About Backpacking and Great Walks

Take a course in good water and air; and in the eternal youth of Nature you may renew your own. Go quietly, alone; no harm will befall you.-John Muir

 

There are hikes in the world that are greater than hikes. They are greater than hikes because most of the time, they consist of distances that cannot be covered in a single day by a single person. These hikes are greater than hikes because even if the distance isn’t that great, the scenery and the natural beauty present on them demand that the individual attempting that hike stop, watch, and listen at what the world is telling them through trees, mountains, hills, meadows, streams, and every other natural feature. It is for these hikes that are greater than hikes that the backpack was developed; and the term “backpacking” invented. And, if you really stop and think about it, backpacking is one of the oldest “sports” on the planet; except that for eons, it wasn’t considered a sport – it was considered a way of life for humans to get from one destination to another!

Today, things are obviously a little different, but the lessons our ancestors took from spending time in the wild remain; carried through time by such luminaries as John Muir (“Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.”) While backpacking is a vacation activity or sport to many people, it also is a reflection of a world-wide historic tradition of becoming one with nature at certain points in life. In this respect, there are backpacking trips, and there are areas that are known as “Great Walks”. To me, any trip of a day or more is a great walk, but while it is hard to judge, some walks are greater than others. In any event, the purpose of this section is to discuss some of the backpacking trips and great walks I’ve been on, in all forms – gear, directions, and everything in between. If you are considering getting started in backpacking, or attempting the great walks of the world, remember this:  mountaineering is the freedom of the hills; backpacking is the freedom of everything.  I say this because with the right skills, the right gear, and the right motivation, a person can roam forever with his backpack, stopping only to find food – much as people have always done. Backpacking, therefore, is a great freedom – and whether you do it for a day, or two days, I highly recommend it, and hope to see you on the trail.

Current Conditions Vivian Creek Trail, June 2012 to San Gorgonio Summit

Mill Creek, heading up Vivian Creek Trail, 6/2012

There’s something about San Gorgonio. I don’t know exactly what it is, but there’s something about it. There must be something about it, because I keep going back to climb it. There is one thing that I am sure about, however, and that is that the mountain doesn’t get any respect. In the mountaineering community, the summer ascent of San Gorgonio is written off as a mere “walk-up”, meaning that all you have to do is walk to the summit – no technical skill is required. While it is true that no technical skills are required to summit in the summertime, let’s talk statistics for a minute though: San Gorgonio is the highest mountain in Southern California at 11,502 feet. If you are taking the most popular trail, the Vivian Creek Trail, which I am discussing here, the trailhead elevation is 6,080 feet.

Moreover, according to the National Forest Service, from the Vivian Creek Trailhead, you will hike 9.3 miles one-way to reach the summit (more on distance at the bottom). This means that you will gain over 5,000 feet of elevation and walk over 18 miles to summit the peak and return. In order to summit San Gorgonio in the summer, you can also encounter a temperature range of 30 to 90 degrees. So, no, San Gorgonio is not the hardest, most technical peak to summit in the world. Then again, it’s not a cakewalk either. At the easiest, it’s a hard moderate hike; and in some respects, it is strenuous – so be prepared.

Treeline, Vivian Creek Trail, 6/2012 

Directions: The trailhead is located at the Forest Falls parking area. If you are coming from the West, you will take the I-10 East, and exit University Avenue, which you will follow for one mile, before turning right onto the CA-38, which at that point is signed as Lugonia Avenue. From that point, it is fourteen miles to the trailhead. Along the way, you will want to stop at the Mill Creek Ranger Station, which is located in Mentone to pick up two things: 1) A wilderness permit; and 2) A National Forest Adventure Pass. This is a popular hike (especially as it is right outside Los Angeles), and it is possible that you may not be able to obtain a permit if you are going on a weekend. However, reports of never being able to obtain a permit are exaggerations. Obviously, like any regulated trailhead, the day you are going, and the size of your group will affect whether you can obtain a permit or not. I’ve been going for years, and I’ve never had a problem; but I’ve also never had a group of larger than seven people. The good news about the permit is that it is free. One of the things that has changed about this hike is that the Forest Falls parking area now has a fee kiosk prior to entering the lot, and the Rangers do monitor the area for compliance, so you will need that $15.00 Adventure Pass for your car, unless you want a more expensive ticket!

 From Forest Falls, the trail heads up past some inholdings, before crossing Mill Creek. Once you cross Mill Creek, the trail really begins, and the next mile of trail leading up to Vivian Creek Camp is steep. I’ve climbed steeper sections of trail; and longer sections of trail, but in my mind, this section is up there as one of the most difficult and steepest sections that I have traversed. Be sure that you pace yourself accordingly, as the remainder of the trail is also uphill, and you still have a long distance to go. After this section, you will be in a wooded valley next to Vivian Creek, and Vivian Creek Camp. The trail levels out slightly to pass through the valley, and winds up gradually to Halfway Camp. I always try to enjoy this section of the hike, as there is no gradual elevation gain from Halfway Camp to the peak.

Summit, San Gorgonio, 6/16/2012

From Halfway Camp, there are a number of switchbacks that lead up to High Creek Camp; and then from High Creek Camp, there are a series of steeper switchbacks that lead you up to a ridgeline, where you will have clear unobstructed views of the peak, and the surrounding high country. At that point, there are a few remaining switchbacks that remain before you clear the treeline, but after that, it is a long steep ascent along the ridgeline up to the saddle just below the summit. Once you have attained the top of the ridge, you will be approximately half a mile from the summit, and have a negligible amount of elevation left to gain. After you have reached the summit, you will return the same way you came.

Current Conditions: I arrived at the Forest Falls parking area at around 7:25 a.m. on Saturday, and as I expected, the lot was nearly full at that point. Make no mistake about it, this is a popular hike, and should you arrive later in the day, you will risk not finding a parking spot. Since my gear was already packed, all I had to do was put on sunscreen, and I was ready to go. As it’s been a dry year, there was a negligible amount of water in Mill Creek – one foot wide, several inches deep; and I would not consider it a crossing at this point in time. Again, I can’t say it enough – that first section of trail up to Vivian Creek Camp is brutally steep, and I passed a number of people who were hurting/gassed on that section of trail on Saturday. While there was water flowing in Vivian Creek by the campground, it was flowing at a very low level, one that I would expect to see in late August or September. If I was to estimate, I would say that it will likely be dry within the next two weeks to a month. It’s also worth noting that I did not see any water flowing above Vivian Creek, so if you are backpacking or day-hiking, and plan to filter water; you should likely adjust your plans accordingly.

 Vivian Creek Trail, 06/16/2012

As for the rest of the trail, I’d say that it was in excellent shape the rest of the way up the mountain; and there were no obstacles that I saw to report or avoid. In terms of weather; as I got an early start, I avoided the heat from Mill Creek up to High Camp. However, it was very dry, and at or around High Camp, there were strong wind gusts of 25-30mph that persisted along the exposed traverse from treeline to the summit. These strong winds pelted me with all sorts of rocks, grit, and dirt; and at times, were physically pushing back against me on the ascent. There were also a few occasions, I felt like they were ripping the breath from my lungs. These winds made an already long day longer, as they were dry, which took more of moisture; and cold, which raised the potential for hypothermia (if I had not had the proper gear).

With respect to the second point, I saw a number of people who were not prepared for the cold – no jackets, wearing shorts – who were really struggling with the conditions past treeline. As always, be prepared with the proper gear; and check the conditions before you go. There is no snow anywhere on the summit; nor anywhere near the summit. Again, past Vivian Creek, I saw no flowing water of any sort; so plan accordingly. I spent a little less time on the summit than planned (due to the wind); and headed back down after about twenty minutes. On the descent, it was hot at all elevations below Halfway Camp. It looks like it will be a long, hot, dry, summer, so be warned if you are attempting the mountain from this point on. Roundtrip time for me was 8:05 (excluding stops), which seems pretty good in retrospect, but seemed slow at the time, but it was still a good day. At this point, I cannot reiterate enough: carry plenty of water if you attempt this hike during 2012, as it will be dry and hot!

Distance: It may surprise you, but the jury is out on how long this hike actually is. I spent a lot of time ruminating about this in 2010 (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/8/19/san-gorgonio-july-31-2010-vivian-creek-to-summit-156-miles-r.html); but the point is that it is a long hike. Summitpost lists it at 7.8 to 8.4 miles one way (http://www.summitpost.org/vivian-creek/155752); Local Hikes lists it at 16 miles roundtrip (http://www.localhikes.com/Hikes/SanGorgonioviaVivianCreek_4472.asp); and the National Forest Service calls it 18.6 roundtrip (http://www.sgwa.org/Wilderness_Mileage.pdf). Someday, I’m going to have to use my own GPS on it, and find out for sure how long it really is but at this point, I’m becoming more and more inclined to call it 18.6 to 19.5 miles, as confirmed here: http://trailtrove.com/san-gorgonio-peak-via-vivian-creek-trail. In any event, be prepared for a long day (or series of days, if you backpack it), and to go at least sixteen miles roundtrip.

More Information: http://www.sgwa.org/trails2.htm, http://www.sgwa.org/trails.htm#wilderness_conditions, http://members.boardhost.com/sgva/, http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/sbnf/recarea/?recid=26575

Mt. Whitney Trail (Whitney Portal to Summit)

Snowfield in Consultation Lake drainage, June 2011

At 14,505 feet, Mt. Whitney is the highest peak in the continental United States. As the “highest peak”, it carries a certain amount of mountaineering cache. How much mountaineering cache? Well, that depends on what kind of a mountaineer one aspires to be; and when one climbs the mountain. Some mountaineers dismiss the peak as a “walk-up” because in July and August when the snow melts, a summit attempt only requires hiking eleven miles to the summit and eleven miles back down to the trailhead, which requires no technical climbing skills at all. From late fall to mid-summer, when the trail is covered with snow, the peak is not a mere “walk-up”, and technical skills are required to traverse snowfields safely while climbing up to the summit. I’ve been on the peak – and on the mountain a number of times, and what I can say about the mountain is this: there are prettier mountains; there are uglier mountains; it can be a place of mystic serenity; and it can be a place of brutal despair; but even though I’ve summited it seven times, I keep going back because it’s there, and because I like to go to the mountains to seek their tidings for my own inner peace.

But let’s talk about the facts about Mt. Whitney. Assuming you are taking the Whitney Portal Trail – the most popular trail, and the one that is run by a lottery, you are talking about over 6,000 feet of elevation gain to the summit; and 6,000 feet of elevation loss from the summit. You are talking about a total distance of twenty-two miles roundtrip. While these numbers won’t confuse anyone with the distances and the elevations gained and lost in the Himalayas, they’re nothing to take lightly either. This is to say nothing of the other hazards that you will encounter on the mountain: acclimatization issues, heatstroke, dehydration, hypothermia, weather, bears, and yes, marmots. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2007/11/21/las-guide-to-summiting-whitney-part-v-minor-to-major-potenti.html).

 The "chute", June, 2011

As I mentioned above, I’ve been on the peak a number of times (11); and I’ve summited seven times – this may seem like a lot, until you realize that other, more experienced climbers have been on the peak many more times than you (26 weeks in a row consecutively; 10 times in a week). The best things to know about Whitney are to know your limits and be prepared. What is the best resource for information about Mt. Whitney and current conditions? The Mt. Whitney Portal message board. Every time that I’ve climbed Mt. Whitney (in the internet age), this board has provided me with invaluable resources about conditions and what to expect. This information is crucial, because conditions vary on the mountain from day to day, and month to month. In 2001, when I summited Whitney, it was 95 degrees on the switchbacks – and it felt like 120 in the direct sun. In 2005, I couldn’t make it past Trail Camp in early May because I had no snowshoes, and was breaking trail the whole way. In 2007, when I backpacked up with a group, we had 50-70 mph winds ripping through our camp at Trail Camp all night before our summit bid the next day.

In 2009, I got off the summit just before clouds rolled in and the thundersnow began. In 2010 I got my group off of the summit and trail crest just as it began to snow on the day of the summer solstice. This is to say nothing of what happened in 2002, or any other year. In order to summit the mountain, you have to know the conditions, and be prepared for the conditions, as well as know your own physical condition and limits. Last year, in 2011, when I led my group up in mid-June (when all of these pictures were taken), there was still quite a bit of snow. In fact, there was more snow than when I had taken my group up on June 20, 2010. (Pictures here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/7/1/mt-whitney-portal-to-summit-june-21-2010-part-two.html).

Looking back down the chute, June 2011

Like 2010, we had decided that we were going up the mountain in one day, and we were taking the main trail. Unlike 2010, however, we ran into snow covering the trail from a point just beyond Lone Pine Lake. At that point, it was no problem – since we had the proper gear and knowledge, we traversed firm, packed snow through the drainage of Consultation Lake up toward trail camp. We arrived at Trail Camp at around ~9 a.m., which we assumed would give us plenty of time to traverse the snow covering the “chute” to Trail Crest. However, unlike 2010, the snow in the chute was already warm and slightly sloppy at that time of day. The result? We spent a brutal two hours slogging through knee high soft snow to Trail Crest in the direct sun, which totally destroyed our energy levels.

After a rest, we headed out toward the summit along the backside. While my two climbing partners were still in good form, I was dragging. Even worse, having been up the summit seven times, I knew I was dragging. And this is where the first lesson about Mt. Whitney comes in: know your limits. In the 11 times I have been on the mountain, I have seen all sorts of crazy things, mostly involving people not being prepared, and not knowing their limits. Now, there’s a fine line here: as a mountaineer, you want to push yourself to accomplish your goal; but you also want to be safe. As Sir Edmund Hillary noted, a successful climb of any mountain involves descending. On Whitney, like any mountain, you have to know your limits, especially when risks like altitude sickness do exist. You have to know that when you are on the summit you are only halfway done with the hike. Think about that: on Whitney, when you are on the summit, you still have to descend 11 miles safely, which, like in 2011 and 2010, may be treacherous due to snow and ice. You have to apportion your energy accordingly, and know your limits.

 West Side,Mt. Whitney Trail, June 2011

As for me in 2011, I sat down on the crest within a quarter mile of the summit (how do I know it was ¼ mile or less? Really? After being there past there 7 times, you know) and waited for my friends to come down. Could I have made it to the summit? Sure, I could have made it. Did I have to make it? No. Would anything bad have happened to me on the descent had I gone for it? Probably not. But stopping to rest; take in the view; and the mountain was the right decision and one that I would make again. (More on that here: http://youtu.be/Up-KyPn5Y8g). Was it easy? Nope, I am a very competitive person, and having been to the summit seven times before doesn’t make me less competitive, especially knowing how close I was. Still, it was the right decision, and next week I’ll be going back – and stay tuned to see where I end up on the mountain. But if you are considering attempting to summit, be prepared – and know your limits!

Current Conditions for 2012: There was not much snow this year in the Sierra, so from what I hear, the trail is pretty clear to Trail Camp. However, check back in next week for my report on the trail conditions. At this point, it still appears that you will need an ice axe, and crampons. 

Whitney Portal Message Boards: http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=1&page=1