The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Winter)

Looking towards Illouette, Mist Trail 2010

There is one trailhead, and one trailhead only in Yosemite. At least, that is what you would think if you ever read anything about Yosemite, heard anything about Yosemite, or watched the hordes of people either walking or riding park shuttles to this spot. That spot, and that trailhead is, and can only be one place: Happy Isles. That is the trailhead that takes you to a number of stunning places, but most importantly, it takes you to the two most visited destinations in the park: the Mist Trail , and Half Dome. Astute readers of this blog will stop at this point and think, “Wait a minute. So-and-so said the Mist Trail was the best hike they’d ever been on. How can that be, if he just said that it’s one of the most visited trails in the park? Can that be right?”

To those astute readers, I have sad news. The Mist Trail is the most popular trail in the park, bar none.

On a hot summer day, the trail is always chock full of people just as Los Angeles freeways are always chock full of cars. I guarantee it. Even more damning (to some people), the trail is – wait for it – partially paved. Now, if these two things are deal breakers for you, read no further, but at least look at the pretty pictures I’ve attached, because the scenery is beautiful. For the rest of us, let me tell you this: yes, the Mist Trail is the most popular trail. Yes, you may be surrounded by people, and yes, that can be difficult at times. But the hike is still stunning. It is a chance to walk directly next to, and under Vernal Falls, alongside the Merced River, and to the top of the falls, where great views of Yosemite Valley, Liberty Cap, along with other portions of the park. It is the most popular trail, and hike: but it is that way for a reason. You should not not hike it just because it is popular, as this is one of those situations where the masses are right.

Snowmelt on the Mist Trail, 2010

Directions: Well, you’re going to leave from the Happy Isles trailhead. I believe I mentioned that somewhere, but in case I didn’t, you’re going to take the Happy Isles trailhead. You can either take the free park shuttle to that location (Stop Number 16), or you can potentially find parking at Curry Village, and walk from there (if you walk from Curry Village, add an extra .75 miles distance each way, for a roundtrip distance bonus of 1.5 miles). From the trailhead, follow the paved portion uphill (believe me, you will not get lost, as you will be around many people, and there are no turnouts) for .75 miles to the bridge crossing the Merced River. From the bridge, you can see Vernal Fall, and if you’re feeling it, this is a great place to stop and watch the Merced and the waterfall.

For the hiking purists, from this point, the trail is not paved. Once you are across the bridge, you will continue to follow the trail up, and you will pass the John Muir Trail (“JMT”) junction on your right (.2 miles from the bridge). Do not take the JMT unless you are going to Nevada Falls, or other destinations that are further away, such as Mt. Whitney. Once you pass the JMT junction, you will come upon a gate for the Mist Trail that is closed in winter. This is the actual portion of the Mist trail, and from this point, you will get wet.

Heading up the Mist Trail in 2010The last section of the trail traverses alongside the Merced River, and is right next to and under Vernal Falls. This section of trail is constantly deluged/soaked/drenched with water from the falls. Unless it is a drought year, or a part of the year where the falls are not raging, you, your gear, and everything on you, will get wet. Watch your step as you head up the 600 or so steps up the remaining .5 miles to the top of the waterfall. Once you are at the top, you will have a great view of the Merced from the edge of the waterfall. From there, you can either proceed up to Nevada Falls, and Little Yosemite Valley, or you can return back to Happy Isles the way you came.

My Tip: As this is the most popular hike in the park, and is beyond well known, I’d suggest that you do this hike during the off-season if you can. If you are in the park in late spring, fall, or early winter, you will find the trail mostly empty. Moreover, at these times, you will find that you enjoy this hike more than being stuck with hordes of people on the trail in the summer. In 2010, I hiked up the Mist Trail in late November, a week after a fresh snowfall, and had an amazing experience. As you can see from the absence of people in these photos, in those conditions, it did not look like the most popular trail in the park, but it did look like a winter wonderland.

Disclaimer: The National Park Service closes the last .5 miles of the Mist Trail in the dead of winter as it is a treacherous ascent with ice and snow. I would not recommend you proceed in these conditions as there is little to no room for error. However, if you feel like you are up to the task, bring the proper gear, know that you are on your own, and watch this video here: http://youtu.be/ybrDF3wCdMU

Vernal Fall, Winter 2010

Other Facts:  The hike is 3 miles roundtrip, plus or minus any distance you add from hiking from Curry Village or other destinations. You will gain 1,000 feet of elevation from the valley floor to the top of the falls, and you will likely have an excellent time! (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm)

See you on the trail!

 Hiking Superhighway? Not in winter!

More Information: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/mist-trail/mist-trail.htm,  http://timberlinetrails.net/YosemiteMistTrail.html, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Happy-Isles-topo-map.jpg, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mist_Trail

Total Lunar Eclipse, December 10, 2011

If you're like me and you like stargazing, and looking for other rare astral phenomena, you are in for a treat tonight (assuming you're on the right part of the planet!). In the early hours of December 10, 2011, there will be a total lunar eclipse, and if that wasn't cool enough, it will be the last total lunar eclipse for the next three years. So, if you're in spot where you can see it, and the weather is just right, get out there, and don't miss it!

See you on the dark side of the moon!

Great Info here: http://shadowandsubstance.com/

More Info Here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/December_2011_lunar_eclipse, http://www.space.com/13856-total-lunar-eclipse-rare-senelion.html, http://eclipse.gsfc.nasa.gov/OH/OHfigures/OH2011-Fig06.pdf

Sentinel Dome Pictures, Yosemite National Park

The infamous fallen Jeffrey Pine, circa 2007More photos of the infamous fallen Jeffrey Pine...Free standing glacial boulders atop Sentinel DomeThe highest point in Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, viewed from the second highest, Sentinel Dome

Sentinel Dome, Yosemite National Park

After John Muir, Ansel Adams is probably the next famous name that people think of when they think of Yosemite. While Ansel Adams has many stunning shots of the park, perhaps one of his most famous shots was that of the lone Jeffrey Pine atop Sentinel Dome. If you haven’t seen the shot because you’ve been living on the moon, it looks like this: http://www.anseladams.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5010114-u. This shot inspired thousands, if not tens of thousands of people to make the trek up to Sentinel Dome and to take their own pictures of the lone Jeffrey Pine at a variety of angles, either seeking to emulate the master, or to try and provide a new iconic shot. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/46457020@N00/224779782/). Sadly, the tree died in 1976, and ultimately collapsed in 2003. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sentinel_Dome). 

At this point, you may think, “Well, now that the tree is gone, there’s no reason to go there.” To this assertion, I merely say this: “Au contrere, my friend, au contrere”. While the tree was special, magical, and amazing (I would know, I spent a night under it while it still stood, and despite the four feet of snow atop the dome and around me, had a spectacular night of stargazing and discussion), the Dome is also pretty interesting on its own. For starters, it’s the second highest peak in the valley at 8,122 feet, coming in a close second to that other well-traveled mountain – Half Dome. Second, it is easily accessible from either the Four Mile Trail in the Valley, or the Sentinel Dome Trail off of Glacier Point Road. Third, it has an amazing three hundred and sixty degree view of Yosemite Valley, and the park (similar to the amazing panorama from atop Mt. Hoffman, in my opinion). And fourth, it has better views and is less croweded than the Glacier Point Overlook, in my opinion.

Either route to the top of Sentinel Dome is easy to find, and easy to follow. The Four Mile Trail from the Valley is definitely the more strenuous option, as you will be gaining over four thousand feet of elevation, and covering a distance of over ten miles round trip. The route I would recommend for most people is from the Sentinel Dome Parking area, immediately off Glacier Point Road. (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/glacierhikes.htm). From the parking area, it is a 1.1 mile hike to the top of the dome, and you will only gain 500 vertical feet. I’d rate the hike as easy, as it meanders over mostly flat terrain before there is a slight scramble to the top of the dome for the last tenth of a mile. At the top, there is that aforementioned three hundred and sixty degree view, the remains of the Jeffrey Pine, and the sense of accomplishment of having likely bagged your first Yosemite summit.

I was in the park in mid-November of this year, and since we’ve been having a dry winter, I was able to again summit the peak with little to no difficulty, as the trail was mostly free of snow. As it was a perfect bluebird day, I was able to shoot this panoramic video: http://www.youtube.com/user/lstad1#p/a/u/0/4X_niPQCxJY

 Tips:    Take a meal and enjoy the view! For the more adventurous, head on up on a night with no moon, and be prepared for some amazing stargazing. Or, for a change of pace, head up the dome under the Full Moon, and be ready to see the park lit up in phantasmagorical black and surreal white.

More Information: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/glacier-point-road/sentinel-dome/sentinel-dome.htm, http://gregable.com/2007/10/sentinel-dome-jeffrey-pine-in-yosemite.html

See you on the trail!

Tunnel View, Yosemite National Park

Tunnel View, Yosemite 2010

I know this place. It’s a place unlike any other on earth, it’s magical, it’s mystical, it’s beautiful, it’s amazing, it’s stunning, it’s everything that you’d want the wilderness to potentially be; and it’s only visited by millions of people a year. It’s called Yosemite. You might have heard of it. I’d like to sit here, and tell you all sorts of amazing things about Yosemite, about the park’s history, about the park’s geology, about the park’s geography, and about everything in between. But you know what? That’s all been written. And for me to say that sounds a little bit like a cop-out, but let me be honest with you: in that respect, there’s nothing I can tell you that hasn’t been written in a better researched and more thorough way by other professionals. (Besides, you know that I’m going to mix in some facts in with my articles, anyways, so there’s nothing to be too depressed about, really. If you’ve never been to Yosemite – do the research, whether you’re starting here, or anywhere else, and prepare to be fascinated).

What I am going to tell you is the things I know based on personal experience, of having been a park visitor for all these years; and an employee of the Backcountry division of the National Park Service for one season. These facts and tips make up for any lack of specific knowledge that I might have in certain areas. I know Yosemite like the back of my hand. I know it like the back of both hands, actually, because it’s a big place – as big as Rhode Island. I know the trails. I know the plants. I know the animals, and I know the climbing routes. I know these things because I’ve been there, and I keep going back. That alone should tell you something: the person who loves solitude and hates crowds more than anything keeps returning to a place that attracts millions of people. Yes, for me Yosemite is also “Mysemite” (http://www.amazon.com/Mysemite-Sketches-Warren-Cederborg/dp/1425954952), and it can be Yoursemite too, because it is that special.

 Tunnel View, Yosemite 2002

So let’s get started. There’s a lot to cover, and while I’ll be talking about winter activities primarily in Yosemite for the next couple weeks, there will be other posts about Yosemite in the following weeks and months. The best time to visit Yosemite? Any time, the park is stunning at all times. However, be aware of two things: if you go in winter, be prepared for winter conditions – snow, ice, and all that fun. If you go in summer, be prepared for lots of people, and sometimes, winter conditions at higher elevations. As for spring and fall? Be prepared for a mixture of all of the above.

As for the easiest-to-get-to-best-view-in-the-park, the answer can only be one thing: the Tunnel Viewpoint off of Highway 41. (http://www.nps.gov/yose/naturescience/scenic-vistas-tunnel-view.htm, http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/viewpoints.htm). The viewpoint is directly off of Highway 41, and is accessible from both the North and South side of the highway. Should you have entered Yosemite from the South Entrance on Highway 41, the viewpoint will be right in front of you once you exit the Wawona Tunnel. Should you be headed out of Yosemite Valley to the southern portion of the park, the viewpoint will be on your immediate right after you pass the Lower Bridalveil Fall parking area, and before you enter the Wawona Tunnel.

 The view from the spot is simply amazing, and is popular at all times of day year round for good reason. Be prepared for lots of other visitors to be around you, hungry animals begging for food, and a spectacular view, no matter what time of day you arrive. It’s a great spot to stop, look, and sometimes reflect on a quiet winter morning, and a great spot to start your time in the park.

See you on the trail!

More Information here: http://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm, http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/North_America/United_States_of_America/California/Yosemite_National_Park-756823/Things_To_Do-Yosemite_National_Park-Tunnel_View-BR-1.html

Stonewall Peak Photos, Circa 2000

Some oldies but goodies, Stonewall Peak from back in the day pre-2003 fires.

Lower Section Stonewall Peak TrailSurrounding Rancho Cuyamaca SPSummit View, Stonewall Peak