Did you know that over five million people visit the Grand Canyon on a yearly basis, and most of those people visit the South Rim? If you’re even remotely interested in hiking and wilderness activities, you probably did, as the Grand Canyon is one of the top National Parks every year. But – did you know that only 3% of Grand Canyon park visitors (approximately 150,000 people) head below the rim of the Grand Canyon? I’m guessing that you didn’t, because I didn’t know it, and I know a lot of arcane wilderness lore. Let me give you some disclosure though: I don’t know where Bill Ferris got that statistic – I Googled it for a little bit, and I didn’t come up with anything.
Observation Point, Zion National Park
Last week, I was talking about the signature hike of Zion National Park, Angel’s Landing. As I mentioned last week, Angel’s Landing is not just a signature hike for Zion, but for North America too. However, there’s a downside for being the signature hike of Zion – crowds. If you’re someone who likes to hike to get away from your fellow man, Angel’s Landing probably isn’t for you, unless you’ve managed to find one of those rare weekdays during the off-season where the trail is relatively empty. So, if you like solitude – or if you like even more of a challenge than the distance present in the Angel’s Landing hike, the Observation Point hike is the hike for you.
I’ll never forget the first time I hiked out to Observation Point – I was young, and capable of covering distance in huge chunks. I got an early start on the hike, and by the time I was halfway through Echo Canyon, was feeling confident and cocky. In my head, my inner monologue was already crowing that the hike was not strenuous and not difficult at all. Then, the mid-morning temperature spiked into the low nineties and by the time I was heading up the final ascent of the White Cliffs, my legs were burning, and my inner monologue was strangely silent. While this hike may not be “strenuous” like the National Park Service says, at eight miles roundtrip it is not an easy walk in the park either.
Directions: Zion Canyon is only accessible by foot, bike, or the National Park Service bus service that runs the length of the canyon. Unless you are looking for a real challenge, I suggest that you take the NPS bus to the Weeping Rock Trailhead. From the trailhead, the trail immediately begins to head uphill through a series of switchbacks. At half a mile (.5), you will have ascended several hundred feet, and will have great views of Angel’s Landing and the Virgin River below (although, there are better views to come!). It is at this point the trail forks, and if you have the time, you can head into Hidden Canyon. Unless you get an early start, I’d recommend against the side trip into Hidden Canyon, as you still have 7.5 miles of hiking left to do to get up to Observation Point and back down! Having said that, if you’ve got the time Hidden Canyon is a pretty spot with great slickrock hiking and views.
Once you are past the Hidden Canyon trail junction, the trail winds around into Echo Canyon, which aside from the views at the top is probably the best feature of the hike. Echo Canyon is a great spot to stop and linger before you head up the remainder of the switchbacks through the White Cliffs. At one and a half miles (1.5), there will be another junction to the East Rim Trail, which will take you to Cable Mountain and various other points deeper in Zion’s backcountry. Stay on the Observation Point Trail, which is well marked by the National Park Service and continue up the remainder of the switchbacks through the White Cliffs.
Depending on what time of day it is, these switchbacks may seem pretty brutal as you may be slogging uphill under clear blue skies, sun, and hot temperatures, so plan accordingly and bring plenty of water. The good news, however, is that once you reach the top of the White Cliffs, you will find yourself on a somewhat sandy mesa, and the remainder of the hike along the top of the canyon to Observation Point is largely level.
From Observation Point, you will have a fantastic view of Zion Canyon, and Angel’s Landing and the Virgin River below. Once you have had your fill of the view, follow the trail back down the way you came up for a total distance of eight miles roundtrip, and an elevation gain of 2,148 feet.
Tips: I’d say that the best time for this hike is anytime but July or August when it is hot. However, should you be in Zion during those months, you shouldn’t avoid the hike just because it’s a little warm. If you plan accordingly, you’ll have a great hike through Echo Canyon and great scenic views from the top, along with some much needed solitude.
More Information: http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/loader.cfm?csModule=security/getfile&PageID=533013, http://www.naturalbornhikers.com/trails/observationpoint.html, http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=2723, http://www.citrusmilo.com/zionguide/obspoint.cfm, http://www.zionnational-park.com/zion-observation-point-trail.htm
Angel's Landing, Zion National Park
As I’ve mentioned before, every National Park has its own signature hike or moment. For Yosemite, it’s the Mist Trail (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/12/14/the-mist-trail-to-vernal-falls-summer.html); for Death Valley, it’s Golden Canyon (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/3/6/golden-canyon-to-red-cathedral-death-valley-national-park.html); for Mojave National Preserve, it’s the Ring Loop Trail (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/10/ring-loop-trail-mojave-national-preserve.html); for the Grand Canyon, it’s the South Kaibab or Bright Angel Trails (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2007/6/15/bright-angel-trailsouth-kaibab-trails-grand-canyon-national.html?SSScrollPosition=0); and for Zion National Park, the signature hike is Angel’s Landing. If that didn’t get your attention, this will: in my opinion, Angel’s Landing is not just a signature hike just for Zion, but a signature hike for all of Utah; and is definitely one of the top hikes in the United States.
Angel's Landing, Zion National Park (2001)
Since I'll be talking about one of my favorite hikes in Utah tomorrow, I thought I'd throw up a few pictures from back in the day - 2001 - of how the hike looked then. Since most of the hike is over ancient and well formed geologic features, you'll be able to take a look and see that while ten years is a long time, it's just a drop in the bucket of history.
Cinder Cone Natural Area, Mojave National Preserve
Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area
I don’t know about you, but when I think “Volcano”, I don’t think desert. But, more often than not, there’s evidence of volcanism in the deserts of Southern California. From the Ubehebe Crater in Death Valley to Banshee Canyon in Hole-in-the-Wall , there’s remnants of ancient volcanoes and their eruptions. To me, one of the neat things about these ancient volcanoes is the different types of rocks they leave behind, and the different types of terrain that they have produced. The other great thing about these areas of volcanism is that they provide great opportunities for exploring.
The Cinder Cone Natural Area is one of these volcanic areas that is basically designed for exploring. Stretching for miles and miles, the area is located directly off Kelbaker Road in the Mojave National Preserve. The area has over twenty cinder cones, and large ancient lava flows. It is a place where you can wander around marveling at the various rocks, or, if you wish to off-road a little bit, an area where you can head out to discover lava tubes and discover what lies within them.
Directions: The Cinder Cone Natural area is located sixteen miles South of Baker. From the I-15, exit Kelbaker Road, and follow it for sixteen miles south south-east. At sixteen miles, you will notice a black basalt line to the East, delineating some of the lava flows present in the area. At this point, you can either pull off the road, and hike approximately one to two miles to the base of the lava flows, where you can explore from there, or you can take one of the many dirt pullouts and off-road on one of the trails to the base of the lava flows.
Rock formations in the Cinder Cone Natural Area
Do note that the area is full of soft sand, and I would recommend that you have either all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive should you attempt to off-road in this region. When I was there, I drove out on one of the off-road trails toward the base of the lava flow in a non-4WD/AWD vehicle, and quickly realized that I would be better off hiking than becoming potentially stuck and stranded. If you want to explore lava tubes, you’ll want to follow Kelbaker Road nineteen miles south from Baker, until you reach the Aiken Mine Road. Once you turn onto the Aiken Mine Road, it is approximately four miles to the East on an unpaved sandy off-road trail.
Tips: Travel in the Mojave National Preserve is not without risk as there are large expanses without basic services, including water and gasoline. Moreover, while the National Park Service maintains the roads to the best of their ability, they are a bit rougher than you would expect in certain places. As noted above, if you are planning on going off-roading, be sure to have a vehicle that can handle the challenges of the terrain. It is also important to note that there is limited to no cellular service within the Preserve, and in many areas, GPS units do not function well. Plan accordingly, and make sure to have the proper equipment, including maps and plenty of water when you head out to explore.
Dantes BM/Dantes Peak
When is a mountain not a mountain? When the mountaineering community says so, of course! Dantes Peak or “Dante’s BM” as it is known in the climbing community will never confuse anyone with Mt. Everest. For starters, at over 29,000 feet, Mt. Everest is the prime diamond jewel in the climber’s crown. At 5,704 feet, Dantes Peak is more like a climber’s emerald toe ring. There’s also the unfortunate fact that Dantes Peak is over four times smaller than Everest, and over two times smaller than Mt. Whitney. Heck, even its neighbor – Telescope Peak – is almost twice as big as it at 11,049 feet. But you know what? Not everyone gets to climb Mt. Everest, and not every mountain has to be Mt. Everest. Sometimes, things should just be enjoyed for what they are. And, for what it is, Dantes Peak is a great beginner’s hike with great views of Death Valley from the Black Mountains.
The Salt/Saline Pools of the Devil’s Golf Course
The Devil's Golf Course is an area of Death Valley that is close to Badwater. While it is not quite as far below sea level as Badwater, this is an area that is also below sea level. But like Badwater, it shares a common geologic past. Over twenty thousand years ago, the valley floor of Death Valley was not barren and desolate - but instead was covered with water - a large body of water known to geologists and historians as Lake Manly. Lake Manly was full of minerals from the surrounding terrain; and over the course of time, as it evaporated, it left those minerals - and sedimentary rocks behind. Today, what remains are salt crystals from the bottom of the lake - and borax crystal formations. These crystals have grown into an extensive – and hard network of structures. As you can see from the pictures above, the crystal formations have covered the area in a network of sharp formations that are between one to two feet high and are close together. As the area is difficult to traverse on foot, one can only imagine the difficulty one would have attempting to play any sort of golf game (hence the name). While the crystals are spectacular, where myth and fact meet are with the secret pools of water that remain interspersed among the formations.