Mist Trail to Nevada Fall, Yosemite National Park (2012)

Vernal Fall, Spring 2012

After I wrote a couple articles about the Mist Trail last year (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html), I received a number of e-mails wondering when the best time was to hike the Mist Trail. In all honesty, I’d say now what I said then – anytime is the best time to hike the Mist Trail to either Vernal or Nevada Fall. However, for 2012, if you are looking to experience “the mist” and want to get wet, now would be the best time to hike the Mist Trail.

The reason right now is the best time to do this hike is simple: the snowpack is already melting. As I’ve said on many occasions this year, 2012 was a bad year for the Sierra snowpack as California has had a warm winter. At this point, from about two weeks ago until mid-summer, what snow was present at the higher elevations will be melting – and at times, melting rapidly. This means that this year, from mid-to late summer, the rivers and seasonal flows will be running at a low level, or not at all. When rivers and other seasonal flows are at a low level, what waterfalls that exist flow at a low level, or not at all.

Mist Trail, Spring 2012

So, if you want to get wet, now, is the time to go for 2012, before all of the snowpack melts. When I was recently in Yosemite, I hiked the Mist Trail up to a tenth of a mile under Nevada Falls. I would have gone all the way up to Nevada Falls and come back down the John Muir Trail, but earlier in the day I had been hiking in another area of the park, and at that point, was perfectly content to take it a little easy.

From what I saw on my hike, the trail is in good to excellent condition, with few dead trees and branches on the trail to Nevada Fall. No snow remains on any section of the trail to Nevada Fall, and from my observations of that area as well as other areas of the park, the snowline is running at ~8500 feet or higher, depending on the sun exposure of the area. As conditions are warm, and only going to get warmer, it’s a great time to get out and do this hike!

Directions: As noted in previous articles, you’re going to either want to take the Yosemite Park Bus to Happy Isles, where the trailhead for the Mist Trail is, or you’re going to want to bike or walk there. Further directions on distances and everything else can be found here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/15/mist-trail-to-nevada-fall.html, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html .

More Tips: Another good reason to hike this trail this time of year is the opportunity to see wildlife – on my recent hike, I saw a number of animals that will likely not be present during the busy summer season. As for traffic on the trail: it was busy, but it will only be getting busier as the season progresses, so get out there to avoid the rush while you can!

Nevada Fall, Spring 2012

Chapel of the Holy Dove, Kendrick Park, Arizona

One of my core beliefs is that there's something mysterious and magical in every aspect of life. Sometimes these mysterious things and places are right in front of us - strange plaques in city parks, for example (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/1/the-white-deer-of-mission-hillsinspiration-point-1.html); and sometimes these places are almost myths in that they are difficult to find, like lost cave art (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/30/the-blue-sun-cave.html); and sometimes, they're just place you stumble upon when your on your way from Point A to Point B.

Chapel of the Holy Dove

The only trick about the last kind of place is that you have to keep your eyes open so that you can see what the world is presenting to you. A good example of the last type of place is the Chapel of the Holy Dove. A couple weeks ago, I was leaving the Grand Canyon on the heels of a late spring snowstorm; and as I drove down the snow covered Highway 180, I saw something on the side of the road that caught my attention. There, in two and a half feet of fresh snow was a small structure with only forest and distant mountain peaks as its neighbors. The sign next to it read, "Chapel of the Holy Dove". 

Snow was swirling over the road and my windshield, but I was curious, even though the warmer option would have been to keep driving. I pulled over as far as I could, hit the hazards on my car, and waded through the powder to the door. It was a small door - the type Bilbo Baggins would have in his burrow. Not expecting it to be open, I tugged on it - and was surprised when it opened partway into a drift of snow. Inside were rows of benches, a solid beamed roof, and an expanse of glass windows looking into the forest. I took a few minutes, and learned all about the Chapel - how it had been built by a Doctor who had worked at the Grand Canyon; how it had burned down in a fire and rebuilt, and how it was open to all. I noticed the prayers, comments, and thoughts that other visitors had placed on the roof and walls in a respectful way.

Chapel of the Holy Dove

Most of all, I felt the feeling of serenity that the Chapel gave me. I'll be honest - I'm not always the most religious person, but the feeling of comfort and peace that the Chapel provided me was close to how I'd like religion to be for the world. After a few minutes I got back into my car, and drove back into the storm; but I'll always remember that spot because I had the vision to see it, despite the storm that was around me. So, my advice for anyone out there is always keep looking, because there's plenty of blank spots left on the map still - you just have to find them for yourself.

Directions: The Chapel is right off the Highway 180, eighteen (18) miles North of Flagstaff.

 Walls of the Chapel of the Holy Dove

More Information:http://www.yelp.com/biz/chapel-of-the-holy-dove-flagstaff,  http://joeorman.shutterace.com/Bizarre/Bizarre_Holydove.html

Observation Point, Zion National Park

Observation Point Trail through Echo Canyon

Last week, I was talking about the signature hike of Zion National Park, Angel’s Landing. As I mentioned last week, Angel’s Landing is not just a signature hike for Zion, but for North America too. However, there’s a downside for being the signature hike of Zion – crowds. If you’re someone who likes to hike to get away from your fellow man, Angel’s Landing probably isn’t for you, unless you’ve managed to find one of those rare weekdays during the off-season where the trail is relatively empty. So, if you like solitude – or if you like even more of a challenge than the distance present in the Angel’s Landing hike, the Observation Point hike is the hike for you.

I’ll never forget the first time I hiked out to Observation Point – I was young, and capable of covering distance in huge chunks. I got an early start on the hike, and by the time I was halfway through Echo Canyon, was feeling confident and cocky. In my head, my inner monologue was already crowing that the hike was not strenuous and not difficult at all. Then, the mid-morning temperature spiked into the low nineties and by the time I was heading up the final ascent of the White Cliffs, my legs were burning, and my inner monologue was strangely silent. While this hike may not be “strenuous” like the National Park Service says, at eight miles roundtrip it is not an easy walk in the park either.

Directions: Zion Canyon is only accessible by foot, bike, or the National Park Service bus service that runs the length of the canyon. Unless you are looking for a real challenge, I suggest that you take the NPS bus to the Weeping Rock Trailhead. From the trailhead, the trail immediately begins to head uphill through a series of switchbacks. At half a mile (.5), you will have ascended several hundred feet, and will have great views of Angel’s Landing and the Virgin River below (although, there are better views to come!). It is at this point the trail forks, and if you have the time, you can head into Hidden Canyon. Unless you get an early start, I’d recommend against the side trip into Hidden Canyon, as you still have 7.5 miles of hiking left to do to get up to Observation Point and back down! Having said that, if you’ve got the time Hidden Canyon is a pretty spot with great slickrock hiking and views.

 Zion Canyon, top of Observation Point

Once you are past the Hidden Canyon trail junction, the trail winds around into Echo Canyon, which aside from the views at the top is probably the best feature of the hike. Echo Canyon is a great spot to stop and linger before you head up the remainder of the switchbacks through the White Cliffs. At one and a half miles (1.5), there will be another junction to the East Rim Trail, which will take you to Cable Mountain and various other points deeper in Zion’s backcountry. Stay on the Observation Point Trail, which is well marked by the National Park Service and continue up the remainder of the switchbacks through the White Cliffs.

Depending on what time of day it is, these switchbacks may seem pretty brutal as you may be slogging uphill under clear blue skies, sun, and hot temperatures, so plan accordingly and bring plenty of water. The good news, however, is that once you reach the top of the White Cliffs, you will find yourself on a somewhat sandy mesa, and the remainder of the hike along the top of the canyon to Observation Point is largely level.

Angel's Landing as view from Observation Point

From Observation Point, you will have a fantastic view of Zion Canyon, and Angel’s Landing and the Virgin River below. Once you have had your fill of the view, follow the trail back down the way you came up for a total distance of eight miles roundtrip, and an elevation gain of 2,148 feet.

Tips: I’d say that the best time for this hike is anytime but July or August when it is hot. However, should you be in Zion during those months, you shouldn’t avoid the hike just because it’s a little warm. If you plan accordingly, you’ll have a great hike through Echo Canyon and great scenic views from the top, along with some much needed solitude.  

More Information: http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/loader.cfm?csModule=security/getfile&PageID=533013, http://www.naturalbornhikers.com/trails/observationpoint.html, http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=2723, http://www.citrusmilo.com/zionguide/obspoint.cfm, http://www.zionnational-park.com/zion-observation-point-trail.htm

Angel's Landing, Zion National Park (2001)

Since I'll be talking about one of my favorite hikes in Utah tomorrow, I thought I'd throw up a few pictures from back in the day - 2001 - of how the hike looked then. Since most of the hike is over ancient and well formed geologic features, you'll be able to take a look and see that while ten years is a long time, it's just a drop in the bucket of history.

Final stretch to the peak, 2001.View from the top of Angel's Landing (2001)View from the top of Angel's Landing (2001)

Cinder Cone Natural Area, Mojave National Preserve

Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area

I don’t know about you, but when I think “Volcano”, I don’t think desert. But, more often than not, there’s evidence of volcanism in the deserts of Southern California. From the Ubehebe Crater in Death Valley to Banshee Canyon in Hole-in-the-Wall , there’s remnants of ancient volcanoes and their eruptions. To me, one of the neat things about these ancient volcanoes is the different types of rocks they leave behind, and the different types of terrain that they have produced. The other great thing about these areas of volcanism is that they provide great opportunities for exploring.

The Cinder Cone Natural Area is one of these volcanic areas that is basically designed for exploring. Stretching for miles and miles, the area is located directly off Kelbaker Road in the Mojave National Preserve. The area has over twenty cinder cones, and large ancient lava flows. It is a place where you can wander around marveling at the various rocks, or, if you wish to off-road a little bit, an area where you can head out to discover lava tubes and discover what lies within them.

Directions: The Cinder Cone Natural area is located sixteen miles South of Baker. From the I-15, exit Kelbaker Road, and follow it for sixteen miles south south-east. At sixteen miles, you will notice a black basalt line to the East, delineating some of the lava flows present in the area. At this point, you can either pull off the road, and hike approximately one to two miles to the base of the lava flows, where you can explore from there, or you can take one of the many dirt pullouts and off-road on one of the trails to the base of the lava flows.

Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area

Do note that the area is full of soft sand, and I would recommend that you have either all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive should you attempt to off-road in this region. When I was there, I drove out on one of the off-road trails toward the base of the lava flow in a non-4WD/AWD vehicle, and quickly realized that I would be better off hiking than becoming potentially stuck and stranded. If you want to explore lava tubes, you’ll want to follow Kelbaker Road nineteen miles south from Baker, until you reach the Aiken Mine Road. Once you turn onto the Aiken Mine Road, it is approximately four miles to the East on an unpaved sandy off-road trail.

Tips: Travel in the Mojave National Preserve is not without risk as there are large expanses without basic services, including water and gasoline. Moreover, while the National Park Service maintains the roads to the best of their ability, they are a bit rougher than you would expect in certain places. As noted above, if you are planning on going off-roading, be sure to have a vehicle that can handle the challenges of the terrain. It is also important to note that there is limited to no cellular service within the Preserve, and in many areas, GPS units do not function well. Plan accordingly, and make sure to have the proper equipment, including maps and plenty of water when you head out to explore.