Zzyzx, Mojave National Preserve

Zzyzx! It sounds like a species or planet from Douglas Adams’ Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. It also sounds like a dread sickness, “After Bart got the zzyzx, he only lived one minute!” Or, if you’re heading North on the I-15 to Las Vegas, and it’s late at night, the word and exit (the last exit before Baker) makes you think, “Zzyzx – man, I wish I was in Vegas so I could get zome zzzzzzzyzx of my own”(even though everyone knows that no one sleeps in Vegas!). Or, if you’re on your way back from Vegas, the word sounds like the best curse ever, because you’ve been stuck in 110 degree traffic for the last hour on the I-15 South, and you lost all of your money, and the girl/guy you were with. In this case, you’re probably thinking, “I got your ZZYZX right here you son of a sea monkey!!!”

However, if you’re a true desert wanderer, you’re not thinking any of these things. You’re thinking, “Hey, that’s a mighty strange term – I wonder what exactly is off Zzyzx???” And, since I am a true desert wanderer, let me tell you what’s off Zzyzx road (just in case you elect not to stop). To the North, there’s desert, and desert tortoises. To the South, there’s more desert – Mojave National Preserve desert, to be exact, and if you follow the road down, you’ll see a sign that says this “Zzyzx, 6 miles”. If you continue following the road, you’ll wind along some salt flat, and the road will go from paved to graded gravel, to paved again, and then to gravel, and then you’ll be in a parking lot outside of the town of Zzyzx.

Astute observers and readers are now likely muttering at their screens, “What? You’re telling me there’s a town in the middle of the Mojave called Zzyzx? Yeah, right. I’d have heard of this before. Nice try!” To this, let me assure you that had you been alive in say, 1944, you would have definitely heard of Zzyzx – on a little box called the radio. Back then, it was developed by Curtis Howe Springer, who had his own radio show promoting the water (yes, there’s water – and lots of it there), selling the water, and promoting his own health spa and yes, radio evangelism. Prior to that, it was called Soda Springs, and inhabited thousands of years ago by prehistoric man. Today, what remains is pretty much all of the town built by Springer, which is now the California State University Desert Studies center. While classes are held there regularly, every time I’ve been there, the place has been empty and deserted. This brings me to my last point about Zzyzx – it’s eerie. When its high noon, and you’re standing by the abandoned swing set on the Boulevard of Dreams (actual street name), you start to wonder where the inhabitants are, and what happened to them. Then you start to wonder, “Are they coming to get me? Is this a horror movie? Is what got them going to get me??” Or maybe that’s just me. Horror movie qualities aside, the town has a cute art deco feel and interesting street names, so if you’ve been stuck in traffic, or want to see a part of America that’s disappeared, check it out – Zzyzx.

Directions: See above, but first exit after Baker, or first exist before Baker. Zzyzx exit, of course.

Tips:What, you need more? I mean, really, I think this whole post is a giant tip. How many of you knew there was a town out in the Mojave also called Zzyzx? I thought not. Ok, ok. I say, wait for a starry night, and drive out to the town while listening to a little Blue Moon by ol’ blue eyes himself, Frank Sinatra to get a feel for how Zzyzx was in its heyday. That, and don’t drink the water out there: Springer may have sold it, but was ultimately busted for being the “King of Quacks”! (There’s also a good recording of Springer at the Kelso NPS Museum, should you wish to listen to his radio claims).

More Information:http://www.nps.gov/moja/planyourvisit/zzyzx.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zzyzx,_California, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curtis_Howe_Springer, http://www.weirdus.com/states/california/fabled_people_and_places/zzyyxxzz/index.php

The Mojave Desert Tortoise Application and CA Desert Application

It used to be that you'd head out to the wilderness with nothing but a map, compass, and dagnabit, a film camera on your back, along with other things that comprised your ten essentials. That was then - and this is now. Today, most of us carry a smartphone, which, among other things, can be your camera, GPS unit, map repository, and many other things. I'm an avid iPhone user, and I definitely am always looking for new applications to go along with my existing group of battery draining applications.

Since I've been talking about the desert for the last couple weeks, it seemed like a good idea to review two of my new favorite desert related applications.

Watch for Tortoise!The first is the Mojave Desert Tortoise App, and it can be found here: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mojave-desert-tortoise/id400806083?mt=8 . This is a great little app that has a quick quiz about the Mojave Desert Tortoise and its lifestyle, as well as handy facts, should you be lucky enough to see one, and even more importantly, should you be lucky enough to see one, a way to take a picture and upload it to researchers seeking to better understand and protect the tortoise - so, like the sign says - "Watch for Desert Tortoise"(!). (As a hint, now would not be a good time to use this app, as the Tortoises are hibernating).

Second, and equally as helpful is the California Desert Application, which can be found here: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ca-desert/id431028825?mt=8. This is a great little app with an intereactive map of desert areas, an interactive interface regarding different activities that are available in these areas, and a section for recent news and events going on in those areas.

Also, the best news about these apps is that they are both free, so should you have an iPhone, and plan to be out exploring in the local Southern Californian Deserts, be sure to check them out!

See you on the Interwebs!

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main Boulder

If I said to you, "Riddle me this, Bat-boy, which is the third largest national park/preserve in the lower forty eight states?", you'd probably pause for a minute, and respond with, "Yellowstone", "Yosemite", "Grand Canyon", or maybe if you were feeling erudite, "Big Bend". But you'd be wrong: the answer is the Mojave National Preserve. In this respect, Mojave National Preserve ("MNP") is probably the stealthist park in the National Park Service network, which is quite a feat considering how large it is! While I can't say exactly why this is - perhaps it's because it loses visitors to its more popular siblings, Joshua Tree and Death Valley, to its South and North, respectively; or perhaps its because it's in a remote area (halfway between Las Vegas and halfway between Los Angeles); what I can say for sure is that it's full of interesting items and adventures. 

For example: the Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs. These petroglyphs are located within a quarter of a mile (.25) from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center on the Ring Loop Trail, and yet, are relatively unknown, undiscovered, and even on a weekend, berefit of visitors. These petroglyphs are roughly ten to twelve thousand years old from what I've been told, and from what I saw, are in good condition, considering they are on some exposed boulders, and have likely been visited by thousands of people. 

Directions: Take the Ring Loop Trail from the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center. Follow the trail South/Southeast for a quarter of a mile (.25). Before the trail turns West, there will be a grouping of boulders. The petroglyphs are on the main face of a larger boulder, but smaller groupings appear on other boulders in the cluster.

Tips: The petroglyphs are faint in places, and if you are booking along, and not paying attention to your desert surroundings, you will pass them easily. Take your time, and scan the exposed rock faces as you pass by. In addition, should you want a good 360 degree view of the surrounding hole in the wall region, the hill above the boulders can be scrambled up easily for a great view! It's also worth noting that the interpretive rangers at Hole-in-the-Wall are conducting programs about the petroglyphs once a week, at this point, occurring on Saturdays (check with the Visitor Center should you visit to ensure that this is still the correct day when you visit). And, as it is the desert, do take plenty of water, and be respectful of the ancient art that exists on these rocks.

Hole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs, Main BoulderHole-in-the-Wall Petroglyphs

The Integratron

I’m a big fan of science fiction. Classic science fiction; bad science fiction; new science fiction, any kind of science fiction, really. Alright, I’ll draw the line at really bad science fiction, but I’ll be honest here: it’s hard to cross that line. That I like science fiction shouldn’t be surprising to anyone – after all, I made a reference to Morlocks just two posts back. (Quick! Name that novel….anyone? The Time Machine, of course!). Maybe I love science fiction so much because I spent my formative years reading classic science fiction stories from Ray Bradbury, Isaac Asimov, and Arthur C. Clarke, among others. Or maybe it’s because I spent those same formative years watching lots of science fiction movies – Forbidden Planet, The Black Hole, 2001, and of course, Star Wars. Or maybe it’s the fanciful and imaginative aspects of science fiction that appeal to me and appealed to me all those years ago – of traveling to other dimensions, talking robots, space travel, and everything else in between with all of its adventure and associated perils.

These days on planet earth, there’s plenty of dystopian things going on, but not enough real-life science fiction going on, especially now that the Shuttle program was mothballed by NASA. However, if you know where to look, there are still some weird science fiction oddities out there. Case in point: the Integratron. First off, it’s got that weird, science fiction-y type of name for new and future technology. I mean, try working it into a sentence: “I have to go get rejuvenated at the Integraaaaaatron. Only twenty pieces of ore!”

Second, it was designed by a former aircraft mechanic and engineer, George van Tassel – who – wait for it – said he was telepathically contacted by – wait for it – Venusians. Alright, we’re in deep science fiction territory now! Third, Van Tassel said that they provided him with the instructions to design the machine, telepathically, and said that it would rejuvenate human tissue because it was above an “energy vortex”. And with those three pieces of evidence, I rest my case: the Integratron is straight out of some science fiction novel or movie, except it exists here, in real life!

Frankly, I don’t know if the machine actually works, or ever actually worked, what an energy vortex is, or where Van Tassel got name for it (aside from the telepathic Venusians). But what I do know is that it’s a cool place to visit; and that most impressively, the interior of the structure is made in a perfect dome, out of wood – with no nails or other metal objects! I also know what you’re saying now (the Venusians gave me mind reading powers since I’ve been there, see!): “This sounds cool and all, but what’s there to do there in the middle of the desert since you don’t know if the machine works?”. Right now, the Integratron is owned by a group of people who provide what are known as “sound baths” in the machine on quartz bowls, every Saturday and Sunday.

Now here’s where it gets weird: I’m a science fiction fan, but I’m an avowed skeptic. When I heard about the sound baths, I thought that it sounded downright strange and hokey. But…I’ve been there two times now, and I have to admit something is going on in that dome when the sound bath is going on. Whether its actual vortexenergy power or the rejuvenating properties of a good nap, something happens when you’re in that dome during that sound bath. So, if you’re ever out by Landers, California, I say, indulge your inner science fiction self, and go check it out, and if you do learn any of the mysteries I’ve touched upon above, report back to me!

Directions:http://www.integratron.com/Directions.html

Tips: Even if you miss the sound bath, you should check out the inside of the dome, it’s pretty spectacular. And if you do want to experience the sound bath, I recommend that you bring your own blanket or pad, just because you can – why not be as relaxed as possible?

Wheel of Kama and the Wheel of War

This post is for reader RVMaster2022, who recently wrote me asking whether I knew any more about the "Wheel of Kama" outside Slab City, and whether I had any more images of the art that was there. Since I'm always happy to answer reader questions, and put the answer up for other interested parties, here's what I know, RVMaster2022. 

When I was at Salvation Mountain (detailed here: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/11/17/salvation-mountain.html) I walked up to the top of Salvation Mountain, and saw there were two water tanks off in the near distance that appeared to also be painted. Since I'm curious, I set off, and was at first, reluctantly followed by my group. As we drew closer, I shouted back two things to the group: 1) "You'd better not leave me in the middle of nowhere", and 2) "Hey look - it's the Wheel of Karma.....er, Wheel of Kama." As soon as I uttered the second phrase, and got a good look at the Wheel of Kama, I started laughing. Once we had checked out the whole wheel which is elaborately decorated and painted, we of course had to go over to the next water tank, which we could tell was also elaborately painted. Once there, we saw that it was not about love, but about WAR (Obvious, right, with a name like "Wheel of WAR"). However, despite being about war, it also had some pretty amazing art, including a dragon made completely from spent shotgun shells (pictured above in the link, and below in the pictures here). And frankly, that's all I can tell you about these modern petroglyphs, other than its some amazing work, and that if you're at Salvation Mountain, they're amazing to also see, but not the work of Leonard. If I was to speculate (and I will), I'd say they're the work of Slab City locals, or possibly, aliens. In any case, if you're there, check it out!

Directions: From the top of Salvation Mountain, walk directly due South-East for approximately .25 miles. The tanks will be easily visible as they are quite large.

Wheel of Kama, not Karma!

Thanks for life Mom, I'm doing fine!

Dinosaurs....The recipe for the Big Bang - finally!More Information: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2010/11/17/salvation-mountain.html, http://www.flickr.com/photos/ideabunch/5374240147/, http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/winegalcj/2/1266950373/tpod.html

The Arroyo Tapiado Mud Caves

Entrance to one of the Arroyo Tapiado Mud Caves

Nothing says “exploring” like spelunking, unless you’re deathly afraid of the dark, bats, confined spaces, or were ever trapped in a cave/enslaved by Morlocks. If any of those things bother you, then caving/spelunking is not for you, and I don’t recommend it at all. Frankly, there’s no shame in not liking caving/spelunking, because in the dark, your mind and imagination can and will play all sorts of tricks as to what you perceive. I remember one time I was deep in a cave; then my light went out. In the sudden dark, I swore that I could hear footsteps paddling softly to my location. In my haste to get fresh batteries into my headlamp, I almost dropped them all over the ground, which would have been a disaster. Of course, once the new batteries were in the headlamp, there was nothing at all to be seen or heard, but to this day, I’d still swear that something was out there.

Yep, no lie - these caves are made of dried eroded mud!

Fortunately, the Arroyo Tapiado Mud Caves in Anza-Borrego State Park are not the fear-inducing type, as they are visited frequently by locals and travelers alike. You are more likely to be a few steps back from your fellow spelunkers than you are to discover something startling in these caves, which makes it a good location to practice your spelunking skills, should you be a novice. The caves are over five million years old, and are formed by erosion. Over the years, when it has rained, the water has cut into the hills, forming the various caves and channels that you can explore. The Arroyo Tapiado (meaning: mud-wall wash) Caves are some of the best preserved and most accessible caves in the world, so if you live in Southern California, this is yet another amazing feature that is accessible in a day’s drive or less.

Directions: From county road S-2 turn out at the signed Palm Spring turnoff. You will want to head down the road (note, this is a dirt road, and you will be off-roading. I’d recommend that if you are going to attempt this that you be in some sort of 4WD or AWD vehicle, although I have seen people make it out there in standard sedans – however, the road gets very soft and sandy, so if you get stuck in your non-4WD car, don’t say I didn’t warn you!) and bypass the spur road to Palm Spring (unless you want to check out the monument), and continue down Vallecito Wash. You can then park at the intersection of the road into Arroyo Tapiado, about four and one half (4.5) miles from S-2 and explore the area on foot.

Tips: Well, these are caves. And there’s a lot of them. You should have a flashlight, and if you’re smart, some sort of helmet. The helmet will protect your head from two things: falling mud, and falling bat poo. Not all caves have bats, but all bats have caves, so there’s a good chance you’ll run into some. Remember that they’re more scared of you then you are of them; and remember that they’re on the celling, so if you do startle them, there’s a high likelihood that they will poo on you, which is not pleasant. Did I mention that these caves are in the desert? They are! You’ll also want lots of water, since you’re in the desert, and since you’re exploring, you’ll probably want some sort of safety net – a buddy, or a rope or string to find your way out should you get lost.

Dry "waterfall" in the Arroyo Tapiado Cave System

I like to take a whole day to explore the area -  there’s all sorts of neat canyons in addition to the caves, so there’s plenty of things to see and do. I’ve been told that there’s purportedly ancient fossils in the caves/cave area, but either I’m blind, or these fossils have been picked clean from the caves I’ve been in (FYI, you’re not supposed to remove them, should you find them). One last thing to be aware of: Southern California is a seismically active area, and earthquakes do occur on a regular basis. Additionally, these caves are made of mud, which is not the most stable of building materials even without earthquakes. While your odds of being trapped in a cave in are probably fairly low, you should be aware that the possibility does exist, so do take what precautions you can. Other than that, have a great time, and enjoy exploring!