Hiking

Trona Pinnacles

Trona Pinnacles

Everything has its time.-Dr. Who. Think about that for a second – everything has its time. It’s simple, elegant, and true. Everything – no matter what it is, has its time. There are songs that had meanings in life that you forgot but instantly remember when you hear them again; there’s foods that comfort you when you need them; and there’s smells that have the power to drag you to ancient epochs past. This is to say nothing of people, things, places, and pretty much every tangible and intangible thing in life. Everything has its time. The practical application of this phrase, however, is present in Trona, California, where the Trona Pinnacles currently stand.

Rhyolite, Nevada - ghost town or GHOST town?

Rhyolite, Nevada - ghost town or GHOST town?

Each and every morning when I wake up, I lie there a moment with my eyes scrunched shut and my head burrowed into my pillow. Before I let my eyes determine what color they will be that day, based on that morning’s light, I lay still and think two things. I think about what Henri de Saint-Simon was told every day: “Rise, for you have great things to do today”. I’m not sure I’ve necessarily done any great things recently, but for me, it’s always something to aspire to. Second, I lie there and wonder about what I know. I start with the basics: that I am alive, that my heart is beating, I’m breathing, and that my alarm is annoying. From there, I think about what I really know. The answer always surprises me: not much. That’s right, I’ll admit it, I don’t know much. Sure, I’ll concede by all exterior appearances, I know a lot. I’ve experienced things; and I’ve learned things through the course of my life, either by trial-and-error, or actual discovery.

Climbing Mt. Shasta: Avalanche Gulch Route & Directions

Climbing Mt. Shasta: Avalanche Gulch Route & Directions

So, you want to climb Mount Shasta? Be warned, like anything else in life, it is a task fraught with perils, challenges, and heartbreak. But, like anything else in life, should you have the mental fortitude to address each of these tribulations, you will be rewarded with an enormous sense of accomplishment and the glory of a fine view. Whether Mount Shasta is the first major mountain you are attempting to summit, or the thousandth peak you have bagged, in my opinion, your best chance of reaching the summit is the tried-and-true Avalanche Gulch route. Full disclosure: the Avalanche Gulch route is the most popular route on the mountain, bar none. But let’s pause for a second here: there’s popular routes like the Mt. Whitney Trail, which have a packed lottery system and actual hordes of people on the trail; and there’s popular routes, which just mean that it’s the best and quickest route to the summit.

Volcan Mountain

Volcan Mountain

In 1995, a Democrat was President; cell phones were chunky bricks that seemed better suited to calling in air strikes; you connected to the Internet via this thing called a modem that was connected to this other thing called a land line; and cassette tapes/VHS tapes were battling it out in a format war with these things called CD’s and DVD’s. Even crazier, Val Kilmer was Batman. That’s right. Val Kilmer. Batman.  If that doesn’t prove that the 1990s was a strange time, I don’t know what does. Back then, I was just starting out as an outdoor adventurer. There was no handheld GPS; we had handheld maps, and handheld compasses – and woe betide you if you placed your compass on a car hood to take bearings! We also didn’t have hiking forums, blogs, or websites – we had these things called books. At that time, the best book for San Diego County was Afoot and Afield in San Diego County by Jerry Schad, who was the preeminent wilderness expert for the region.

Climbers Loop Trail, Mission Trails Regional Park

While San Diego County has a plethora of great hiking trails, it does not have a lot of great climbing routes. Sure, there’s some decent routes out in the desert, but realistically, no one wants to be out in the Anza Borrego desert in the dead of summer. In no particular order, some of the better places to climb in the county are on the boulders at Woodson Mountain; the summit slabs at Stonewall Peak; the final approach on Mt. Lawson; and the routes at Mission Trails Regional Park.

Steps, Climbers Loop Trail

While none of these routes are going to confuse anyone with say, Half Dome, El Capitan, or any other big wall on the planet, they’re great areas for learning and practicing your climbing skills that aren’t in a controlled environment (otherwise known as climbing gyms). All of these areas have great hikes leading to the climbing areas, but this hike is the shortest and steepest of the bunch.

Directions: The best way to access this trail is to park at the Mission Trails Regional Park Visitor Center, which is located in the main portion of the park off of Mission Gorge Road. Even though Cowles Mountain is not located in this part of the park, parking remains at a premium on the weekends by the Visitor Center, due to the popularity of the area, and its proximity to a number of trailheads. While there is some parking along Father Junipero Serra Trail, the road that runs through Mission Trails, these spots are usually taken as well by mid-day.

From the Visitor Center parking area, you will want to head down Father Junipero Serra for .40 miles. During this short distance, I would suggest that you take the opportunity to enjoy the paved, flat surface and stretch out any kinks you have in your legs, as the actual trail has few flat sections, and is most definitely not paved! At .40 miles, you will see the trailhead on the right (south) side of the road, along with a kiosk detailing the steep terrain on the trail, and various climbing routes present on the Western face of Kwaay Paay Peak. From this point, the trail ascends steeply for .34 miles. How steep is it? Well, it ascends 406 feet over that distance, so while it isn’t the steepest terrain imaginable, it’s not a walk in the park either. Once you have ascended the 406 feet, you will have great views of Mission Trails, Mission Gorge, and the climbing routes.

Climbing Routes, west Kwaay Paay Peak

Based on my experience, if you are climbing any of the routes on the western face – Middle Earth, Limbo, or the main wall, you will definitely be warmed up and ready to go by the time you reach the “top”.  If you’re not climbing, continue on along the mostly flat section of trail leading past the climbing areas, before descending down another steep section of trail. If you are solely hiking this area, the total distance for this hike is 2.2 miles roundtrip (.4 from the parking area to the trailhead, 1.2 miles on the actual trail, and .6 from the far trailhead back to the parking area).

Tips: I personally like to run this trail on weekdays. The steep terrain is very challenging, and gives you a great workout. Unlike Cowles Mountain, it is also not as busyduring the week. Do note, however, that the trail is very steep, and what I would consider “single track” in many areas. Keep an eye out for other hikers, as well as climbers carrying gear so you do not potentially run into them. Aside from that, the routes on the western face of Kwaay Paay Peak are not that technical, so they are a great area to learn how to climb if you do not; and many companies provide lessons on a weekly basis at this location. Even if you do not wish to climb, this is a hike with some great views of the surrounding terrain, and if you’re curious about climbing, good views of climbers doing what they do: climbing.

Del Dios Gorge Trail

Artichoke Thistle, near the start of the trail - beautiful, but invasive!

It’s time for some not-so-shocking true confessions today: I’m that person who stops when he thinks that he seems something interesting. I’m the person who, when he sees something interesting goes, “Hey, that looks really neat/interesting/what-is-that/different, I should check that out!” Then, I safely determine how to check it out, or, if there’s time or other constraints, mentally file the location and mysterious (or not so mysterious) thing away for a future visit. Sometimes, these places are as awesome as I think they are. Then again, sometimes, there’s a colossal letdown when I visit these spots.

Fortunately, one of San Diego’s “newer” trails is on the more awesome side of life. For years, I’ve been driving along Del Dios Highway and through the Del Dios Gorge, and have always wondered what exactly was down there. In the brief stretches where the road was not curvy, I’d peer into the gorge, and consider whether I could bushwhack through the terrain to Lake Hodges Dam. I never did this because I knew it would be hard on the environment); hard on my body (if you’ve ever traveled cross country through heavy brush, you know what I’m talking about; and because I never had the time. In 2006, the San Dieguito River Park unintentionally read my mind, and began construction of this trail in the exactarea where I had always wanted to go as part of the “coast-to-crest” path; and in 2010 the trail opened to public use. I’m not sure what was holding me back from visiting this area the last two years, but based on my hike the other day; I’ll definitely be going back in the near future.

Del Dios Gorge Bridge

Directions:  The trailhead is located in the Del Dios Gorge parking area, which is located directly off of Del Dios Highway. If you are traveling east on Del Dios Highway, you will pass Calle Ambiente on the left, and then there will be a fruit stand that is present that will be on your immediate right. At the location of the fruit stand, there is a road that is marked with “SDRP” signs that leads to the parking area. Similarly, if you’re heading west on Del Dios, you’re going to want to find a way to turn into the fruit stand and follow the access road. Do note that this access road is closed at night, so if your car is in the lot past sunset, you may be locked in the parking area. The map from the SDRP, presented as the first link below does a great job of showing where you will turn.

From the parking area, follow the remainder of the access road to the top of a slight rise to the south, where the road dead-ends next to the Crosby Estates. This is where the Del Dios Gorge Trail starts (to the east); and where the Santa Fe Trail starts (to the west). The trail from this point is well marked, and for the first quarter to half mile, heads slightly uphill along the boundary of the Crosby Estates. While it is a bit disappointing to be directly next to civilization during this section of trail, there are great views of the mysterious Del Dios Gorge below. Depending on what season it is, you will also be able to view larger stretches of flowing water. When I went two weeks ago, there was not much water flowing, but 2012 has been a dry year, and it is summertime – but it was still cool to see what was heading through the gorge.

Lake Hodges Dam

After the initial section along, the trail traverses along the gorge, before dropping down past some interesting interpretive panels about bats, and then down into the gorge proper, where it crosses a fancy bridge that was installed specifically for the trail. This is a great spot to peer into the river, and check out the riparian terrain all surrounding you at this point. From the bridge on, however, was my favorite stretch of trail, as you are in the Del Dios Gorge proper, under partial tree cover, and next to the river. While you are technically beneath/next to Del Dios Highway at this point, I found the trail to be fairly quiet from ambient vehicle noise. At this point, the trail also begins to ascend along the side of the gorge to provide you with a great viewpoint to view the Lake Hodges Dam. At around the 1.75 mile mark, one way, there is another great interpretive panel display about wildfires, and the Dam itself. From that point, it is another slight uphill grade to have a great view of the Dam proper at the two mile point. At this point, you can elect to turn back to your car for a moderate four mile hike, or you can continue along the well-marked trail along the North Shore of Lake Hodges for an extended distance.

Tips: At 1.5 miles from the parking lot, there is a dirt access road turnoff for Lake Hodges Dam. It is impossible to miss, as it is well-marked with a plethora of “Keep-Out” signs. Although I personally would never venture into an area marked “Keep-Out”, I would suspect that if you follow it, you would have a great view of the lower area of the Lake Hodges Dam. I’m only telling you, the reader this, so you do not get lost and venture down to the Dam and receive a ticket, or get arrested, so you may consider that tip for informational use only. As for the rest, this is a great spot to jump off for a longer hike; and although I haven’t been here during the spring, I’d suspect that springtime is the best time for this trail due to wildflowers, and higher water flow in the river, and potentially over the Dam.

Trails of Santa Ysabel Open Space Preserve (West)

Lower Creek Trail, June 2012

Stop the presses. I have found the quietest place in San Diego County to go hiking. That’s right. There are many quiet places, but this place is the quietest. It is a place where silence is silent. It is a place where you can not only feel, but hear the sounds of grasshoppers bouncing off your shirt. It is a place where ground squirrels sound like lions crashing through the underbrush. It’s a place with a small babbling creek, a secret lake, and plants rustling in the afternoon breeze – but nothing else. It’s also a place that looks suspiciously like a “Happy Cow” commercial from the State of California. And, if you’re lucky, you too can visit it on a day when it is not that busy, because it is not that busy almost every day.

Directions: The Preserve is located one mile west of Santa Ysabel directly off of Highway 78 on the north side of the highway. If you are coming from the west on Highway 78, the Preserve is located thirteen miles east of Ramona. The entrance/parking area is clearly signed, and there is ample parking next to the trailhead, which leaves directly from the parking lot. The trail that leaves from the parking lot is the Lower Creek Trail, and it starts out level before gaining some elevation at around the half mile mark.

Oaks near Santa Ysabel Creek, June 2012

The trail then descends for a little over a mile down to Santa Ysabel Creek. During this time, there are excellent views of the surrounding terrain, as well as great views of the many Engleman’s Oaks that are in the Preserve, along with some California Oaks as well. At Santa Ysabel Creek, the Lower Creek Trail comes to an end after 1.8 miles. If you are a novice hiker, or just out for a walk, this is a great spot to turn around for an easy 3.6 mile roundtrip hike; although it is worth noting that there is a bit of elevation gain coming back up the trail from Santa Ysabel Creek (which may or may not be present, as it is a seasonal water source).

For a little extra effort, however, you can cross the Creek and you can continue on to either the Ridge Trail or the High Creek Trail for some more stunning views. From this point, it does not matter which trail you take, as they both connect via the Coast to Crest Trail or the Shortcut Trail in a small loop. From Santa Ysabel Creek, the loop is 2.1 miles total distance. When I did this hike yesterday, I headed up the Ridge Creek Trail initially, which had the advantage of providing me with all of the elevation gain for the hike during the first half of the loop, and which meant that I had great views of the surrounding area, and had great views of the secret lake/pond which exists slightly to the west of the intersection of the High Creek and Coast to Crest trails on my descent from the Ridge Trail. The total distance for hiking all of the trails in the Santa Ysabel Open Space Preserve (West) from the trailhead to the High Creek/Ridge Trail/Coast to Crest Trail loop is 5.7 miles roundtrip, and in my opinion, is a great hike to get away from everything.

 Secret pond at the Ridge Trail/Coast to Crest Trail Junction

Tips: As I mentioned above, I did this hike yesterday morning. As I drove up to Santa Ysabel, I passed Iron Mountain and its parking lot at 11 a.m. (http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2012/2/11/iron-mountain.html). At that point, the parking lot was full, and there were a ton of cars on the side of the road. Look, I get it: Iron Mountain is a challenge, and is a great hike in its own respect. If you’ve never done it, and you want the satisfaction of attaining the summit, or you’re training for something, then, by all means, hike Iron Mountain. But, if you’re looking for actual quality time with Mother Nature, then I humbly suggest this network of trails (or the Sycamore Canyon/Gooden Ranch area: http://lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-fieldnotes/2011/11/30/goodan-ranchsycamore-canyon-preserve-cardiac-hill-to-ridge-t.html). When I arrived at Santa Ysabel (West), there were no cars in the parking lot, and I saw no one on the trail. Let me repeat that for a second: there was no one else there. Solitude doesn’t get much better than that!

Other things you should know: right now, its summertime, which means it’s warm. Be sure to bring plenty of water, as it can get warm, and the oaks don’t provide that much shade. Also, the trail from Santa Ysabel Creek to the Ridge Trail/High Creek Trail is somewhat steep, so be ready for a short but steep ascent. Do also note that the Preserve is home to cows. Do not chase the cows, they will chase you, and they can and will run much faster than you. My suggestion: if you leave the cows alone, they’ll leave you alone. It’s a happy arrangement for all parties. Other than that, the trails are well marked, and well maintained, and enjoy the silence and beauty of the region.

More Information: http://www.co.san-diego.ca.us/reusable_components/images/parks/doc/SantaYsabelWest_Trails.pdf, http://www.co.san-diego.ca.us/parks/openspace/Santa_Ysabel.html, http://www.100peaks.com/2011/01/16/santa-ysabel-open-space-preserve-west-no-peaks-but-a-beautiful-hike/, http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2010/apr/18/santa-ysabel-west-is-a-foothill-adventure/?page=1#article