail to Nevada Fall. No snow remains on any section of the trail to Nevada Fall, and from my observations of that area as well as other areas of the park, the snowline is running at ~8500 feet or higher, depending on the sun exposure of the area. As conditions are warm, and only going to get warmer, it’s a great time to get out and do this hike!

Directions: As noted in previous articles, you’re going to either want to take the Yosemite Park Bus to Happy Isles, where the trailhead for the Mist Trail is, or you’re going to want to bike or walk there. Further directions on distances and everything else can be found here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html .

More Tips: Another good reason to hike this trail this time of year is the opportunity to see wildlife – on my recent hike, I saw a number of animals that will likely not be present during the busy summer season. As for traffic on the trail: it was busy, but it will only be getting busier as the season progresses, so get out there to avoid the rush while you can!

Nevada Fall, Spring 2012

Skiing/Snowshoeing/Hiking the Mariposa Grove in Wintertime

The Mariposa Grove in Winter

The first thing you notice when you enter the Mariposa Grove in the dead of winter is the silence. (http://youtu.be/uImXDsJ4VNA) The distant rumble of buses, the clarion call of horns, and the screech of car brakes are all gone. The babble of a multitude of voices speaking the languages of the world is also gone. Even the mild chatter of squirrels and scrub jays fighting over food is gone as well. There is nothing but silence. Then, you hear it. You hear the slight sliding sounds of snow shifting off of tree limbs before hitting the ground with gentle whumps. You hear the distant rustle of branches being shifted by the cold winter wind. Then, you hear the voices of the trees, groaning and cracking under the weight of snow and ice, shifting their limbs, and delving their roots into the sierra soil, and you realize that even though man is gone, and there is no noise, the grove is not really silent, it has just reverted back to its state of nature.

And that is what you realize second, as you stand before the Grizzly Giant, and other massive monoliths of the Mariposa Grove. You realize that Yosemite only became a park in 1864 when Lincoln signed the Yosemite Grant, and before that, these Giant Sequoias were there. You realize that even before that, when Galen Clark “found” the Mariposa Grove in 1857, these trees were already there. That when the Declaration of Independence was signed, these trees were still there. That the trees were there when Columbus discovered the New World, and that they were there well before that, as the Grizzly Giant is over 2,400 years old, and was there, in that spot, well before the modern world. That’s when you realize that you’re standing in a spot that is timeless, meaning in this case, that it is almost outside of time – these trees have existed like this, withstanding the depredations of hot, cold, fire, ice, and more in the same spot and in the same manner for millennia. If standing in that spot doesn’t blow your mind and make you feel like you could be standing there at any time for the last 2,400 odd years, or that those trees have stood there before man knew them, and will likely be there after man knows them, then there’s nothing I can say to you to make you wonder and marvel at this aspect of nature. But for the rest of us, let me give you some directions!

The Grizzly Giant in Winter

Directions:       If there is enough snow, NPS will have closed the summer access road to the Mariposa Grove, and there will be parking immediately next to the Entrance Station off of Highway 41 at the South Entrance of the park. From this lot, it is a two mile ski/snowshoe/walk to the Grove. Astute readers will note that I have provided three options to get to the grove and have not recommended one particular method. This is because you yourself will have to judge how the conditions are to determine which method of transportation will be the best for you. Last year, I walked in as there was a solid base layer of snow that I would not posthole through. I also chose to walk because I had torn off my cross country ski boot binding the day before, but that’s another story. In any event, the two miles up the road is an easy, mildly sloping trek/ski/snowshoe. Should you elect to stop here, your mileage will be four miles roundtrip. Should you elect to continue on (as highly recommended above), your mileage will vary between six (6) to eight (8) miles roundtrip. All of the mileage that you will accrue heading through the grove is mild; and even if you elect to go the full eight miles, or longer, I would rate this as an easy to moderate trek/ski/snowhoe.

Tips:    Snowshoers, don’t walk in the cross country ski track. Cross country skiers, don’t ski over snowshoers. Hikers, don’t walk in the cross country ski track, and don’t fall on snowshoers. Do note that the bathrooms at the Grove will likely be closed due to winter conditions, so plan accordingly. And, speaking of planning accordingly, be prepared for winter conditions on your excursion, because if you’re doing this in the wintertime, it will be cold. Above all else, take your time, and be prepared for a magical experience. Aaaaaaaand, don’t shout, just in case there are other people there trying to have their own magical timeless moment. Also, watch out for falling snow from tree branches. It can be a cold, sudden surprise.

See you on the trail!

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/loader.cfm?csModule=security/getfile&PageID=134999, http://www.yosemitehikes.com/southern-yosemite/mariposa-grove/mariposa-grove.htm, http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/mg.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariposa_Grove

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Winter)

Looking towards Illouette, Mist Trail 2010

There is one trailhead, and one trailhead only in Yosemite. At least, that is what you would think if you ever read anything about Yosemite, heard anything about Yosemite, or watched the hordes of people either walking or riding park shuttles to this spot. That spot, and that trailhead is, and can only be one place: Happy Isles. That is the trailhead that takes you to a number of stunning places, but most importantly, it takes you to the two most visited destinations in the park: the Mist Trail , and Half Dome. Astute readers of this blog will stop at this point and think, “Wait a minute. So-and-so said the Mist Trail was the best hike they’d ever been on. How can that be, if he just said that it’s one of the most visited trails in the park? Can that be right?”

To those astute readers, I have sad news. The Mist Trail is the most popular trail in the park, bar none.

On a hot summer day, the trail is always chock full of people just as Los Angeles freeways are always chock full of cars. I guarantee it. Even more damning (to some people), the trail is – wait for it – partially paved. Now, if these two things are deal breakers for you, read no further, but at least look at the pretty pictures I’ve attached, because the scenery is beautiful. For the rest of us, let me tell you this: yes, the Mist Trail is the most popular trail. Yes, you may be surrounded by people, and yes, that can be difficult at times. But the hike is still stunning. It is a chance to walk directly next to, and under Vernal Falls, alongside the Merced River, and to the top of the falls, where great views of Yosemite Valley, Liberty Cap, along with other portions of the park. It is the most popular trail, and hike: but it is that way for a reason. You should not not hike it just because it is popular, as this is one of those situations where the masses are right.

Snowmelt on the Mist Trail, 2010

Directions: Well, you’re going to leave from the Happy Isles trailhead. I believe I mentioned that somewhere, but in case I didn’t, you’re going to take the Happy Isles trailhead. You can either take the free park shuttle to that location (Stop Number 16), or you can potentially find parking at Curry Village, and walk from there (if you walk from Curry Village, add an extra .75 miles distance each way, for a roundtrip distance bonus of 1.5 miles). From the trailhead, follow the paved portion uphill (believe me, you will not get lost, as you will be around many people, and there are no turnouts) for .75 miles to the bridge crossing the Merced River. From the bridge, you can see Vernal Fall, and if you’re feeling it, this is a great place to stop and watch the Merced and the waterfall.

For the hiking purists, from this point, the trail is not paved. Once you are across the bridge, you will continue to follow the trail up, and you will pass the John Muir Trail (“JMT”) junction on your right (.2 miles from the bridge). Do not take the JMT unless you are going to Nevada Falls, or other destinations that are further away, such as Mt. Whitney. Once you pass the JMT junction, you will come upon a gate for the Mist Trail that is closed in winter. This is the actual portion of the Mist trail, and from this point, you will get wet.

Heading up the Mist Trail in 2010The last section of the trail traverses alongside the Merced River, and is right next to and under Vernal Falls. This section of trail is constantly deluged/soaked/drenched with water from the falls. Unless it is a drought year, or a part of the year where the falls are not raging, you, your gear, and everything on you, will get wet. Watch your step as you head up the 600 or so steps up the remaining .5 miles to the top of the waterfall. Once you are at the top, you will have a great view of the Merced from the edge of the waterfall. From there, you can either proceed up to Nevada Falls, and Little Yosemite Valley, or you can return back to Happy Isles the way you came.

My Tip: As this is the most popular hike in the park, and is beyond well known, I’d suggest that you do this hike during the off-season if you can. If you are in the park in late spring, fall, or early winter, you will find the trail mostly empty. Moreover, at these times, you will find that you enjoy this hike more than being stuck with hordes of people on the trail in the summer. In 2010, I hiked up the Mist Trail in late November, a week after a fresh snowfall, and had an amazing experience. As you can see from the absence of people in these photos, in those conditions, it did not look like the most popular trail in the park, but it did look like a winter wonderland.

Disclaimer: The National Park Service closes the last .5 miles of the Mist Trail in the dead of winter as it is a treacherous ascent with ice and snow. I would not recommend you proceed in these conditions as there is little to no room for error. However, if you feel like you are up to the task, bring the proper gear, know that you are on your own, and watch this video here: http://youtu.be/ybrDF3wCdMU

Vernal Fall, Winter 2010

Other Facts:  The hike is 3 miles roundtrip, plus or minus any distance you add from hiking from Curry Village or other destinations. You will gain 1,000 feet of elevation from the valley floor to the top of the falls, and you will likely have an excellent time! (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm)

See you on the trail!

 Hiking Superhighway? Not in winter!

More Information: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/mist-trail/mist-trail.htm,  http://timberlinetrails.net/YosemiteMistTrail.html, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Happy-Isles-topo-map.jpg, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mist_Trail

Sentinel Dome, Yosemite National Park

After John Muir, Ansel Adams is probably the next famous name that people think of when they think of Yosemite. While Ansel Adams has many stunning shots of the park, perhaps one of his most famous shots was that of the lone Jeffrey Pine atop Sentinel Dome. If you haven’t seen the shot because you’ve been living on the moon, it looks like this: http://www.anseladams.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5010114-u. This shot inspired thousands, if not tens of thousands of people to make the trek up to Sentinel Dome and to take their own pictures of the lone Jeffrey Pine at a variety of angles, either seeking to emulate the master, or to try and provide a new iconic shot. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/46457020@N00/224779782/). Sadly, the tree died in 1976, and ultimately collapsed in 2003. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sentinel_Dome). 

At this point, you may think, “Well, now that the tree is gone, there’s no reason to go there.” To this assertion, I merely say this: “Au contrere, my friend, au contrere”. While the tree was special, magical, and amazing (I would know, I spent a night under it while it still stood, and despite the four feet of snow atop the dome and around me, had a spectacular night of stargazing and discussion), the Dome is also pretty interesting on its own. For starters, it’s the second highest peak in the valley at 8,122 feet, coming in a close second to that other well-traveled mountain – Half Dome. Second, it is easily accessible from either the Four Mile Trail in the Valley, or the Sentinel Dome Trail off of Glacier Point Road. Third, it has an amazing three hundred and sixty degree view of Yosemite Valley, and the park (similar to the amazing panorama from atop Mt. Hoffman, in my opinion). And fourth, it has better views and is less croweded than the Glacier Point Overlook, in my opinion.

Either route to the top of Sentinel Dome is easy to find, and easy to follow. The Four Mile Trail from the Valley is definitely the more strenuous option, as you will be gaining over four thousand feet of elevation, and covering a distance of over ten miles round trip. The route I would recommend for most people is from the Sentinel Dome Parking area, immediately off Glacier Point Road. (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/glacierhikes.htm). From the parking area, it is a 1.1 mile hike to the top of the dome, and you will only gain 500 vertical feet. I’d rate the hike as easy, as it meanders over mostly flat terrain before there is a slight scramble to the top of the dome for the last tenth of a mile. At the top, there is that aforementioned three hundred and sixty degree view, the remains of the Jeffrey Pine, and the sense of accomplishment of having likely bagged your first Yosemite summit.

I was in the park in mid-November of this year, and since we’ve been having a dry winter, I was able to again summit the peak with little to no difficulty, as the trail was mostly free of snow. As it was a perfect bluebird day, I was able to shoot this panoramic video: http://www.youtube.com/user/lstad1#p/a/u/0/4X_niPQCxJY

 Tips:    Take a meal and enjoy the view! For the more adventurous, head on up on a night with no moon, and be prepared for some amazing stargazing. Or, for a change of pace, head up the dome under the Full Moon, and be ready to see the park lit up in phantasmagorical black and surreal white.

More Information: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/glacier-point-road/sentinel-dome/sentinel-dome.htm, http://gregable.com/2007/10/sentinel-dome-jeffrey-pine-in-yosemite.html

See you on the trail!