Canyon View Loop Trail, Whitewater Preserve

Whitewater River, looking up Whitewater Canyon

This week on lastadventurer.com, true confessions. Confession number one: I have been going back and forth from Southern California to the Coachella Valley region and areas North of it for over twenty years off and on. Until about a month ago, I had no idea that there was an area of pristine flood plain, containing miles of hiking trails, and great views of the San Gorgonio Wilderness in the area. No. Idea. At. All. I feel at this point that there should almost be some sort of demerits taken against my wilderness specialist card. After all, the area I’m talking about is part of the Pacific Crest Trail (“PCT”) – how could I miss this? However, it’s better to arrive at the party late than not arrive at all.

Yes, what I am talking about is the Whitewater Preserve, an area of over 2,826 acres that is owned by the Wildlands Conservancy. The region is situated directly on the floodplain of the Whitewater River, and is surrounded by large swaths of land owned by the Bureau of Land Management and the San Gorgonio Wilderness, providing one large area to explore, and one colossal wildlife corridor. The Wildlands Conservancy holds a number of pieces of land within California, and in my experience, each of them are well managed, well maintained, and well protected, something that is definitely needed with the Department of Parks and Recreation in California facing continuing budget cuts. Due to time constraints, I didn’t get as far out into the backcountry as I would have wished, but I did get out on the Canyon View Loop trail, which leaves directly from the picnic area/Ranger Station/interpretive center, and in my opinion, provides a great scenic overview of the preserve for the first time visitor.

Looking at the Ridgeline of Whitewater Canyon

 Directions: To enter the Whitewater Preserve, exit the I-10 at the Whitewater exit, and head North up the Whitewater Canyon Road for five miles until the road ends. There is a parking lot at the end of the road, but do note that the area is popular for picnics as well as hiking, and the lot does fill up. From the parking lot, the trailhead is directly to the North, and is the main jumping off point for all of the hikes into the backcountry. The trail is well marked from the beginning, and leads past a large boulder with mileage distances along the PCT as well as the preserve. After about a half mile (.5), you will see a turnoff to the West, which will lead you over the Whitewater River on a well maintained footbridge.

As 2012 has been a dry year for Southern California, the water was well below the bridge; but I suspect that in a wet year, the river could be difficult to cross; something you should keep in mind depending on when you are visiting. Once across the bridge, the trail heads through some brush before heading uphill through some switchbacks to the top of the ridge, where the Canyon Loop Trail is again well signed. From here, you can see some great views of the canyon as you head South before ultimately looping back around to the Ranger station and parking lot. Roundtrip, this hike will be about three and a half miles (3.5), and I would rate it as easy and suitable for all ages. Do note that there is indeed some uphill portions; but overall, the hike is not overly strenuous.

 Whitewater Canyon

Tips: There’s a secret river and park near Palm Springs! What more do you want? Ok, let’s go for bonus tips: due to the fact that the preserve is connected to large swaths of backcountry, it is a wildlife corridor for many animals, including black bears which do head into the canyon on a regular basis. From my observations, it’s also a great place to view animals, as I saw plenty of small animals in the area during the middle of the day. Last, if you don’t feel like hiking, it’s a great place to sit back and relax among the trout ponds and river to beat the desert heat.

See you on the trail!

More Information:

http://www.wildlandsconservancy.org/maps/Whitewater%20Canyon%20Preserve%20Map.pdf, http://www.wildlandsconservancy.org/maps/wwtm21610.pdf, http://www.wildlandsconservancy.org/preserve_whitewater.html, http://www.yelp.com/biz/whitewater-preserve-white-water, http://calitravelgirl.wordpress.com/2011/04/21/whitewater-preserves-canyon-view-loop-trail-has-views-to-die-for/#comments

Bump-N-Grind Trail, Palm Desert (aka Bump-AND-Grind)

View of San Jacinto from the "top" of the Bump-N-Grind Trail

Sometimes, when you’re on the road, you find locations that are great hikes, but since you’re not a local, you may end up calling the location by a new name that has no relation to the old or actual name. Case in point: for years, I’ve been visiting Palm Desert. About ten years ago, I got tired of running around the same flat streets, and while running by the Target in Palm Desert, I saw people climbing a hill. I figured, “Hey, that looks like some good variety, not too tough, I’ll hit that up tomorrow”. Needless to say, when I “hit it up” the next day, I found that it was a lot more strenuous than, “not too tough” (more on that later), but I still had a great time. I found it so enjoyable that every time I was in Palm Desert after that, I went up and around it. All this time, I thought it was called the “Painter’s Path” trail, because I thought I had seen a sign near Highway 111 at the start that said that.

When I went to do a little research to write this piece about the hike, I found that it is called “The Bump-n-Grind” trail, “Dog Poo Trail”, “Patton Trail”, or “Desert Drive Trail”, but more often than not, “The Bump-n-Grind”. At first I was in denial - surely, I had a picture of the trailhead sign that proved I was right. Nope. No pictures of that purported sign. Then, I thought that it was an isolated nickname – surely, there was another name for it that confirmed I was right. Nope. Bump-n-Grind seemed to be chapter approved by locals. At this point, while bemused – I had been telling people about this hike for years – “you go up over behind the Target”, and calling it by my name, it was clear that I was wrong. Then again, a hike by any name is surely better than no hike at all?

Directions: Park in the Target parking lot right off Highway 111 in Palm Desert (http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/store_details.jsp?&storeNumber=940&referringURL=%2Fsite%2Fen%2Fspot%2Fstate_results.jsp%3Fstate%3DCA). The trail leaves off the back of the parking lot and is readily apparent; there is also an access point slightly North of the Target entrance up Highway 111 past the Tilted Kilt. Either way, be prepared for a short but very steep ascent that heads up for about  ~1000 vertical feet before dead-ending at a spot in the mid-foothills that overlooks the Coachella Valley, and all of Palm Desert below. From the dead-end spot, there are other foot trails that head up further into the foothills, but they are not “approved” trails or routes. From the dead-end, the hike heads back down the hill to the parking lot. Total distance: a little over two miles roundtrip.

Tips: Did I mention above that I thought it’d be not too tough, but was surprised? Yeah, that’s right. It’s steeeeeeeeeeeep. Think about it: you start at around ~200 feet and you go up to ~1250 feet in a little over a mile. That’s steep. But fun! If you’re going to run it, it’s a leg burner. If you’re going to walk it, it’s still a burner. Is it doable? For sure, there will likely be tons of people on it. Enjoy it, and the view. Do bring water – it’s the desert. Don’t head up midday in the dead heat of summer, unless you can really handle that 110 degree heat and physical exertion. Do call it what you will, but do know that it is officially the “Bump-N-Grind”.

See you on the trail! 

More Information: http://www.hiking-in-ps.com/bumpngrind.php, http://www.yelp.com/biz/bump-and-grind-trail-mike-schuler-trail-head-palm-desert

La Orilla Trail, San Elijo Lagoon Ecological Reserve

Start of the La Orilla Trail, San Elijo Reserve

Enclaves! San Diego is full of wilderness enclaves. You just need to know where to look. A couple months ago, I talked about Crest Canyon, and how it’s a great secret spot to hike or run. A couple miles up the road, there’s another great spot for a calming walk or trail run next to the San Elijo Lagoon. This lagoon is the keystone of the San Elijo Lagoon Reserve, which features over seven miles of hiking trails, and is slightly North of Solana Beach, and slightly South of Cardiff.

Directions: From Interstate 5, exit Lomas Santa Fe, and head East to Highland Road (this road will be marked by a 4-Way Stop Sign). On Highland, turn left. Follow Highland East/North-east for a short while; and then turn left (North) onto El Camino Real. The parking lot for the trailhead will be on the West side of the road slightly before a hairpin turn. (The Reserve provides a good set of directions on their webpage, which I’ve placed below). From the parking area, it is several feet to the start of the trail. To me, the first portion of the trail is like entering a mystical forest with its low hanging cottonwood branches. Shortly up the trail (less than .10 miles), you will find a hollowed out area with tree branches covering it; it looks like a home to an unknown animal – or a gateway to another land.

After that, you will be entering the riparian area of the trail, where you will see cattails, and if it’s been a wet year – or if it’s recently rained, like it had the other day when I hiked this trail, you’ll see standing water in La Orilla Creek. If it’s dry – or hasn’t rained, the only water you’re likely to see is the Lagoon itself.

Riparian Portions of the La Orilla Trail The trail then meanders up some very slight hills, and then at .45 miles, arrives at the easement for the power lines above. At this point, you’ll have a variety of options – you can turn off onto some of the San Elijo Lagoon trails leading back into Solana Beach or you can continue West. Should you continue west, you’ll pass some free standing trees, some of which are Torrey Pines, and ultimately head along the Lagoon itself, under the Interstate 5, and toward the Coast. If you follow the trail to its end, you will arrive at the train tracks next to the Coast Highway just North of Solana Beach, which is directly across from Cardiff State Beach. The total distance from the trailhead to the Coast is 3.5 miles, one way, and is by and large, very flat. If you don’t decide to relax on the beach for a bit, the total round trip distance of this hike (or run) is seven miles. This trail is easy, and is for hikers of all skill levels.

Tips: At times, you will see people riding horses in and around the La Orilla trail near the El Camino Trailhead. If you are running the trail, be aware – and respectful of riders, so as not to dart around a corner, which will likely startle the horse(s). The section of trail that traverses under the Interstate 5 also has a narrow section of bridge; and if you are not paying attention, or you slip when running over it, you will end up in the Lagoon, and you will get wet. One last cautionary note about getting wet: when it rains, the trail becomes muddy in some places; and slippery in other places due to the high sand/clay content of the soil, and should you slip – you will get muddy and wet. Other than that, even though the area is fairly urban, this is a good spot to see deer, and sometimes, coyotes!

See you on the trail!

Partington Cove Trail, Big Sur

Looking down the Partington Cove Trail

Big Sur. It’s one of those mythic places of California that everyone knows nothing and everything about. It’s a place of hidden beaches; stunning views where the land drops off into the ocean; and hairpin turns on the Cabrillo Highway (California Route 1). It’s a place of sun and fog and sudden winds; of wild animals, expected and unexpected; authors; and large mansions from a different era. The thing about Big Sur that no one ever talks about is the potential for traffic, and traffic jams. It almost seems incomprehensible that this remote and pristine area would have the same problems as say, downtown Los Angeles until you think about it rationally.

Bridge over Partington Creek

Most of the route through Big Sur, California Route 1 is full of hairpin curves, broken only by occasional bridges, lonely straightaways, steep coastal drop-offs, and is almost always a two-lane road. And, if you add in the key variable: beautiful ocean-front scenery, what you are left with is an equation that looks like this: two-lane road + beautiful scenery + tourists staring at said scenery = traffic jams and general slowing. (This is to say nothing of areas where road construction is currently ongoing as of 2012, where the two lane road becomes a one-lane road). Frankly, there’s actually nothing wrong with this situation – California Route 1 should be driven slowly to absorb the scenery; it’s just that one has to be prepared to view the country slowly. And, part and parcel of viewing the area slowly is knowing where to stop and explore. In this respect, the Partington Cove Trail is one of the best and easiest places to explore.

 Directions: While the trail isn’t marked, you’re going to want to look for a metal gate on the West side of Highway 1 – chances are there will be a fair amount of cars on either side of the road pulled out to hike the trail. The gate is roughly two (2) miles North of the entrance to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park; or roughly five (5) miles South of the Nepanthe Restaurant/Store complex. If you park on the East side, take care crossing the Highway 1, as there are frequent distracted drivers not looking for pedestrians.

From the metal gate, the trail is wide and flat down to the coast. Once you are down the hill, you will be by an interpretive kiosk, where the trail will fork off into three separate directions. The first will take you down towards a small cove where the trail dead-ends. The second will take you over a wooden bridge, through a forested grove, and through the tunnel to the remains of the pier at Partington Cove. The third will take you upstream along the Partington Creek. I’d recommend that one heads down to the smaller cove, before heading back to the trail junction and walking through the tunnel down to Partington Cove. At the cove, there’s a bench where you can watch the waves; and plenty of rocks to scramble around on depending on how high the tide is. (http://youtu.be/h9vayVct56U) If you’re looking around, you can also find the old eyebolts and moorings from the pier that used to exist here. Once you’re done exploring the area, return the way you came. While the hill isn’t that steep, this is where you will get somewhat of a workout. Roundtrip, you are looking at a little bit over one (1) mile.

 Partington Cove region

Tips: The tunnel through the rock to the old pier was initially used to carry out tanbark by mules; and was possibly used by bootleggers during prohibition. The tunnel is what really makes this an interesting hike in my book, as it allows one to imagine all sorts of interesting scenarios that occurred in this region. If you’ve got something to eat; the bench at the end of the trail at the cove is a great place to relax and watch the world go by. Lastly, while the trail isn’t technical in any way, nor that difficult, it can be a little slick at places, as your author found out. I had a very embarrassing moment when I slipped and ate it mid-way down – so much for those mountaineering skills right? But, with a little more attention and humility, I am sure you will be fine!

See you on the trail!

The infamous Partington Cove Tunnel - watch for smugglers!

More Information: http://www.blogmonterey.com/2011/06/09/partington-cove-day-hikes/, http://www.hikinginbigsur.com/hikes_partingtoncove.html, http://www.flickr.com/photos/senders/4867473789/, http://www.yelp.com/biz/partington-cove-big-sur,http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/road-trips/california-pacific-coast-road-trip/ 

Long Valley to Folly Peak to Mt. San Jacinto (2011)

Round Valley, April 2011 (less snow here than May 2010!)

Although the backcountry skiing on San Jacinto is superb, what I like most about the peak is climbing it in winter. In fact, I’d go so far as to say that I prefer climbing the peak in the winter months over the summer months. While I have nothing against the summer route – and standard route that you loosely follow in the winter – I’d say the winter approach is a lot more fun. For starters, in the winter, you will likely have to find your own route after a certain point depending on the snow; there are less people; and in my opinion, the mountain is more scenic with a coating of ice and snow than it is in the summertime. There’s also no risk of dealing with extremely hot temperatures, dust; and if the conditions are right, you can glissade down the face of the mountain, which is a great rush, and an enormous time saver. I always make a point to head up to the summit of San Jacinto once a year (just to make sure it’s still there); and for the past two years, I’ve had great bluebird days on the peak in winter. As I’ve discussed the last two days, the snow this year is not what it has been, but I am sure I will head up to the summit at some point in the near future. From what I hear, you will still need crampons/microspikes at this point, even though the snow conditions are not optimal.

Folly Peak to San Jacinto summit traverse (2011).

Directions: The easiest – and most accessible route is the same route that you would take in the summertime. The route starts from the Palm Springs Aerial Tram station in Long Valley. From the tram station, head into Long Valley, where you will pass the Ranger Station within a quarter mile. Remember, you will need a permit to head any further – but, don’t despair – permits are free! From the Ranger station, you will head up the trail (if it is visible) to Round Valley. At this point, where you head is a matter of where you want to go, and how your orienteering skills are. In 2010, I kept my group fairly close to the route of the actual trail (even though it was several feet below us in the snow); and in 2011 I elected to take my climbing partner and I up the face of Folly Peak after we branched off at Wellman’s Divide.

Alternatively, one could head straight for the summit prior to or at Round Valley; but in my opinion, the Folly Peak to San Jacinto traverse in winter is the way to go. Folly Peak is directly to the West of the San Jacinto summit; and clocks in at 10,480 feet. Last year, we traversed up to its summit in some fairly soft powder that was warming in the mid-afternoon sun. Once we were at the summit of Folly, we followed the more packed snow on the ridgeline over to the actual summit of San Jacinto, which was a little less than a mile. To get back to the tram, you can either walk back the way you came, or, if the conditions are right, like they were last year, you can glissade back down into Round Valley. This is exactly what my climbing partner and I did; we traversed back down to the rescue hut, and after checking it out – and the log, found a great spot to glissade down. I’d estimate that this way eliminated about two to three miles from our return trip; and was great fun, but there has to be enough snow to take this route (which at this point in 2012, it appears there is not). Distance wise, you can make this winter summit bid last around twelve miles if you really want, but realistically, if you know how to use a map and compass, or GPS, you’re looking at much less distance.

Summit, San Jacinto, 2011

 San Jacinto summit, looking North to San Gorgonio

Tips: As noted in the last post, you’ll want the proper gear for this, in case the tram stops running; and because you are winter mountaineering. The summit does get hit pretty hard by strong winds, and the temperature can drop very fast. If you are going to attempt this in wintertime, I’d recommend one heads out mid-winter, rather than late winter. The difference? Firm footing that will involve less postholing than melting snow offers. If you are going to attempt this, do be familiar with your map/compass/GPS so as not to get lost. And finally, do note that John Muir did indeed say, “The view from San Jacinto is the most sublime spectacle to be found anywhere on this earth!” While I hate to disagree with Muir overall, what I will say is that if you do climb the peak in winter, you will definitely have a more sublime experience than the summer!

See you on the trail!

And...a view from the summit, here: http://youtu.be/uAwr5sMeW5A

More Information: http://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/636/files/MtSanJacintoSPmap.pdf, http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=1480, http://angeles.sierraclub.org/hps/guides/27F.htm, http://www.summitpost.org/folly-peak/300638, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Jacinto_Peak, http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/6/6/san-jacinto-tram-to-summit-may-31-2010.html

Backcountry Skiing San Jacinto

Heading for the San Jacinto summit, Winter 2011

One of my annual traditions is to head out to San Jacinto in the wintertime to partake in some of the best backcountry skiing in Southern California. However, if I’m being honest, it looks like this tradition is going to take a one-year hiatus based on the conditions I saw on Sunday, January 23, 2012, as there is not enough snow to get in any runs, unless I’m willing to ride over rocks and more rocks. Perhaps the conditions will change in the next six weeks, but at this point, as I noted yesterday, it looks like a drought year for us, which means no backcountry skiing on San Jacinto. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/23/current-snow-conditions-on-mt-san-jacinto-january-2012.html)

 Plenty of fresh powder to go around! (2011)

Forget the snowpack though for now: let me tell you why I think San Jacinto is the best backcountry skiing in Southern California. First, it’s easily accessible – it’s a quick twelve minute ride up the Palm Spring Aerial Tramway to Long Valley, and in a good snow year like 2010 or 2011, you can instantly head out once you leave the tram station. Even in poor years, or late in the season, it’s a short hike/walk up towards Round Valley at around 9000 feet, where you will encounter snow that can be traversed and then skied. Second, there’s lots of variety. You can ski around either Long Valley, Round Valley, or many other portions of the park on relatively flat terrain; and there is plenty of downhill terrain either on the face of the peak proper, or in various chutes and small hills. In this respect, the terrain can be great for beginners – or for experts looking to get in some serious backcountry runs.

In my experience, should there be enough snow, and should you be willing to invest some effort into traversing with skins or on ski, or hiking on foot, you can get a good run of approximately 1500 vertical feet in – not too shabby! Third, unlike Baldy, and the terrain around it, it’s not too busy. Sure, you’ll pass people in Long Valley, but once you get out in the open, you’re going to find fresh powder – I guarantee it. In this respect, I’d say San Jacinto is one of the more unknown areas to ski in, even though it’s readily apparent to everyone.

Getting ready for the ~1500 or so foot vertical run. (2011) Tips: I always try and head up the day after a storm, because there will be fresh powder everywhere. Even if I can’t make it after a storm, I arrive at the tram station early to catch the first tram up at 8:00 am as the tram cars fill up as the day progresses, and it’s a hassle dealing with a full tram and all of your gear. Do also note that a permit is required for traveling past Long Valley, but such permits are free, and are found at the Long Valley Ranger Station. I always have the proper gear for this trip – map, compass, GPS, and spare clothes, among other things, just in case the tram stops running, or something else comes up. I generally also carry/wear my Avalung, but I’ve never had to use it there. I also make sure to have lots of high caloric foods and to have lots of energy, because there are no lifts after the tram, and you will be expending a lot of energy on whichever runs you do go on. Lastly, do note that the weather can change on San Jacinto fairly quickly, and the summit region does get hit pretty hard at times by high winds, which can lead to some fairly iced out conditions, so exercise the proper care.

With those things in mind, the next time there’s a mammoth dump of snow in Southern California, and you want to experience acres of wide open backcountry, check out San Jacinto – but just realize that it might be 2013 before this happens! 

More Information: http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=636, http://www.mtsanjacinto.info/index.php, http://www.pstramway.com/, http://inthewildernesswithtodd.blogspot.com/2011/03/san-jacinto-backcountry-skiing-2-27-11.html, http://san-diego-ski-club.org/backcountry.htm

Current Snow Conditions on Mt. San Jacinto, January 2012

San Jacinto, 01/22/12 - not much snow!

Yesterday was basically a 1980's adventure revival day as I stopped at the Cabazon Dinosaurs (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/1/23/cabazon-dinosaurs.html) and headed up the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway for a little hiking. There's nothing really retro - or eighties about the tram these days, as it's a slick, modern rotating machine, but when I got to Long Valley, I had a very retrofabulistic moment (yes, I know retrofabulistic isn't a real word, but it sounds good, right?) when I looked around, and there was almost no snow. At that moment, my exact thoughts were: "Where's the snow?!?!?" As you can see from the photos, there was little to no snow at around the ~8500 foot mark that Long Valley sits at. As I walked along the valley, both East and West, I'd say the snow depths were running at ~1-3 inches, variable, mostly melted off, and what base layer remained was almost completely iced out. Keep in mind that these conditions were after the "winter" storm we received in the Southern California region, which obviously left no accumumulations at this elevation. From Long Valley up to Round Valley, there was spotty accumulation, mostly under deep tree cover and around the rocks of ~2-4 inches, variable; with an occasional "drift" of a foot or more (again, completely iced out). More often than not, even up to around ~9500 feet, there were bare spots of dirt, and no snow coverage whatsoever. 

San Jacinto, 01/22/12 - where's the snow?!

This is in start contrast to last year, 2011, when I was on the summit in April, and there was still a substantial amount of snow from Long Valley on (several feet), and from 2010 when I headed up the to the summit on Memorial Day in several feet of snow from Long Valley. While a storm is passing through today, the ten day shows nothing but sun. At this point, it looks like we will be experiencing a drought year, which, while good for peakbaggers, is bad for fire conditions. If you are planning on heading for the summit at this point, I'd strongly recommend microspikes/crampons due to the prevalance of ice on the trail and summit approach.

Pray for snow!

More Information: http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=636, http://mtsanjacinto.info/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=6fa45979eed52ba5ffc35100ff9cc233