Cross Country Skiing Yosemite Valley

Fresh powder in El Capitan Meadow

The best time to visit Yosemite Valley is the winter. Sure, the valley is spectacular in the summer, and there is never a bad time to visit Yosemite, but if you want to avoid the crowds, the best time is the winter. In the winter, the snow falls on the granite monoliths surrounding the valley before trickling down to blanket the trees and floor in white silence. In the winter, everything moves at a slow and tranquil rate – including the Merced River. The coating of ice and cold silences summer’s lingering noise and lets Yosemite Valley recapture its wild glory.

The best way to see this primal beauty? On foot, of course. You can walk part – or all of the Valley Floor loop (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm), or if you’re extraordinarily lucky as I was last year in 2010, you can cross country ski around the valley. (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wintersports.htm) Now, as the NPS link states, there is rarely enough accumulation in the valley proper to do this, but sometimes, the internet doesn’t know everything. 2010 was a banner year for snow in the Sierras, and when I arrived in Yosemite for my yearly fall visit last November, I found myself arriving a day after several feet of fresh powder had been deposited over the entirety of the park.

Obviously, I was lucky – my timing was impeccable. These conditions existed on a Wednesday, and the storm had just passed the day before on a Tuesday, leaving perfect cold bluebird conditions at all elevations. There were few people in the park; and fewer still in the valley, where I parked my car alongside the road before strapping on my skis. To be honest, I felt a little guilty cutting fresh tracks across pristine, empty meadows under the mountains watchful eyes; and I was upbraided at one point by a raven for being too noisy as I passed alongside the burbling Merced; but in the end, it was an amazing experience. The valley was deathly silent from El Capitan meadow to points East and West, and I was able to again appreciate the timeless stillness of Yosemite Valley that has captivated people for centuries. And, if the photos don’t give you an idea of what the valley looks like when its deathly silent, this video will: http://youtu.be/PbV0gFTjcR0

 Fresh powder in Yosemite Valley

My Tip: If you are arriving in Yosemite after a recent snowfall, take a moment to see what the conditions are in the valley. It’s a great spot for beginners to learn as it is flat; and it’s a great spot to cross country ski regardless because of the natural features. Obviously, as Yosemite Valley only has an elevation of 4,000 feet, there will be a limited amount of opportunities to ski the valley, but if you’re lucky enough, I’d definitely recommend it for a good morning warm-up before heading on to more difficult terrain at Badger Pass or Crane Flat. The most open expanses are down by El Capitan meadow; but should there be enough snow, you should be able to tour most of the valley as I did.

See you in the powder!

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Summer)

The start of the "Mist Trail" proper

So, you’ve been warned. Not just by me, but by every guide book, blog, friends, and family. You’ve heard the horror stories. You’ve listened to the not-so-dire-warnings. For whatever reason, you really, really want to do the Mist Trail in the summer. I could tell you tales that would curdle your blood, that a majority of park service rescues occur on the Mist Trail in the summertime, or that the majority of deaths that occur in the park occur on this section of the trail (mostly from people falling over the falls), or that hungry bears regularly carry off unsuspecting tourists from the trail and eat them to fatten up for the winter, and you’d still want to do the Mist Trail in the summer. 

And you know what? I’m not going to tell you not to. There’s plenty of reasons why you want to do it in the summer. First, the best time to see the fall is right after the snow melts, when it seems like there is more water in the Merced River than it can possibly accommodate. Second, summertime is vacation time, and any time you’re on vacation, it’s the time to have an adventure, regardless of whole else is there. Third, like it or not, Happy Isles/the Mist Trail/the beginning of the John Muir Trail is the gateway to many backpacking and multi-day adventures. And fourth, why the heck not – it’s there!

Directions: Same as the last two posts. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html)

 Vernal Falls, 2002

Tips: The best tip I can give you is to get an early start. Even then, you won’t beat the crowds. You will, however, beat the hordes. If you are heading up the trail around 10:00 a.m. through 3:00 p.m., expect to be backpack-to-backpack the whole way with other people. The other reason to get a good start: you will avoid being caught out in a late-afternoon thunderstorm.

The next best tip I can give you is to wear solid shoes. Yes, the stairs of the Mist Trail can be traversed in bare feet, thong sandals, Chaco’s, tevas, high heels, and completely destroyed sneakers. But, just because you can do it, doesn’t mean you have to. In the summertime, the trail is completely covered with water, which makes the granite slick, and your footing uncertain. In many spots, should you slip, you will experience a near fatal to fatal fall, even though the terrain is not that daunting. I say: why risk it? Wear something you’ll be comfortable in, and something that you can trust. Furthermore, as the trail is crowded, you will be forced into weird positions as people run past you, or descend in front of you. You’re better off with something that will keep your footing secure, and your feet happy.

Additionally, if you want to be happy, insulate your gear properly whether you’re backpacking or daypacking. The last thing you want is a completely ruined camera or cell phone, or a completely soaked sleeping bag on the first night of your trip. Along with insulating your gear, bring a good coat should you not want to be completely soaked on the ascent and descent. Then again, if it’s a blazing hot day, don’t bring a coat, it’ll feel great to be naturally cooled!

Vernal Falls, 2007 

As my final tip, I will say this: watch out for rodents. Squirrels, chipmunks, and other small woodland creatures know the Mist Trail almost as well as people do. Should you leave your bag unattended at the top of the falls, or at certain other spots on the trail, you will likely find that you have picked up a furry hitchhiker, who will either jump out of your bag, giving you heart palpitations, poo in your bag (nasty), or chew their way out of your bag. Avoid this problem by watching your surroundings, and not feeding the animals.

Things Not To Do: There’s probably plenty, but I’ll stick to the one that is guaranteed to end your life. At the top of Vernal Falls, there is a fence that is at the end of the granite and anywhere between no inches and two feet from the top of the waterfall, depending on the water flow. The fence extends back up the river a fair ways, and then stops. Do not, under any circumstances climb over the fence. Let me make this even more clear: do not climb over this fence if you want to live. This isn’t just me telling you this – there are NPS signs all over the fence warning you. This isn’t just NPS telling you this either, this is your common sense speaking. When you are at the top of the falls, you can see for yourself: this is a several hundred foot drop. The waterfall is right there. The river is flowing rapidly. Should you step over that fence, you know that you will likely be dead. It is not worth the risk in any way. I don’t care how hot it is, how much fun it looks, how daring you are, how lucky you are, how funny it is, it’s just not worth it. I used to warn/lecture people when I worked there, and I still do (in an unofficial capacity now, kind of lame, I know). Don’t take it from me though: there’s plenty of stories this year about people who didn’t make it: (http://www.cnn.com/2011/12/05/us/california-yosemite-body-recovered/index.html?hpt=hp_t3). So, out of all the things you should not do: don’t do that.

 Vernal Falls Single Rainbow

Other than that lecture, have a great time, and see you on the trail!

Sentinel Dome, Yosemite National Park

After John Muir, Ansel Adams is probably the next famous name that people think of when they think of Yosemite. While Ansel Adams has many stunning shots of the park, perhaps one of his most famous shots was that of the lone Jeffrey Pine atop Sentinel Dome. If you haven’t seen the shot because you’ve been living on the moon, it looks like this: http://www.anseladams.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5010114-u. This shot inspired thousands, if not tens of thousands of people to make the trek up to Sentinel Dome and to take their own pictures of the lone Jeffrey Pine at a variety of angles, either seeking to emulate the master, or to try and provide a new iconic shot. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/46457020@N00/224779782/). Sadly, the tree died in 1976, and ultimately collapsed in 2003. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sentinel_Dome). 

At this point, you may think, “Well, now that the tree is gone, there’s no reason to go there.” To this assertion, I merely say this: “Au contrere, my friend, au contrere”. While the tree was special, magical, and amazing (I would know, I spent a night under it while it still stood, and despite the four feet of snow atop the dome and around me, had a spectacular night of stargazing and discussion), the Dome is also pretty interesting on its own. For starters, it’s the second highest peak in the valley at 8,122 feet, coming in a close second to that other well-traveled mountain – Half Dome. Second, it is easily accessible from either the Four Mile Trail in the Valley, or the Sentinel Dome Trail off of Glacier Point Road. Third, it has an amazing three hundred and sixty degree view of Yosemite Valley, and the park (similar to the amazing panorama from atop Mt. Hoffman, in my opinion). And fourth, it has better views and is less croweded than the Glacier Point Overlook, in my opinion.

Either route to the top of Sentinel Dome is easy to find, and easy to follow. The Four Mile Trail from the Valley is definitely the more strenuous option, as you will be gaining over four thousand feet of elevation, and covering a distance of over ten miles round trip. The route I would recommend for most people is from the Sentinel Dome Parking area, immediately off Glacier Point Road. (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/glacierhikes.htm). From the parking area, it is a 1.1 mile hike to the top of the dome, and you will only gain 500 vertical feet. I’d rate the hike as easy, as it meanders over mostly flat terrain before there is a slight scramble to the top of the dome for the last tenth of a mile. At the top, there is that aforementioned three hundred and sixty degree view, the remains of the Jeffrey Pine, and the sense of accomplishment of having likely bagged your first Yosemite summit.

I was in the park in mid-November of this year, and since we’ve been having a dry winter, I was able to again summit the peak with little to no difficulty, as the trail was mostly free of snow. As it was a perfect bluebird day, I was able to shoot this panoramic video: http://www.youtube.com/user/lstad1#p/a/u/0/4X_niPQCxJY

 Tips:    Take a meal and enjoy the view! For the more adventurous, head on up on a night with no moon, and be prepared for some amazing stargazing. Or, for a change of pace, head up the dome under the Full Moon, and be ready to see the park lit up in phantasmagorical black and surreal white.

More Information: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/glacier-point-road/sentinel-dome/sentinel-dome.htm, http://gregable.com/2007/10/sentinel-dome-jeffrey-pine-in-yosemite.html

See you on the trail!