Penny Pines to Foster's Point

Heading South on the PCT to Foster's Point

Does this always look this beautiful? That was the question that kept rattling around in my head for the majority of my Friday hike. I had been asked that question a half mile into the hike, when I had passed the only other people that were on the trail. They were two backpackers heading to Mt. Laguna, and were only too happy to ask questions to catch their breath. I was happy to answer their question with a simple “yes” before I continued on, breaking trail for them and me to Foster’s Point. The question, however, stuck with me the majority of the day as I postholed through that section of the Pacific Crest Trail (“PCT”), while I thought about what I should have said to them, other than “yes”.

My problem with “Yes” was that it was, and is my stock answer whenever someone asks me if anywhere was that beautiful. It’s my stock answer, because, really, how am I supposed to answer that question? Am I supposed to be snarky, and say, “Nah, it’s extra beautiful today, just for you” or am I supposed to be negative, “No, not usually”. Instead of those two extremes, I always opt for honesty: every place is always that beautiful; it’s just that someone has to be there to see it and appreciate it; and subjectively wonder that human of questions: “is it beautiful”.

My thoughts on the trail from Penny Pines to Foster’s Point from that day, and other days are the following: this hike is on the edge of San Diego County off the S-1, the Sunrise Highway. The trail is literally on the edge of the Laguna Mountains, and from it, you can see what high forest San Diego County has to the West, while gaping at the tectonic drop off down to the Anza Borrego Desert in the East. From the desert floor, warm breezes cascade up and over the mountains, carrying hints of long lost geologic memories. The trail winds through quiet forests, and provides views of jagged peaks, and an observatory. Under the trees, you can smell the sound of the old growth trees of San Diego, making you wonder if you are still in Southern California at all. This is to say nothing of the other features that make this trail unique – of snow in winter, and dust in summer, and everything in between. But is it beautiful? I think so, because I keep coming back. If nothing else, it is unique, and that in itself is reason to do this hike. And that – along with, “except there’s not usually this much snow” is what I should have told the backpackers along with my simple “yes”.

 Penny Pines, where the Trailhead is located for this hike.

Directions: Take the S-1, “Sunrise Highway” to the Penny Pines parking lot located at Mile Marker 27.3 off the road. (http://www.yelp.com/biz/pacific-crest-trail-at-penny-pines-pine-valley) There is parking on both the East and West sides of the road, but you will need a Forest Service “Adventure Pass”, which you can obtain at the Ranger Stations for $5.00.

From Penny Pines, head up the trail .1 miles to the junction of the PCT, and then head South (right) on the PCT. The trail initially drops down, giving you a good view of the desert floor, and Mt. Laguna. Within the first .10 miles after you join the PCT, there will be a hidden, wrecked Packard that is rusting out in the canyon. (Details in my previous post below, and is an interesting nugget to view should you see it). The trail continues due South for 1.6 miles, before heading up the side of Mt. Laguna. I’d rate this ascent as gradual, but as you are at around 5000 feet, you will definitely feel the climb. For this portion of the hike, you’ll be surrounded by clumps of manzanita, but no trees. At two (2) miles out from Penny Pines, you’ll see a wooden signpost directing you to Foster’s Point to your left (East). Follow the sign, and you will find yourself at a great overlook with views of Mt. Laguna, Garnet Peak, San Gorgonio on a clear day, and the Anza-Borrego Desert, of course! This is what it looked like on Friday, December 23, 2011: http://youtu.be/FR6uiAa-ptI

 Foster's Point, December 2011

At this point, you can either continue on to Mt. Laguna, or head back to Penny Pines, and Garnet Peak. To do this loop without any side trips will run you a little under five miles round-trip (4.95 miles, to be exact).

Tips: Bring ample water, as this hike is very dry due to the desert winds that come up the canyons. Other than that, enjoy the hike, and the changing weather around it, as it can be done year round!

See you on the trail!

More Information:

http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/11/22/the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly-gowalla-foursquare-and-trailhe.html, http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/2010/jun/27/laguna-rim-views-take-your-breath-away/, http://www.sandiegoreader.com/news/2010/aug/04/roam-rama-foster-point/

Mist Trail to Nevada Fall

Nevada Fall

One and one half miles of uphill ascent not enough of a workout for you? Looking to see more than one waterfall flowing from the power of the Merced River? Well, you’re in luck. There’s another waterfall directly above Vernal Falls, and it’s just as beautiful – if not more so than the first. How do you get there? Glad you asked.

Directions: Follow the Directions here: (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html) to the first bridge crossing before Vernal Fall. After this point, you have two choices on how exactly, you want to get to Nevada Fall.

The first way is up the Mist Trail, as described in the above link and the previous series of postings. Once you reach the top of Vernal Falls, the trail follows the Merced River back into the trees (roughly East) for half a mile (.50). At this point, the Emerald Pool will be directly to your North (left, if you are coming up from Vernal Falls). The Emerald Pool is a slow area of the Merced River flowing down to Vernal Falls (sometimes not, depending on how fast the current is moving and how high the River is – just the conditions accordingly should you decide to enter).

To your right (South) there will be trail junction that will take you up to the John Muir Trail (JMT) in .40 miles past Clark Point. Continue straight across the Merced, and you will find yourself heading uphill through a series of forested switchbacks at the base of Nevada Fall. After approximately .50 miles, you will be on a series of graded switchbacks on the North side of Nevada Fall and directly under Liberty Cap. For my money, this is a great view of Nevada Fall, and is equally – if not more stunning than the Mist Trail. At the top of the switchbacks, you can either proceed left (North) into Little Yosemite Valley, or to the Right (South) toward the area around the fall (approximately .10 miles). This last portion of the ascent is steep, and I guarantee you will be working up a sweat if you are carrying a multi-day bag. From the Emerald Pools, it is 1.05 miles to the top, and 1.15 miles to the actual fall, leaving you with 1.65 miles of distance one way from Vernal Falls to the top of Nevada Fall.

Nevada Fall

The area around the fall is solid granite, only interrupted by the Merced River, which has eroded a deep furrow in the rock over thousands of years. To cross the Merced, you have to utilize the NPS bridge, but you can walk down the granite slopes to overlook the fall cascading down into the valley you just ascended. Once you are done, you can return the way you came, or you can return back down the JMT as described in the following paragraph in a loop. From the top of the switchbacks, it is .40 miles to the JMT/Pohono Trail Junction, which will lead you back down toward the Valley.

The second way you can reach Nevada Fall is to turn off on the JMT after crossing the first bridge. The junction is approximately .10 miles to the right (South) as you are approaching the Mist Trail. The JMT runs from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney, and it takes backpackers approximately one month or longer to travel the distance as it heads South through the Sierra Nevada Mountain range. The first section of this challenging trail winds up a moderately graded series of forested switchbacks for .32 miles. If you are backpacking out of Yosemite Valley, you may want to consider this route as it is usually cooler and shadier than the busy Mist Trail. Once you have traversed the switchbacks, you will be up above the treeline, and on the edge of a stunning cliff that looks down upon the Merced, and waterfalls below. (In late spring or early winter, this section should be traversed with caution, as ice can build up along the area, and it would not be a good place to slip!) From this point, it is a gradual uphill climb for a mile (1.0) to the JMT/Pohono junction, and Nevada Fall described above. 

Both routes have great views; and it is hard to go wrong by heading either way. Personally, I’d recommend doing the whole route – Mist Trail to Vernal Fall, past the Emerald Pool, up to Nevada Fall, and returning to the valley by the JMT as a loop, but it will take you some time, as you will be gaining 2,900 feet of elevation from the valley floor to the top of Nevada Falls. Also, bear in mind that you will be hiking seven miles roundtrip should you head all the way up to Nevada Falls, plus any additional distance that you may tack on should you not ride the Yosemite Valley bus.

 Top of Nevada Falls, Merced River flowing into Yosemite Valley

Despite the distance, this is a great loop hike from the Valley, and a great way to see a lot of the scenery of the area. Once you pass Vernal Falls, the crowds dissipate somewhat in the summer, although both locations remain very popular.

See you on the trail!

More Information Here:

http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm, http://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/mist-trail/mist-trail.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nevada_Fall

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Summer)

The start of the "Mist Trail" proper

So, you’ve been warned. Not just by me, but by every guide book, blog, friends, and family. You’ve heard the horror stories. You’ve listened to the not-so-dire-warnings. For whatever reason, you really, really want to do the Mist Trail in the summer. I could tell you tales that would curdle your blood, that a majority of park service rescues occur on the Mist Trail in the summertime, or that the majority of deaths that occur in the park occur on this section of the trail (mostly from people falling over the falls), or that hungry bears regularly carry off unsuspecting tourists from the trail and eat them to fatten up for the winter, and you’d still want to do the Mist Trail in the summer. 

And you know what? I’m not going to tell you not to. There’s plenty of reasons why you want to do it in the summer. First, the best time to see the fall is right after the snow melts, when it seems like there is more water in the Merced River than it can possibly accommodate. Second, summertime is vacation time, and any time you’re on vacation, it’s the time to have an adventure, regardless of whole else is there. Third, like it or not, Happy Isles/the Mist Trail/the beginning of the John Muir Trail is the gateway to many backpacking and multi-day adventures. And fourth, why the heck not – it’s there!

Directions: Same as the last two posts. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html)

 Vernal Falls, 2002

Tips: The best tip I can give you is to get an early start. Even then, you won’t beat the crowds. You will, however, beat the hordes. If you are heading up the trail around 10:00 a.m. through 3:00 p.m., expect to be backpack-to-backpack the whole way with other people. The other reason to get a good start: you will avoid being caught out in a late-afternoon thunderstorm.

The next best tip I can give you is to wear solid shoes. Yes, the stairs of the Mist Trail can be traversed in bare feet, thong sandals, Chaco’s, tevas, high heels, and completely destroyed sneakers. But, just because you can do it, doesn’t mean you have to. In the summertime, the trail is completely covered with water, which makes the granite slick, and your footing uncertain. In many spots, should you slip, you will experience a near fatal to fatal fall, even though the terrain is not that daunting. I say: why risk it? Wear something you’ll be comfortable in, and something that you can trust. Furthermore, as the trail is crowded, you will be forced into weird positions as people run past you, or descend in front of you. You’re better off with something that will keep your footing secure, and your feet happy.

Additionally, if you want to be happy, insulate your gear properly whether you’re backpacking or daypacking. The last thing you want is a completely ruined camera or cell phone, or a completely soaked sleeping bag on the first night of your trip. Along with insulating your gear, bring a good coat should you not want to be completely soaked on the ascent and descent. Then again, if it’s a blazing hot day, don’t bring a coat, it’ll feel great to be naturally cooled!

Vernal Falls, 2007 

As my final tip, I will say this: watch out for rodents. Squirrels, chipmunks, and other small woodland creatures know the Mist Trail almost as well as people do. Should you leave your bag unattended at the top of the falls, or at certain other spots on the trail, you will likely find that you have picked up a furry hitchhiker, who will either jump out of your bag, giving you heart palpitations, poo in your bag (nasty), or chew their way out of your bag. Avoid this problem by watching your surroundings, and not feeding the animals.

Things Not To Do: There’s probably plenty, but I’ll stick to the one that is guaranteed to end your life. At the top of Vernal Falls, there is a fence that is at the end of the granite and anywhere between no inches and two feet from the top of the waterfall, depending on the water flow. The fence extends back up the river a fair ways, and then stops. Do not, under any circumstances climb over the fence. Let me make this even more clear: do not climb over this fence if you want to live. This isn’t just me telling you this – there are NPS signs all over the fence warning you. This isn’t just NPS telling you this either, this is your common sense speaking. When you are at the top of the falls, you can see for yourself: this is a several hundred foot drop. The waterfall is right there. The river is flowing rapidly. Should you step over that fence, you know that you will likely be dead. It is not worth the risk in any way. I don’t care how hot it is, how much fun it looks, how daring you are, how lucky you are, how funny it is, it’s just not worth it. I used to warn/lecture people when I worked there, and I still do (in an unofficial capacity now, kind of lame, I know). Don’t take it from me though: there’s plenty of stories this year about people who didn’t make it: (http://www.cnn.com/2011/12/05/us/california-yosemite-body-recovered/index.html?hpt=hp_t3). So, out of all the things you should not do: don’t do that.

 Vernal Falls Single Rainbow

Other than that lecture, have a great time, and see you on the trail!

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Staying Dry)

Vernal Falls, 2009

In my previous post (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html), I might have mentioned that should you elect to head up the last .5 miles on the Mist Trail, you will get wet. I did, however, leave myself a slight out by saying that should you manage to time it right, you can walk aside the falls and still stay dry. Should you head up the trail in late fall, shortly before the first snows of the year, you will likely find it like I did in 2009 when I shot these pictures.

Vernal Falls, 2009 

Note the discrepancy between the water (and snow/ice) levels in these shots from the pictures taken in the previous post – these photos were taken almost exactly a year apart from 2009 to 2010, give or take a couple days. If it’s a late winter, you probably can expect to have conditions like this on the trail into mid-to-late November, but if it’s an early winter, you can expect conditions like the 2010 shots before. It should go without saying, but keep an eye on the conditions prior to your trip, because you never know what you will occur weather wise in the mountains.

In my experience, you can also find the falls at low flow like this at times in winter, when they are iced over, and sometimes in early spring before the snowpack up in the Sierras begins to melt. But, if you want to stay dry without risking ice and or snow, late fall is your best bet, and also a great time to do the hike, as the trees will be changing colors and losing their leaves.

Directions: Same as the post before. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/12/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-winter.html)

See you on the trail! 

The Mist Trail to Vernal Falls (Winter)

Looking towards Illouette, Mist Trail 2010

There is one trailhead, and one trailhead only in Yosemite. At least, that is what you would think if you ever read anything about Yosemite, heard anything about Yosemite, or watched the hordes of people either walking or riding park shuttles to this spot. That spot, and that trailhead is, and can only be one place: Happy Isles. That is the trailhead that takes you to a number of stunning places, but most importantly, it takes you to the two most visited destinations in the park: the Mist Trail , and Half Dome. Astute readers of this blog will stop at this point and think, “Wait a minute. So-and-so said the Mist Trail was the best hike they’d ever been on. How can that be, if he just said that it’s one of the most visited trails in the park? Can that be right?”

To those astute readers, I have sad news. The Mist Trail is the most popular trail in the park, bar none.

On a hot summer day, the trail is always chock full of people just as Los Angeles freeways are always chock full of cars. I guarantee it. Even more damning (to some people), the trail is – wait for it – partially paved. Now, if these two things are deal breakers for you, read no further, but at least look at the pretty pictures I’ve attached, because the scenery is beautiful. For the rest of us, let me tell you this: yes, the Mist Trail is the most popular trail. Yes, you may be surrounded by people, and yes, that can be difficult at times. But the hike is still stunning. It is a chance to walk directly next to, and under Vernal Falls, alongside the Merced River, and to the top of the falls, where great views of Yosemite Valley, Liberty Cap, along with other portions of the park. It is the most popular trail, and hike: but it is that way for a reason. You should not not hike it just because it is popular, as this is one of those situations where the masses are right.

Snowmelt on the Mist Trail, 2010

Directions: Well, you’re going to leave from the Happy Isles trailhead. I believe I mentioned that somewhere, but in case I didn’t, you’re going to take the Happy Isles trailhead. You can either take the free park shuttle to that location (Stop Number 16), or you can potentially find parking at Curry Village, and walk from there (if you walk from Curry Village, add an extra .75 miles distance each way, for a roundtrip distance bonus of 1.5 miles). From the trailhead, follow the paved portion uphill (believe me, you will not get lost, as you will be around many people, and there are no turnouts) for .75 miles to the bridge crossing the Merced River. From the bridge, you can see Vernal Fall, and if you’re feeling it, this is a great place to stop and watch the Merced and the waterfall.

For the hiking purists, from this point, the trail is not paved. Once you are across the bridge, you will continue to follow the trail up, and you will pass the John Muir Trail (“JMT”) junction on your right (.2 miles from the bridge). Do not take the JMT unless you are going to Nevada Falls, or other destinations that are further away, such as Mt. Whitney. Once you pass the JMT junction, you will come upon a gate for the Mist Trail that is closed in winter. This is the actual portion of the Mist trail, and from this point, you will get wet.

Heading up the Mist Trail in 2010The last section of the trail traverses alongside the Merced River, and is right next to and under Vernal Falls. This section of trail is constantly deluged/soaked/drenched with water from the falls. Unless it is a drought year, or a part of the year where the falls are not raging, you, your gear, and everything on you, will get wet. Watch your step as you head up the 600 or so steps up the remaining .5 miles to the top of the waterfall. Once you are at the top, you will have a great view of the Merced from the edge of the waterfall. From there, you can either proceed up to Nevada Falls, and Little Yosemite Valley, or you can return back to Happy Isles the way you came.

My Tip: As this is the most popular hike in the park, and is beyond well known, I’d suggest that you do this hike during the off-season if you can. If you are in the park in late spring, fall, or early winter, you will find the trail mostly empty. Moreover, at these times, you will find that you enjoy this hike more than being stuck with hordes of people on the trail in the summer. In 2010, I hiked up the Mist Trail in late November, a week after a fresh snowfall, and had an amazing experience. As you can see from the absence of people in these photos, in those conditions, it did not look like the most popular trail in the park, but it did look like a winter wonderland.

Disclaimer: The National Park Service closes the last .5 miles of the Mist Trail in the dead of winter as it is a treacherous ascent with ice and snow. I would not recommend you proceed in these conditions as there is little to no room for error. However, if you feel like you are up to the task, bring the proper gear, know that you are on your own, and watch this video here: http://youtu.be/ybrDF3wCdMU

Vernal Fall, Winter 2010

Other Facts:  The hike is 3 miles roundtrip, plus or minus any distance you add from hiking from Curry Village or other destinations. You will gain 1,000 feet of elevation from the valley floor to the top of the falls, and you will likely have an excellent time! (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/valleyhikes.htm)

See you on the trail!

 Hiking Superhighway? Not in winter!

More Information: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/yosemite-valley/mist-trail/mist-trail.htm,  http://timberlinetrails.net/YosemiteMistTrail.html, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Happy-Isles-topo-map.jpg, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mist_Trail

Sentinel Dome Pictures, Yosemite National Park

The infamous fallen Jeffrey Pine, circa 2007More photos of the infamous fallen Jeffrey Pine...Free standing glacial boulders atop Sentinel DomeThe highest point in Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, viewed from the second highest, Sentinel Dome