Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest

Although California has its share of natural - and unnatural disasters, it also has some of the greatest biodiversity present on the planet; and some of the most impressive examples of biodiversity are the types of trees present in California. California has the world's tallest tree; and the world's largest tree (the General Sherman). California also has some of the world's oldest trees, Bristlecone Pines, which are also the oldest trees in North America. The largest concentration of Bristlecone Pines can be found in two spots in the White Mountains of California, in the Schulman and Patriarch Groves of the Inyo National Forest. 

 

Directions: The Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest is located in the White Mountains, which is a remote area of California. The Forest Service, which manages the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest has provided some great directions here to Schulman Grove. From Schulman Grove, it is another twelve miles on a graded gravel road to Patriarch Grove. Before you go, however, you should know couple things about the White Mountains: 1) While the total distance from Big Pine to the Schulman Grove is only 23 miles, the roads are single-lane, windy mountain roads. This means that even under ideal conditions, it is about an hour drive one way; 2) The White Mountains are high – quite high, over 9,000 feet, topping out at White Mountain, which is over 14,000 feet. A majority of the White Mountain Road is above 6,000 feet, which means that during a large portion of the year, part, or all of the road is inaccessible, as it is covered with snow and ice. In particular, the road from Schulman Grove to Patriarch Grove and beyond to the Barcroft Station is usually inaccessible and unplowed well into June or July of most years. While these conditions are great for snowshoeing or cross country skiing, they are not good for driving; 3) While the White Mountain Road from Schulman Grove to the Patriarch Grove is graded, it is unpaved. The conditions on that road vary depending on the season; and on when the Forest Service has graded/conducted repairs upon it. While it is passable at times in a regular car, at times AWD or 4WD is required. Depending on the season, judge the conditions accordingly before setting out in your car, as the area is quite remote, and does not have cellular coverage.

The Schulman Grove has an interpretive trail that winds through some of the Bristlecone Pines, the Methuselah Loop Trail. The trail is named for the oldest bristlecone pine, Methuselah, which is over 4,700 years old. It can be difficult to judge a large amount of time like this, so to put this accomplishment in layman's terms, this tree sprouted while the Egyptians were still constructing the pyramids. This tree has lived through the major events of the human race; and has had to survive the climactic changes that have passed through the White Mountains on a yearly basis, from droughts to storms, as well as insects, fires, and the occasional earthquake. If that isn’t amazing, I’m not sure what is. Then again, if you don’t find it amazing, maybe you don’t like trees – or history – or both.

The 4.5 mile long loop trail begins at the Schulman Grove parking lot. Although the trail is relatively flat, with only 800 total feet of elevation gain, it starts at an elevation of just over 10,000 feet. Because of the high elevation, this hike can be difficult for people who have traveled to the Schulman Grove for a day, even though it is not a challenging hike based on the mileage. For purposes of perspective, Big Pine is 3,989 feet elevation; so a day visitor will gain some 6,000 feet in a matter of hours if they head up to the Schulman Grove by car.  In my opinion, even if you do not want to hike the entirety of the trail, you should hike a portion of the trail, as it allows you to experience the desolation that these trees have survived and thrived in for thousands of years; and it also allows you to get up close and personal with some of the living organisms on the planet, meaning that you can see the what the effects are of hundreds of years water, wind, and sun on the trees. For visitors that have the time, the Patriarch Grove is located twelve miles to the North of Schulman Grove on the unpaved portion of the White Rim Road. 

Trivia. Out of the three unique trees in California - tallest, oldest, and largest, only the General Sherman (the largest) is known and readily accessible to the public. The tallest tree is unmarked, and hidden somewhere in Humboldt State Park, and Methuselah, the oldest bristlecone pine has also received the same treatment from the Forest Service. 

Poetry about Bristlecone Pines (Not written by me).  I grow in dolomite soil/facing harsh elements./My thoughts live for thirty years/with minimal nutrients./Your wild fires will consume me,/but I grow in spite of you./My bark is decimated,/Yet I will weather it through./Strong winds spread innuendos/of weakness, sickness and death./But winds do not contemplate/what inspires my current breath./The forest seems so clueless/in assuming I am dead./I am not dead already,/I am already dead.

The trouble with Mountain Goats

The trouble with Mountain Goats

A couple weeks ago, I was up at White Mountain in California. The standard route up White Mountain leads past the Barcroft Research Station, which is one of the highest, if not the highest research laboratory in the world. On our way back down from White Mountain, my climbing partner brought my attention to a sign that was near the road/trail to Barcroft. It said, “Attention Hikers. Report all Mountain Goats sightings to DHS.” At the time, we were ready to get off the mountain and back to the car, so we didn’t stop to take a picture of this sign. However, within fifty feet of the sign we were having a vigorous discussion about why the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) would want to know about mountain goats. We quickly agreed that it would make rational sense if the Forest Service, National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, or Department of Fish and Game wanted to know about mountain goat sightings. But the Department of Homeland Security? Were these terrorist goats? Or terrorists disguised as goats? Or, even worse, goats disguised as terrorists? As we walked, the more the “goat sign” felt like a Doctor Strangelove type situation to me. Were these goats trying to get at our precious bodily fluids? And, while the Department of Homeland Security has to secure the nation from the many threats it faces, since when did goats become a threat?

Devils Hole

Devils Hole

Not only is there water in the desert at Ash Meadows, there’s also a bottomless pit as well. Even more importantly, this bottomless pit isn’t just any bottomless pit: it’s full of water – fossil water – that’s fed from an underground aquifer. If a bottomless pit that happens to be full of water isn’t quite interesting enough for you, I’ve got another fact about this geologic feature that might sweeten the deal for you: it contains a species of fish –pupfish - that has been isolated from the rest of the world for over 10,000 years, and only lives in this one specific spot. If that isn’t enough to make you want to visit the Devils Hole, I learned first-hand that the whole area has more security than some jails. That’s right: the Devils Hole has so much security and protection, it makes one wonder if what’s in the hole is really being protected; or if we, the denizens of the planet are being protected from what’s in the Devils Hole.

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

In Southwestern Nevada, there’s a place where some of the purest, clearest, cleanest and most pristine water bubbles to the surface. Shocked? You shouldn’t be. As I’ve discussed before, large swathes of Eastern California used to be glacial lakes, such as where present day Trona and the Trona Pinnacles are located. There’s also an oasis in the former town of Zzyzx, and groundwater at Salt Creek in Death Valley and Badwater. Even cooler, Death Valley has salt pools that randomly appear and disappear across the Valley floor proper in random locations (one of the more accessible pools is currently located by the Devil’s Golf Course, but it is closing – slowly!). When you look at it like this, through the lens of time, geologic change, as well as the interconnected nature of the environment, crystal clear desert oases really aren’t that surprising.

Big Dune, Nevada

Big Dune, Nevada

Dune. Big Dune. Nope, it’s not something I made up. It is an actual place, and that’s its actual name. To me, the name sounds like something out a spaghetti western, or science fiction movie. The name is so simple, it is possible to imagine just about anything going on there; and who knows – just about anything might be going on there. I came across Big Dune when I was traveling from 20 Mule Team Canyon in Death Valley to Rhyolite, Nevada. Since I’m always game for an adventure, I decided that I would explore Big Dune after seeing if Rhyolite was really haunted; and this is what I learned on my visit:

Eureka Mine, Death Valley - Likely Closed for Exploration

Yep, those bars look pretty solid, which means the Eureka Mine is closed. (September 2012)​

Yep, those bars look pretty solid, which means the Eureka Mine is closed. (September 2012)​

Back in February, I was talking about a place off of Wildrose Road, the Eureka Mine, which you used to be able to explore (or so I was led to believe). (Article here)​. A couple weeks ago, after I passed through Trona, I stopped by, because I wanted to check it out as it was closed in February. I stopped by one entrance, and then another, and then another, and found the same thing you can see in all of the pictures: the mine entrances were blocked off. At this point, I stopped, and had a good think. Those metal bars blocking the mine entrances? Fairly permanent. And by fairly permanent, I mean, actually permanent.  I'll admit that I didn't have time to talk to a NPS Ranger about this, since I was on my way to 20 Mule Team Canyon, but at this point, after visiting twice at two completely separate times in the year, I can only conclude the mine is closed for good at this point. It is, however, still a really cool spot to visit, and after all, the mine is probably closed to protect the public from Morlocks, and that's a good thing!

Trona Pinnacles

Trona Pinnacles

Everything has its time.-Dr. Who. Think about that for a second – everything has its time. It’s simple, elegant, and true. Everything – no matter what it is, has its time. There are songs that had meanings in life that you forgot but instantly remember when you hear them again; there’s foods that comfort you when you need them; and there’s smells that have the power to drag you to ancient epochs past. This is to say nothing of people, things, places, and pretty much every tangible and intangible thing in life. Everything has its time. The practical application of this phrase, however, is present in Trona, California, where the Trona Pinnacles currently stand.